After walking through these steps, I went home and put them to the test. Admittedly, I did mess up the first time, but I realized I was using the wrong drill bit size (the packaging was long gone, so I wasn’t 100 percent sure!). Once I sized up, the anchor easily went in, and the rest of the process was super quick and easy.

There are different sizes of drill bits, anchors, and screws. Once you pick your anchor, you’ll need to choose a drill bit that’s the same size. You can compare the sizes by holding them up next to each other, or better yet: Check the packaging for exact sizing.

Often thicker, studier and longer than other types of drill bits, masonry drill bits have a slightly wider tip to help clear the path for the rest of the bit. In general, they’re best paired with a hammer drill, although depending on the surface you’re drilling into, and the size of the hole you wish to make, you might be able to get away with using a powerful standard drill. Note that, in our opinion, you’d be wise to spend extra on a drill bit from a known brand, since cheaper units can be prone to failure when the going gets tough.

A selection of commonly used sizes from a well-known brand and with an appealingly low price tag, there’s very little to quibble about when it comes to these DeWalt masonry drill bits. They’re designed to power through concrete, masonry, brick and both natural and artificial stone, featuring a rounded shaft that will fit the widest range of drills.

Below you’ll find a selection of the best drill bits available, covering SDS Plus, hex and round twist-drill options. Our picks take into consideration price, online review ratings, and the selection of bits offered in a set to ensure you’re able to choose the best masonry drill bit for you.

If you find that you didn’t leave enough room on the end of the screw to properly hang the frame, that’s ok. Another easy fix!

Hex drill sets suitable for masonry aren’t as common as those with a round shaft or SDS fitment, which probably goes some way to explain the popularity of this EZARC set. That, and the super-positive reviews it’s received from thousands of users.

The bits themselves feature a tungsten carbide tip and a fully hardened shaft, making them suitable for drilling concrete, tiles and even granite. The four-spline SDS Plus configuration means that the bits will fit securely into your hammer drill. Importantly, all products from UK Drills are manufactured to British ISO and DIN standards.

Hex drill bits are a little more unusual. The hexagonal shaft will lock into a drill more firmly, and will resist twisting in the chuck. That ensures minimal torque is lost between the drill and the drill bit. However, SDS (slotted drive shaft) bits offer all the benefits of hex, but are designed for hammer drills. A deep slot in the SDS drill bit’s shaft locks in the hammer drill’s chuck for a secure fit that won’t loosen. SDS Plus has a 10mm shank, while SDS Max measures 18mm.

Pro tip: “Don’t throw away the packaging, especially if you don’t quite know what you’re doing,” says Donahue. It has helpful information, including the size of the anchor and the amount of weight it can withstand.

Ideally, you’ll drill into a stud. To locate a stud, knock along the wall.  When you hear a change in sound, that’s the stud. You can also use a stud finder, which can be found cheaply wherever tools are sold. (We like this one.)

Also, I have to say, there is something about operating a power drill that just makes you feel like a boss. You’ve got to try it for yourself—I promise it’s not that hard. And I am telling the truth this time.

“There are different kinds of drivers, depending on what kind of screw you’re going to use.  I like using the square tips as opposed to the Phillips,” says Donahue. “I always also get magnetic drivers. You don’t have to have one. It just makes it easier.”

Now that we’re familiar with the power drill and understand why we should use a screw for a weighted frame, let’s look at what we’re going to drill into and then determine if we need an anchor.

Donahue warns to be especially careful of your second hand (the hand not holding the power drill) in this step. Make sure it is clear of your range of motion.

Use a pencil to mark the exact spot for your hole. Line up the drill with the mark, hold down the trigger, and drill forward into the wall.

Arriving in a touch plastic box that opens up as a stand, selecting and returning the drill bits into the casing is easy. The bits themselves are heat-treated to minimise the risk of breakage. Amazon reviewers awarded excellent scores for durability, sturdiness and longevity – which is exactly what you want from your masonry drill bits.

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Depending on what you’re hanging, you’ll leave a little bit of the screw out of the wall for that purpose. If you’re hanging a picture frame, a half-inch will do.

Place the screw onto the driver bit. It should fit perfectly. If not, look at your other driver bits and make sure you’re using the correct one.

Erbauer’s diamond-tipped core drill set is mighty in more ways than one. For that sizable price tag, you get three core drills in key sizes, all stored in a high-quality flight case. As well as the 38, 52 and 117mm core drills, it features a 200mm extension bar for deeper drilling, 115mm SDS adapter, 90mm hex adapter, an 8 x 205mm pilot drill, and a 75mm drift key to help remove the pilot bit from the pilot hole.

Regular masonry drills are available in diameters up to 25 or 30mm, but if you need to make a larger diameter hole – to run plumbing pipes through walls, for example – then you’ll need a masonry core drill bit. These large, hollow, cylinder-shaped bits have diamond-tipped teeth that effectively cut a circle in your masonry. Once you’ve drilled through, you’ll be left with the waste material inside the core bit. The beauty of core bits is that you’re left with a perfect hole, ensuring a snug fit.

