You can simplify the formula to an approximation –  Cutting Speed x 4 divided by the diameter of the cutter in inches so your 1/2″ end mill at 100 ft per min would be 800 – just adjust it to suit the conditions/type of steel at the time

While you may have heard of a masonry drill bit, countersink drill bit, metal drill bit, HSS drill bit, SDS drill bit, you may not know what they all are and what are they intended for. Our drill bits guide will talk through different types of drill bits and how to select the right one for the job, whether it's putting up a shelf on the living room wall or hanging a mirror on bathroom tiles.

Whether you’re fitting hinges in a door frame or putting furniture together you’ll ideally used a wood drill bit. An auger bit has a corkscrew design that easily penetrates through wood leaving a neat finish on the edges of the hole

HSS bits are designed to withstand the heat generated from drilling into metal, although it’s still a good idea to use drilling fluid to maintain the drill bit’s longevity.

Good Evening Dougie – Do you have a copy of Machinery’s Hand book you can refer to? This shows how to calculate your cutting speed from the formula V=Vopt x Ff x Fd

Home › Forums › General Questions › End mill rpm This topic has 10 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 25 January 2024 at 19:46 by old mart. Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total) Author Posts 18 January 2024 at 18:18 #708269 Dougie SwanParticipant @dougieswan43463 Hi I have blunted more end Mills than I care to remember I’ve just bought a new 1/2″ dia hss one and wondered if anyone can give me a ballpark figure of the correct spindle rpm for this on En1a steel Thanks Dougie Advert 18 January 2024 at 18:44 #708270 JasonBModerator @jasonb If you took a rule of thumb of 100ft / min cutting speed for steel with HSS that put you at 770rpm. Depends a bit on the cut as to whether you are flattening the top of a part or milling the side, top you may want to go a bit slower and also reduce the feed a bit depending on stepover..   18 January 2024 at 19:00 #708275 Ramon WilsonParticipant @ramonwilson3 Hi, You may find this simple chart of use Dougie. I wrote it out when I first started training and has done me fine ever since   You can simplify the formula to an approximation –  Cutting Speed x 4 divided by the diameter of the cutter in inches so your 1/2″ end mill at 100 ft per min would be 800 – just adjust it to suit the conditions/type of steel at the time Tug PS I should have said this is for HSS – carbide could be up to 5 times more if the machine is capable 18 January 2024 at 19:10 #708284 Gary YeadonParticipant @garyyeadon51936 Good Evening Dougie – Do you have a copy of Machinery’s Hand book you can refer to? This shows how to calculate your cutting speed from the formula V=Vopt x Ff x Fd I can send you copies if needed. Regard   Gary 18 January 2024 at 19:25 #708295 duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1 Make sure you keep the tooth load up, feeding too slow causes the cutter to rub and go blunt very quickly Tubal Cain Workshop Handbook has useful info 18 January 2024 at 19:54 #708303 JasonBModerator @jasonb If its HSS coated with something like TiAIN then you can run faster, say 150ft/min plus which is 1200rpm Here is a 10mm at nearer 180ft/min, 10mm vertical DOC x 0.5mm horizontal DOC. 18 January 2024 at 20:18 #708311 Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370 If you have a table of rpm for drills then the same rpm can be used for mills of equal diameter as well. As Duncan says above not cutting fast enough will quickly overheat and blunt the edges. You should be getting chips coming off as waste, if it is very fine slivers or dust then you are feeding too slowly. Martin C 25 January 2024 at 10:25 #709931 Nigel McBurney 1Participant @nigelmcburney1 The speed /feeds recomended above ,are correct,but they are based on industrial use,with a good rigid machine and no doubt assume pumped suply of soluble oil, you do not state your machine,a lightweight hobby machine can be a bit light on spindle rigity so try reducing the speed down to 70/80 ft per min with sufficient feed to avoid rubbing,and decent tool lubrication, reducing speed does not harm HSS ,it will increase tool life,the job takes longer ,so what its a hobby not a production line. 25 January 2024 at 14:29 #709955 Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1 The ‘Little machine shop’ website has a useful speeds/feeds calculator. Tony 25 January 2024 at 15:21 #709963 JasonBModerator @jasonb The only downside with reducing cutting speed on a benchtop hobby machine is you loose some grunt from the motor if it’s an electronic variable speed. I tend to favour upping the spindle speed, keep the same modest chip load which therefore needs an increase in feed rate but reduce DOC if rigidity is a problem. 70ft/min on a 1/2″ cutter could be 20 to 25% motor speed so not where it is going to be putting out it’s full potential 25 January 2024 at 19:46 #710038 old martParticipant @oldmart I am afraid to use HSS endmills on steel and always use solid carbide or shell mills with carbide inserts if appropriate. The HSS are kept for aluminium or the finishing cuts on steel. Not being able to sharpen HSS is the main reason for keeping them for best. Used solid carbides sometimes com up on ebay and I have got some bargains, and reground ones are usually better value for home use especially if they are slightly undersize. Lubricant of some type should always be used with HSS to prolong the life and slower speeds are safer. Solid carbide always gets max rpm when I use it as manual mills cannot get anywhere near the speed ideal for this type of tooling. Author Posts Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total) Please log in to reply to this topic. Registering is free and easy using the links on the menu at the top of this page.

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My mini lathe won’t latch on Warco mill lubrication Lathe vibration in workshop Milling Cutter insert radius Clamp /Latch for screw on chucks. Renishaw touch probe bits Mounting boring bar in the lathe Diesel Thiel Nassovia vertical metal saw Mini Mill Switch Controller Help Please

If you are looking to anchor a wall plug they are colour coded so you can use this as a general guide to work out what size bit you will need:

Top Tip: when working on tiles place a piece of tape over where you plan to drill to stop the drill bit tip from slipping when you start drilling.

