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The tool in the video is a "trim router". Basically exactly the same as a a regular router, but smaller and lighter. Less power means they can't remove much material on each pass, but the lighter weight gives the user much more control. They're easier to use.

Reverse fluteend mill

Premium quality high speed steel (HSS) micro drill bit set. Swivel Head Pin Vice holds bits from 0-.125" (0-3mm).

I wouldn't use the "plunge" feature in a router for a job like this. Lock it into the correct depth with test cuts on scrap timber. The less things that can move the better. Make sure the work piece is clamped to the table so the only thing that can move is the tool which I'd move nice and slowly (not too slow or you'll create excessive heat).

DowncutEnd MillAluminum

This is an investment! That being said, if you only doing one slab, I would recommend DIY build or having someone professionally flatten your project. I would hazard a guess that you would be saving for a fifth of the cost of this rig. I bought the dust shield with vacuum hose attachment and was disappointed on a few levels. Firstly, it's a gimmick that falls short of its intended purpose and although it may cut down a little of the waste being scattered in the shop, it does not work as advertised. Do your slab flattening outside or you'llbe vacuuming for days. Secondly the hose port fit is not standard for any shop vac, so you'll be needing some type of adapter. As for the router sled itself, the build is sturdy, and it does work as intended. However there is the minimal clearance issue. Even at its lowest setting, I still had to raise the work piece as the plunge depth of routers are limited. Also expect to clear debris (constantly) from wheel path as it collects and will hinder the smoorh and level tracking of the wheels Overall, it works. But I'm thinking I should have opted for the bearing rail system. I gave it 3 stars because that's where it falls in the overall rating. Average! These are my opinions from my experience. Your millage may vary. If I could send it back without the hassle. I probably would. I don't have the box, and the return policy says everything has to be in original unused condition, which is impossible after use.

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Downcut spiral tools are best used for thinner materials that will be pushed down into the machine bed rather than being lifted with an upcut spiral. This can be particularly useful when using vacuum hold down where maintaining the seal between the material and sacrificial bed is crucial. These tools are predominantly used when a high-quality cut finish is required on the top surface of cut parts.

End millfor HDPE

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PlasticEnd Mill

Apr 9, 2022 — But be vary, many of these flutes are a lot more difficult to play than a NAF. Basically, any type of recorder such as Native American flute, ...

EndMills

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Looks like I have to do some research on safely using 1/4in chamfer bits in holes. I bet I could even find a tool to cut and chamfer the holes in one go.

Endmills for wood

200726 — Carbide tool on aluminium -> Vc = 300 m/min or thereabouts. For 6mm (1/4") bit this is approx. 16000 rpm. Use alcohol-based cutting fluid.

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I found this older question that gets to the heart of what I want to do: clean up the internal top edges of cuts in decent quality plywood, but in my case I'm hoping for a mechanised solution for multiple smaller diameter holes for ease and consistency.

Unplugging the device from the power outlet while it is still turned on and then leave it like that for at least 5 minutes before you turn it back on.

I'm not keen on using my hard-start Craftsman non-plunge router for this. I mean, I could get a plunge accessory (maybe) but this looks like I ought to part with some money for a compact router to save some time. I may have another project coming up that'll be easier with a compact router, anyway.

Looks like a "roundover" bit to me. A chamfer bit would work fine though personally I think rounded will look nicer and be more durable (chamfered edges tend to chip or dent).

Does anyone have any good ideas for light chamfering the facing edges of lots of medium diameter holes in baltic birch veneer?

I saw on a YouTube video someone using what looks like a dedicated tool for this purpose, but I can't quite tell what it is. Maybe a small router, but I have no idea what tool would be mounted in it. I'm pretty sure I don't want to do this with my router, as I'm certain any bit I can get for that will start to climb-cut, and then there's me with fewer fingers again.

End MillRouter Bit

Even as much as I like the hand "bench dog hole chamfering tool" I see come up, I'm not that interested in getting a single-use tool (and having to have a set of them for different diameters) or putting my wrists through all that work.

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Only having used this tool a couple of times, I am completely satisfied with it's performance. I have used the bit to flush trim a few patterns in walnut and white oak. This bit moved right through the wood. The cut was very smooth. I am also happy that I will be able to turn / swap out the cutters.

CompressionEnd Mill

I had previously been doing all my slab flattening on a home made sled. It worked ok and it got the job done, but it had many limitations, some of which I didn't even realize until I started using the SpeTool sled. The first issue was that it had too much flex in the wood rails and would sag when I tried flatting slabs larger than about 20" wide. The second issue was the mess it made in the shop. It was actually so bad that I would have to use it outside. The biggest draw back however, wasn't realized until I started using the SpeTool sled. With the SpeTool sled I was able to work the router with the grain down the long side of the Slab This was something that I couldn't really do with my homemade sled. Working with the grain produces a smoother surface and is less work in my opinion. Then when you add in the dust collection, I was able to work in my shop again. Now I am not going to say you won't need to vacuum when you are done, but the mess is drastically less than with no dust collection. Also, the aluminum rails are much stiffer than my wood ones and don't flex nearly as much over larger spans. I would absolutely put this kit at the top of my list if I was setting a small garage shop up for slab flattening. Rob @ RM Woodcraft llc

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I have used the 18" bit more than most of my bits. Its great to use in cut outs in 1" thick material. The only problem I have had is breakage. 1 Was clearly my fault as I caught a nail on my spoil board, 1 was possibly my fault with the length of bit so long it was probably deflection. The last one broke up near the 1/4" shank ad I saw nor reason for that one. overall a very good bit!

I've got a project coming up that involves a lot of medium-small holes in several 4x8 sheets of 5/8ths baltic birch veneer. (I don't have the plans in front of me, but I recall that the holes are about 1 inch nominal or a little larger.) I think I have plan for making the holes: careful marking out of a grid, and then lots of forstner cuts with a jig. I'll have a sacrificial sheet of cheaper plywood underneath to minimize tear-out.

The holes are for dowels which, ideally, will slide in with a pretty tight interference fit. To make this slide easier (the idea is that the dowels can be moved) I'm thinking about chamfering the holes. I think this will look nicer, too.

Well, it looks like (surprise!) what I want is a plunge (or plunge-by-hand) router with a chamfering tool installed. In this example I found it's a trim or compact router.

How thin is the outer veneer on your plywood? Often the outer layer is nearly as thin as a sheet of paper which might not produce good results.