90° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.394" (10.0mm) • Positive axial rake, positive radial rake • 35-degree rhombic inserts with two different nose radius options • High polish for excellent surface finish and reduced built-up edges • Large chipbreaker grooves for controlled chip evacuation • Low cutting forces due to the positive cutting edge

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                             Past Builds:  La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

90° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.571" (14.5mm) • Negative axial rake, positive radial rake • 90-degree shoulder mill with rectangle insert • Double-sided, thick inserts for high stability and deeper cuts

Second, if you use lard or bacon fat be sure to clean it up really well.  When it starts to go rancid it can really stink up a place.

If nothing is use copper will become hot  and sticky very fast and it will be difficult to make clean cuts but this is for large diameters only.

45° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.275" (7.0mm) • Negative axial rake, positive radial rake • Double-sided, extra-thick insert with 8 cutting edges • Large rake angle reduces cutting forces • Wiper insert geometry for good surface quality

Lard oil is pressed from lard. It has been the go to cutting fluid for copper for years beyond count. It sets up just below room temp so when the shop is cold in the winter it has to be warmed to liquify it. It will also get rancid, so keep cold when not in use. There are other fluids that work almost as well for copper, just don’t use anything with sulfur in it. It will turn everything black.

Tallow historically was more commonly used as a lubricant for steam engines than it probably was for candles. It was one of the few lubricants that handled the steam and heat well.

90° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.217" (5.5mm) • Superior perpendicularity and minimized cutting loads • Optimized for high-quality surface finishes • 3-face clamping for stable operation in tough conditions • Suitable for plunge milling

In the old time, they were using all kinds of grease and fluids. These old tables that we see were made for LARGE parts turning not really for Hobby jobs.

There are several variables that go into choosing the correct insert for your milling operations: the specific cutter body being used (milling cutter series), the type of machining operation (toolpath type), the cutting-edge angle (lead angle), the depth of cut, the materials being cut, and more. Use the filters on the left-hand side below to narrow down your choices, and find the inserts you need.

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                             Past Builds:  La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section

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Having turned copper I have found the most effective way to get a good clean cut leaving a nice finish is with Kroil used by gun gun users and as an anti seize medium.

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45° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.236" (6.0mm) • Negative axial rake, positive radial rake • Double-sided, extra-thick insert with 8 cutting edges • Low cutting loads and excellent smooth cutting

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For small diameters, it is not really necessary. The most difficult part I turned is a 2 inches rod of copper. Cutting fluid was a necessity to keep the part cool.I guess that if we put the part in the cooler it would help to begin the turning.

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Thanks Keith. I picked up the copper today and hope to start this weekend. All my cutters for the lathe are HSS.   I do have some cutting oil.  I wonder what "lard oil" is?  Lard?

For milling, I always use cutting fluid, mainly to preserve the cutters life and over heating both the part and the cutter.

45° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.138" (3.5mm) • Positive axial rake, positive radial rake • 45-degree cutting edge • Inserts have 8 cutting edges • Screw clamping

This price includes shipping cost, export and import duties, insurance, and any other expenses incurred during shipping to a location in France agreed with you as a buyer. No other mandatory costs can be added to the delivery of a Haas CNC Product.

90° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.217" (5.5mm) • Superior perpendicularity and minimized cutting loads • Optimized for high-quality surface finishes • High rake angle lowers cutting loads and minimizes burrs • High-speed and high-feed capability imrpove productivity

Today, it is a lot easier, Only one solution for every thing. It look like oil, we add water to it and it turns white just like milk.I also tried other kind which turned blue.

45° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.236" (6.0mm) • Positive axial rake, positive radial rake • Large rake angle for faster, easier cutting • Inserts with 4 cutting edges

Round edge | D.O.C. max. 0.236" (6.0mm) • Superior perpendicularity and minimized cutting loads • Optimized for high-quality surface finishes • High rake angle lowers cutting loads and minimizes burrs • High-speed and high-feed capability improve productivity

The same applies to drilling: oil for steel and sometimes aluminium, when holes are deep; nothing for brass; copper may need a drop of oil.