The majority of masonry drill bits are made from tungsten carbide, a tungsten-carbon compound that resists abrasion well, and can withstand the high temperatures generated from drilling brick or concrete. Diamond-tipped bits are also available, but are usually way in excess of what a DIYer will need, both in terms of cost and specifications – although they’re the preferred choice for core drill bits.

First, take out the drill bit by rotating the tip counter-clockwise. Then insert the driver bit—that’s the one that perfectly fits into your screw head—and turn clockwise to tighten until you hear the click.

There are five bits in the set, which come in two lengths – both of which are longer than is common at these diameters – and are stored in a plastic case. The tips are tungsten carbide, while the drill bit is made from hardened steel and features U-shaped flutes that are designed to efficiently sweep out debris from the drill hole.

On your drill, there are different numbered settings for your speed and torque adjustment. These control how fast the drill spins and how much power is behind it.

Short answer: no. The most common kind of drill bits have a round shaft, and are suitable for the most popular drills; the kind of multipurpose drill that you’re already likely to have. They’re perfectly suitable for light to moderate work, and should be up to the job of drilling through most masonry.

Insert the drill bit, and then turn the tip clockwise until it grabs hold of the drill bit. You’ll usually hear a click when this happens.

“I think everybody, no matter what their skill level is, has the ability to use one of these,” says Donahue. “It’s not scary. The worst thing you can do is put a hole in the wall that you’ll just have to spackle over.”

If your drill is cordless, you’ll need to charge the battery before you get started. There’s a pinch button on the battery that allows it to slide on and off the charger in the same way it slides on and off the power drill. It takes about 20 minutes to charge fully.

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And yes, I have tried to use my power drill, but I always seem to end up with multiple holes in the wall or with a shelf falling down, and it just seems easier to pay someone else to do it.

On the front tip of your drill, you’ll see where you can turn it counter-clockwise to open it up or clockwise to tighten it. The chucks inside the drill will get closer together, or they will separate, depending on which way you turn it.

Proving that a good set of SDS Plus drill bits needn’t cost the earth is this set from Wigan-based UK Drills. The SDS Plus set includes seven bits in five diameters and two lengths, presented in a robust metal case – which should shrug off damage better than the brittle plastic alternatives.

On the sides of the drill, you’ll see a button. Clicking it to one side reverses the spin on the drill while clicking it to the other drills forward. “Safety/off” is when the button is in the middle.

“Legally, there’s supposed to be a stud every 16 inches, but in New York, I’ve found that not to be the case,” says Donahue. “Some walls are just sheetrock or drywall, and you can’t just put a screw into it. It’ll rip right out.” If that’s the case, you’ll need to use an anchor.

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Place in the anchor in the hole. There should be a little tension, so you’ll want to tap it into the hole with your hammer.

Suitable for wet and dry cutting through a variety of materials, the larger core drill bit is ideal for soil pipe and boiler flues, and the smaller pairing for 32mm pipe and 42mm waste pipes. This is a high-quality set that’s well-suited to any kind of major plumbing or electrical jobs.

Fortunately, masonry drill bits that can tackle these types of jobs do exist, such as this 260mm-long drill bit from DeWalt. Featuring a two-cutter carbide head with individual cutting tips at 140 degrees for more efficient drilling, this lengthy drill bit has a hardened steel body to reduce the likelihood of breakage. Reviewers were impressed by the quality on offer here, especially for the price.

My dad thinks I did all of this handiwork with the power drill he bought me, but I can’t bear to tell him that I actually have no idea how to use the thing. I’ve been hiring people for years to hang things in my apartment while the power drill collects dust somewhere under my bed.

The blinds in my room? Sure, I hung them. The shelves in the kitchen? Of course I put those up. The gallery wall in the hallway? Yes, that was definitely my doing.

When it comes to drill bits, all things aren’t equal. Made from a variety of materials and designed to drill through different surfaces, masonry drill bits need to be among the toughest of the bunch.

“You can always pull it in and out of the wall with the forward and backward movements. So if it’s a little too far in, you can pull it back,” says Donahue.

I sat down with Eli Donahue, a carpenter at Stand and Build in New York, and he walked me step by step through the process. And shocker: Once you know what you’re doing, it’s really not that hard.

If you’re drilling through two courses of brick or a single course of blockwork, you’ll need a drill that will be long enough to avoid going through the hassle of having to drill through the reverse side. You’ll need to factor in the width of the bricks or blocks, the mortar, internal plaster and any external wall coverings such as render, plus the size of any cavities, too.

If you find it’s too hard to tap the anchor in, your drill bit might have been too small for that particular anchor. Go back to step one and size up your drill bit. Not a big deal! Easy fix!

“It’s more secure,” Donahue says. “A screw has teeth. It bites into the material, and you can’t pull it out.” So if you’re hanging something with a little weight to it, a screw is the way to go.