One of the main considerations when it comes to selecting the right drill bit is knowing what surface material you are drilling into. You can buy multi-purpose drill bits that can handle a variety of substances, however the quality will diminish more quickly than those designed to tackle specific tasks such as drilling into bricks. Here we look at what drill bit is right for different material types.

Tile drill bits need to have a strong carbide tip to penetrate the hard surface and prevent cracking or chipping. They can often be used to drill into glass too, but make sure to check this before you buy. Tile drill bits are often more expensive than non-specialist bits as they feature a more durable tungsten carbide tip.

With Summer bowing out and Autumn on it's way, your gardening jobs are ready to change again to adapt to the upcoming cooler weather. Here are some gardening jobs you can get on with in September.

If you are looking to create bigger holes for cabling or pipes you will need a specialist drill bit called a hole saw. Be sure to check the description carefully to see which materials the hole cutter can tackle.

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I’ve just bought a new 1/2″ dia hss one and wondered if anyone can give me a ballpark figure of the correct spindle rpm for this on En1a steel

You’ll need to use a HSS drill bit with a cone shaped tip to drill into metal whether its aluminium, copper or brass. A cobalt drill bit will be needed for drilling through tough stainless steel.

Cat is a member of the E-commerce team and is passionate about all things product, from power tools and TVs to cushions and curtains. She enjoys tackling basic DIY tasks at home and has taken on jobs such as stripping wallpaper, painting rooms, and upcycling furniture.

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The speed /feeds recomended above ,are correct,but they are based on industrial use,with a good rigid machine and no doubt assume pumped suply of soluble oil, you do not state your machine,a lightweight hobby machine can be a bit light on spindle rigity so try reducing the speed down to 70/80 ft per min with sufficient feed to avoid rubbing,and decent tool lubrication, reducing speed does not harm HSS ,it will increase tool life,the job takes longer ,so what its a hobby not a production line.

Lubricant of some type should always be used with HSS to prolong the life and slower speeds are safer. Solid carbide always gets max rpm when I use it as manual mills cannot get anywhere near the speed ideal for this type of tooling.

Every DIYer needs essential power tools to see them through their home improvement projects. Here at HSS, we can help you put together the perfect toolbox so you'll have all the power tools you need.

You’ve finally got round to that DIY project you have been planning. You may already have your safety goggles on and a drill in your hand, but now you are questioning, “what drill bit do I need?”.

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When the inevitable British wet weather arrives and wreaks havoc on our gardens, our precious plants and flowers are going to need saving. Read more to find out how you can keep your garden protected in wet weather and keep it looking its best.

SDS, or slotted drive system, drill bits are specifically designed for SDS drills as they can be held securely in place during the hammer action. They are for heavy duty drilling so ideal for masonry.

After determining the material you will be drilling into you'll need to work out what size hole you need to make. Making sure to identify the right size drill bit will prevent any slippage when driving the bit or screw. You should look to use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the screw you intend to use, for example if you are using a 4.5mm screw then use a 4mm drill bit. You can use this quick video guide to picking the right drill bit size if you are not sure on the size of your screw.

A regular multi-surface or wood drill bit will work well on plasterboard. You shouldn’t use a masonry or metal drill bit as they are too powerful and will damage the plaster.

A drill bit that can tackle a material such as brick, stone or concrete needs to be tough. It also needs to be the right shape to prevent cracks and splits as you drill. A masonry drill bit is perfect for this, and is usually made from High Speed Steel, or HSS, with an incredibly tough carbide tip to allow it to penetrate with ease.

If a neat and tidy finish is important you may want to use a countersink drill bit that leaves the flat-head screw sitting flush with the wood.

Hi, You may find this simple chart of use Dougie. I wrote it out when I first started training and has done me fine ever since

I am afraid to use HSS endmills on steel and always use solid carbide or shell mills with carbide inserts if appropriate. The HSS are kept for aluminium or the finishing cuts on steel. Not being able to sharpen HSS is the main reason for keeping them for best. Used solid carbides sometimes com up on ebay and I have got some bargains, and reground ones are usually better value for home use especially if they are slightly undersize.

Top Tip: Hold the wall plug next to the drill bit and mark it using some tape so you know how deep to drill into the wall.

The only downside with reducing cutting speed on a benchtop hobby machine is you loose some grunt from the motor if it’s an electronic variable speed. I tend to favour upping the spindle speed, keep the same modest chip load which therefore needs an increase in feed rate but reduce DOC if rigidity is a problem.

If you have a table of rpm for drills then the same rpm can be used for mills of equal diameter as well. As Duncan says above not cutting fast enough will quickly overheat and blunt the edges. You should be getting chips coming off as waste, if it is very fine slivers or dust then you are feeding too slowly.

Before you reach for the wrong one, it’s important to understand that the incorrect drill bit can be problematic. Not only can it lead to a job taking longer than necessary, but can also leave you with damaged materials, damaged tools, and it can be a safety hazard.

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Whenever working at a height, you're going to need some sort of access equipment, but should you choose a podium or a scaffold tower? In this guide, we will discuss whether a podium tower or scaffold tower is best for your job and what equipment we have to hire at HSS.

Depends a bit on the cut as to whether you are flattening the top of a part or milling the side, top you may want to go a bit slower and also reduce the feed a bit depending on stepover..