Bacon Fat is Bacon Fat, not Lard, I save it for flavor when cooking. Lard is rendered from raw pork fat, not cured like bacon or Ham. Lard is rendered from the trimmings over low heat until a liquid, then filtered through layers of cheese cloth into storage container and allowed to cool and solidify, it will be white when set up. Straining the fat through cheese cloth removes any solids that will cause the Lard to go rancid and can be kept in a cool place for a very long time before use, it will be free of any salts, sugars and peppers used in curing meat.

I use cutting oil for all my machining. There are various types for different metals, but the regular ones for steel work, if that is all you have. I never turned copper, so I do not know if there is s specific one for it.

I read someplace that Bacon fat could be used as a lubricant for working on non-ferrous metals.  As I had just cooked a pound of Bacon I had a jar of fat cooling off.  Took a very small bottle lid of it to the shop and it worked quite well when I was drilling with a #74 bit pretty deep.  I was concerned about the depth w/o lubricant and the Bacon fat worked quite well - didn't break a drill bit and got 6 holes done.  A toothpick dipped into the fat transferred the fat to the drill bit.

Mark I typed turning copper on a lathe in YouTube and watched a couple of videos of turning copper and the operator didn't use cutting oil or coolant.

15° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.071" (1.8mm) • 15-degree high feed mill • Inserts with 4 cutting edges • Ramping possible • Double clamping system for inserts

17.23° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.07" (1.8mm) • Negative axial rake, negative radial rake • Positive rake angle for lower cutting forces • Strong vibration and impact resistance • Large chip pocket for smoother chip evacuation

There are some materials, copper may be one of them, that tend to stick on the top-edge of the cutting tool. In this case a bit of lubricant might help. Or a steeper top-rake of the tool.

45° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.217" (5.5mm) • Negative axial rake, positive radial rake • Double-sided inserts with 16 cutting edges • Special geometry for consistent cutting and long life • Strong insert and powerful clamping

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That seems to be my normal mode of operation.  Test, test, test, and maybe I get what I want.  If not, change parameters and try again.

90° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.67" (17.0mm) • Designed for high-speed machining of aluminum • Buffed surface for smooth chip evacuation and reduced BUE • High rake angle for good surface finish and lower cutting loads • For square shoulder milling and curved surface machining

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

90° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.303" (7.7mm) • 90-degree shoulder mill • Double-sided, thick insert for high stability and deeper cuts • Inserts with 6 cutting edges

Jack  "No one is as smart as all of us" -  Is ón cheann a thagann an cheird  The craft comes from the head --------------------------------------------- Current build: US Constellation

90° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.591" (15.0mm) • Positive axial rake, positive radial rake • Sharp cutting edge geometry, and robust inserts • First choice for large cutting depths with high feedrates • Specially designed cutting edge, for high-quality shoulder milling

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

A would go with Gaetan: I rarely, if ever, use any lubricant on my lathes - there are not set up for using coolants anyway. Yes, pieces and tools become warm sometimes, but if they get so hot that the workpiece or tool gets damaged, you are doing something wrong, i.e. perhaps the tool is blunt. In the model workshop one rarely takes off so much metal that heat generation is a problem.

90° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.649" (16.5mm) • Superior perpendicularity and minimized cutting loads • Optimized for high-quality surface finishes • High rake angle lowers cutting loads and minimizes burrs • High-speed and high-feed capability improve productivity

That's what I thought... though it could be beef (from hamburger, etc.).  Now I know.   As far as cleanup.... there various solvents including dish soap.  I note that lard can be bought at the local grocers.   I'll try the cutting oil first.

I'm not sure what grade this copper is.  I bought it at the local metal yard (1 foot long by 3/8" for $3) which was the smallest diameter they had.

When working to close tolerances, I'd hesitate to put a work piece in the freezer to "cool it down" before turning. Temperature dictates the size of the work piece.  When a "frozen" work piece warms back up, it will be larger than when it was cold.

