New Mach-Blue Drill Bits Offer Head-Turning Performance and Eye-Catching

[Ruchir] doesn’t offer much in the way of instructions on the project’s Hackaday.io page, but once you print out all of the provided STLs and get your syringes ready to go, the rest should be fairly self explanatory. Personally we might have added a smooth steel rod in there to make sure the movement is nice and straight, but we can see the appeal of doing it with a printed part to keep things cheap.

When figuring out what size drill bit to use, determine the hole size and the type of metal you are working with. From there, consult a drill bit sizing chart to match your hole size with the proper bit.

Our team noted that customers who liked these bits were particularly impressed with their sharpness, which allowed them to slice through tough metals. Others also liked the high-quality, durable material, requiring minimal pressure on the drill. On the other hand, some customers found the packaging difficult to open, and others said the bits were overly fragile and broke easily.

This design is actually interesting for a number of reasons. The fact that it’s primarily 3D printed is a big one, though of course it’s not the first time we’ve seen that. We also like the minimal part count and low-cost, which is sure to appeal to those looking to produce PCBs on a budget. But the most impressive feature has to the hydraulic system [Ruchir] has come up with to actually do the drilling.

Initial Research: Our research process began by generating a list of drill bits for metal with a significant number of verified buyer reviews and an average customer review rating of 4–5 stars. We looked at positive and negative reviews alike, focusing on information from both satisfied and critical buyers.

Rather than pulling an arm to lower the bit towards the work piece, a system utilizing four syringes, some water, and a bit of tubing is used to pull the tool down. This might seem extravagant, but if you’ve got a lot of holes to drill, this design is really going to save your arms. This method should also give you more consistent and accurate results, as you won’t be putting any torque on the structure as you would with a manually operated press.

While some bits come pre-lubricated, you should always double-check to ensure they have lubricant or cutting fluid before using it. Lubrication dissipates heat, reduces friction, and prolongs the life of the bit.

Not all drill bits work on metal, and not all metal drill bits work on every type of metal. For example, if you’re operating on hardened steel, ensure the drill bit is strong enough to drill through that material. Some drill bits work best for aluminum, stainless steel, or rebar.

Final Product Selection: We then began fine-tuning our list by replacing older models with the latest versions and eliminating any discontinued models. From there, we compared each model’s feature set to create a final short list, selecting the best-in-class options for various buyers, budgets, and scenarios.

If you want to drill your own PCBs then use Proxxon FBS 240 with MB 140 stand. Time is worth far more than a proper tool.

To provide our readers with the best recommendations possible, we rely on several key sources of information to help guide our selection process.

Carbide bits are made for drilling nonferrous metals (metals that do not contain iron) and do not work on ferrous metals. They typically cost more than HSS drill bits but are particularly wear resistant. Carbide bits are heat resistant, work at fast drilling speeds, and are more accurate than HSS bits.

Cobalt drill bits are a good choice for ferrous metals. They have particularly high heat resistance and are harder than HSS bits. Cobalt bits are stronger than other bit types and can cut through even the toughest metals. However, they run at a high price point and are more brittle than other materials.

Drilling holes in metal can be a challenge for the inexperienced DIYer. However, if you follow some basic tips and use the proper drill bits, you should get the hang of it quickly. Here are the top things to remember when drilling holes in metal.

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High-speed steel (HSS) drill bits are hardwearing and heat resistant. They are strong, durable, and safe to operate at high speeds. However, HSS bits must be sharpened over time, as they can dull quickly.

While you don’t necessarily need to clean drill bits after every use, doing so will help keep them in the best possible condition. To clean a drill bit, wipe away excess residue and rub cutting fluid on it before putting it away.

Metal is difficult to work with if you don’t have the proper tools. When drilling for a metalworking project, specific drill bits are required to ensure you can fully cut through the material. While some drill bits that work on wood and plastic also work with soft metals, thicker metals require different drill bit types. To help you determine the best drill bit for your project, we put together this list of the best drill bits for metal on the market.

The whole idea isn’t bad though; if you move the primary actuators to a foot pedal (easy, since it’s just a tube connecting the syringes), and include a spring for the return stroke, the setup might actually work. The high friction of the syringes wouldn’t really be a problem either.

Looking for more ideas? If you’re after something a bit larger we might suggest this one made from PVC pipes, and this 3D printed desktop press would look good on anyone’s bench. Just don’t blame us if your arms get tired.

Sharpening drill bits will help extend their lives and is particularly important when attempting to drill through hard metals. Use a bench grinder or drill bit sharpener to sharpen the cutting edges when they begin to dull.

Many metal drill bits come with coatings like titanium nitride (TiN) or black oxide. These coatings help reduce friction, increase heat resistance, and extend the life of the drill bit.

The point angle refers to the angle formed between the two cutting edges of the drill bit where they meet at the tip. Most drill bits for metal have point angles of either 118 or 135 degrees. Bits with a 118-degree point angle are best for softer metals, while 135-degree bits work best for harder metals. Some drill bit sets come with both 118-degree bits and 135-degree bits.

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As discussed in this review, ensuring you’re using the right drill bit when drilling metal is essential. Attempting to drill through metal without an HSS, cobalt, or carbide bit will cause it to snap and cause injuries. Additionally, you should consult a speed chart to ensure you’re not drilling too fast or too slow, which could shorten the life of the bit.

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You should always wear eye protection, such as safety glasses, when drilling, regardless of material. Additionally, avoid wearing loose clothing, and consider also wearing ear protection.

Customers who liked this product were impressed with its wide range of bits, its ability to work on hard metals, such as titanium, and its longevity and durability. However, our team found some customers who said the bits were not well labeled and others who said the bits dulled quickly.

Too slow. You also eliminate the force feedback. The most difficult aspect of PCB drilling is actually parallax. If you have an etched center hole then the bit bends to center itself. Too far off and it breaks. No center, it’s hard to judge and you wind up with less breakage but inaccurate hole placement. The best solution I’ve found is having a camera underneath the board. No parallax. Cursor on the display shows exactly where the drill will emerge. You also need a higher RPM than most Dremel or equivalent tools can spin. 30K RPM is marginal. 50K or 100K is desirable. And spindle runout needs to be better than most Dremel-type tools can do. Not thousandths. A tenth or better.

Before drilling, ensure the piece of metal you’re using is fully secure in a clamp. For the drill, use a center punch to create a small indentation where you want to drill, which will help the drill stay on target and prevent wandering.

I like the idea of recreating this fully in metal, with a foot switch connected by tubing from the floor. If you did the cylinders right, it would be very very sensitive indeed. Perfect for very tiny sub 0.030″ diameter drills.

Expert Insights: To complement our in-house expertise, our team looked at reviews and videos from trusted publications and independent testers, spoke with subject matter experts, and drew insights from reader contributions.

It’s hydraulic–air bubbles can be clearly seen in the liquid filling the driven syringes. The delay is probably due to the unreinforced plastic lines and syringes expanding/compressing.

Metal drill bits typically have rounded, no-spin, or hex shanks. When determining what shank design to get, look for one that fits your drill’s chuck size. No-spin bits have a fluted shank design and help keep the bit secure when drilling, while hex shanks have six sides that help keep the bit steady.

We found that customers who gave these drill bits a positive review liked that they were durable and made from high-quality materials. Others were impressed with the round case. On the other hand, customers with less positive things to say about these drill bits found that they dulled quicker than expected. Others said that the markings were difficult to understand.

Twist bits, or HHS bits, are a common drill bit type that can work with various materials, including metal, wood, and plastic. However, finding an HSS or cobalt twist bit is essential, as they are designed to withstand the heat generated during metal drilling.

I liked the old Dremel drill press better. No longer made. The table moves up and down. The spindle is stationary. Your hands are in a better position. Tool was supported better. Couple that approach with a camera and a sliding table that locks as soon as you start drilling.

When buying a drill bit specifically for metal, first ensure that that bit is designed for metal and won’t heat up and snap when drilled through the material. Take the following additional factors into consideration before deciding which bit is best for your DIY project:

I kind of like the idea of pneumatic over hydraulic, with the right syringes you could probably tune it to not exert too much force on the PCB (at the expense of feel).

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It looks like cool project. Not sure if its practical though. Instead of a lever, you have to pull the side drawer/panel?

Great idea, too bad so many people in these comments try to diminish it, clearly the whole point of it is to be cheap and easy to make, im sure all of you have highly complex fully automated pick and place machines in your homes, but this guy doesnt, calm down…

When you turn the drill on, make sure it is fully secure in your hand and apply consistent but gentle pressure. Excessive force could cause the bit to break or could cause overheating. A slow and steady feed will prevent the bit from binding or catching.

If you’re making your own PCBs for through-hole projects at home, getting the board etched is only half the battle; you’ve still got to drill all those little holes. It’s a tedious process, and if you’ve got a lot of them, doing them freehand with a drill just isn’t going to cut it. Which is why [Ruchir Chauhan] built this tiny 3D printed drill press.

Once we conclude our research, we craft a comprehensive, user-friendly article of recommended products and additional information to help our readers make the right purchase.

This set was popular among reviewers for its durable design, clear markings, and ability to work on various metals. On the other hand, some customers felt these bits were duller than expected, while others were disappointed that these bits did not come in a plastic case.

With the delay in the video between moving the arm and the press moving, I’m pretty sure the one being shown off is pneumatic. [Ruchir Chauhan] calls it Hydraulic, but on the build page says it can be pneumatic or hydraulic.

Yeah either that or it needs bolting to the desk – though I’m not sure the idea is sound either – too much mechanical advantage and spring in the system means you are bound to break drill bits (as you have less precise tactile feedback) and you can’t peck easily either.. because its aiming so squarely at PCB’s which are pretty easy to drill perhaps it won’t break bits often, but even then that activation method seems awkward as anything – a pedal as you suggest would be much better and leave both hands free to position the PCB.

Customers who gave this product a positive review liked that it was durable and long lasting. They also complimented these bits’ excellent value and ability to work on stainless steel. However, we also noted some customers who said that these bits broke when they applied pressure, and others claimed that they seemed duller than other bits they had used.

Having to hold both the whole thing and the PCB steady with one hand, while pulling on the awkward plate with the other, trying not to nudge the PCB while drilling (which would definitely break the drill bit) seems highly impractical. Also, there seems to be very little space for the PCB.

The micro 0.01″ diameter carbide twist drills for circuit boards I have snap at the slightest excessive pressure even on my watchmaker’s finger sensitive drill press.

Yes- you are absolutely correct that this method isolates the feel of the drill from the operator which is very critical on very small drills.