I only have sewing-machine oil and WD40 (or similar) in my workshop. I don't mess around with the animal fats that old-time machinist used.

Depth of Cut: The maximum depth of cut (DOC) for a specific insert. The maximum DOC is affected by many variables, and may not be achievable under all conditions.

You may have to try to optimise work-parameters for your special case, so be prepared that the first part may not turn out as desired.

90° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.63" (16.0mm) • Positive axial rake, negative radial rake • 3D helical cutting edge for lower cutting forces • Wiper geometry for high-quality surface finishes • Superior perpendicularity and minimized cutting loads

For drilling, especially deep holes, I always use cutting fluids for the same reasons. Also it is much easier to do the job with fluids.

Material Type: Filter by primary workpiece material to find the inserts that are best suited for that specific material. You can also then filter by secondary workpiece material to find inserts that will cut multiple materials.

Milling Cutter Series: Filter by the Haas Milling Cutter Series to find all the inserts available for that specific cutter. If you don’t know the cutter series (or have a non-Haas cutter body), you can also filter by insert style (shape), or ANSI designation.

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)

Mark - copper can be quite tricky - it work hardens quite quickly and pick up on the tips of tools can give a poor finish. Because it is very soft it can also be prone to snatching at the tool. My advice would be to use HSS tools which are sharpened to good edge. My preference is to use cutting oil as i think it lessens the tendency for pick up and snatching - as a result gives a better  finish.

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)

Lard oil is the clear, colourless oil pressed from pure lard after it has been crystallized, or grained, at 7° C (45° F). It is used as a lubricant, in cutting oils, and in soap manufacture. ... Lard oil has excellent lubricating qualities, but it tends to become rancid

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                             Past Builds:  La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section

Just a quick question as I got mixed answers from the place I'll be buying some copper rod to make kettles for my ship's stove.  When turning on a lathe or drilling/machining, should I use cutting oil?  Or not use anything?  I've done brass without oil, I've never done copper.

On the stripe of oil on the wall behind the lathe. I bought a large piece of formica and leaned it behind my lathe, resting the bottom inside the chip pan.  This kept the residue from the wall. Eventually a little got on the ceiling but that was over a few years.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Lard - I remember as a kid my Mom collected ALL the meat fat in empty metal coffee cans then put them once a week on the front porch stoop for some guy in a truck to collect the "lard" so they could make soap, lard, grease, and other things for the war effort - that's WW II - yes, I am that old.

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                             Past Builds:  La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section

90° cutting edge | D.O.C. max. 0.059/0.098" (1.5/2.5mm) • Double-sided inserts with 4 cutting edges • Unique geometry for lower cutting loads and longer life  • High rake angle with strong, sharp cutting edges • Designed for high-efficiency plunge milling

When milling with a multi-tooth cutter, the situation is different. There you need a lubricant, at least for steel, and particularly when milling or sawing slots, as the mill or saw might get jammed otherwise in the slot. A blast with WD40 or similar also clears out chips.

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                             Past Builds:  La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section

To be honest, I never use any cutting fluids for turning model parts on the lathe. As pointed out by others, sharp tools are essential to avoid work-hardening. If any material starts to build up on the cutting edge, stop and remove the material or you may ruin your surfaces. Otherwise, I would not be too concerned about working with copper. You may have to try to optimise work-parameters for your special case, so be prepared that the first part may not turn out as desired.

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Two things.  First, what type of copper are you turning?  There are many grades and alloys of copper and they have different properties.

Curved edge | D.O.C. max. 0.039" (1.0mm) • Low entering angle for high feedrates • High cost-efficiency, with 4-corner inserts • Positive rake angle for lower cutting forces • Wide flank face for rigidity and strong clamping

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)

A tool cutting a larger diameter work piece will heat up much faster than when reducing their respective diameters by the same amount because the tool has to remove a lot more material to turn a quarter inch off of a two inch diameter rod than off of a one inch diameter rod. When size matters, you can never have too much lubricant.