Kreg's Material Thickness Gauge allows you to easily determine material thickness (1/2 in., 3/4 in., 1-1/2 in.), and has a built-in hex wrench for tightening the stop collar. The stop collar window aligns with etched markings on the drill bit for easy setup.

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Blue-Kote™ Screws made by Kreg® feature three anti-corrosion layers, making them the perfect choice for a wide variety of indoor and outdoor projects. Blue-Kote™ Screws provide rust resistance up to 400% greater than zinc-plated screws and work with pressure-treated material.

A cutaway view of the Pockethole shows all the elements differently. At the base of the pocket, there’s a flat ledge that the Head of the screw will contact. The pilot hole continues almost—but not quite all the way—to the end of the board. It stops short for a good reason: To prevent the wood fibers from "blowing out" as the bit would exit the material. That way, there is nothing to interfere with this piece fitting tightly against the mating piece.

I am looking for the major and minor thread diameter for a relatively obscure thread: M31.5x1.5. Does this thread even have established major and minor ...

Pockethole Screws work well in traditional cabinetry using 3/4 in. to 1-1/4in. material and allow the user to create miter joints and piece joints quickly and easily without clamps.

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Use the chart above to select the right length of screws for your thickness and application. For exterior applications, you should use either Stainless Steel or the Corrosion Coated Screws. Stainless Steel is required when you are within 10 miles of the ocean or near a chlorine pool.

If you are joining two pieces of different thicknesses, use the thinner of the two thicknesses for your pocket holes. If you are using pocket holes to attach a table apron to the top, use the thickness of the apron, no matter which one is thinner, and use shorter screws.

PocketMax® screws are heat–treated making our screws tough enough to drive into Red Oak without a pilot hole (while we don't recommend that), yet tough enough to resist the forces trying to blow apart the driver bit recess as the screw is driven in, tough enough to resist breakage when a load is applied to the joint. They have an oversized (thickness, Undersized on diameter to prevent dragging on the walls of the pockethole) Fillister (sometimes called "Cheese") Head to minimize crushing in softwoods, extended unthreaded shank to avoid cross threading or board jacking, and hathe ve superior holding power to a washer head screw. Go into most hardware stores and home centers, and the screws you find will be poorly heat–treated or not heat–treated at all!

Tolerance Class Shaft : Select, a9, a10, a11, a12, a13, b8, b9, b10, b11, b12, b13 ... h6, h7, h8, h9, h10, h11, h12, h13, h14, h15, h16, h17, h18, js1, js2, js3 ...

Pocket–hole plugs are cut at an angle so that they sit perfectly flush on the top of the screw head when fully inserted. A small amount of plug will remain above flush and must be trimmed off with a hand saw or sanded.

When you drill using a Kreg® Pockethole Jig, the very tip of the Pockethole gets positioned roughly at the center of the material’s thickness. Centering the pockethole will ensure plenty of wood around the hole for maximum strength.

WARNING: Drilling, sawing, sanding, or machining wood products can expose you to wood dust, a substance known to the State of California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling wood dust or use a dust mask or other safeguards for personal protection. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/wood.

Stainless Steel provides the ultimate corrosion resistance for most woodworking projects. Although all products corrode sooner or later, stainless steel provides excellent protection. Since the carbon content of stainless is quite low, oxidation (rusting) is also quite low. However, the steel cannot adequately heat-treated because of the low carbon content. As a result, the screws are soft and break easily when used in wood applications where high levels of torque strength are required. They are softer than our hardened steel screws because stainless steel is not generally heat-treatable − the wire must be soft enough to be formed yet hard enough to provide the desired strength. Type 305 stainless steels are nickel-inherently nonmagnetic, and chromium austenitic grades of sess steels are not hardened by heat treatment and are inherently nonmagnetic. They provide excellent corrosion resistance and are suitable for many corrosive environments. Fasteners made from Type stainless steel comply with the 2012 and 2015 IBC and IRC.

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Eight face frames were constructed with pocket–hole joints using both standard washer–head screws (#6 x 1–1/2 in. single–roll screws with Type–17 auger point) and PocketMax pockethole screws. (#6 head–#7 deep coarse thread x 1–1/2 in. screws with Type–17 auger point). The average amount of force sustained before joint failure was 387.5 lbs. for the standard screws and 507.5 lbs. for the PocketMax screws.

NoCoRode™ corrosion resistance plating's we offer in manufacturer-conducted salt-spray testing. It has exceeded 1,800 hours in manufacturer-conducted salt-spray testing, making it almost 20 times more corrosion-resistant than standard yellow zinc plating. It works well with wit redwood outdoor world cedar, using ACQ pressure-treated wood. Use caution with redwood, Western red cedar, or similarly acidic steel woods − these tend to stain, sometimes even with stainless steel! And unlike the plating on hot-dipped galvanized screws, NoCoRode Plus doesn’t chip, and you won’t find the recesses full of plating material that makes the fasteners useless. Best of all, the plating is tan, so it "blends" with many pressure-treated materials.

Corded drills generate a faster bit speed than cordless ones. A dull bit can leave you with excessive tear-out around the pocket. Keeping a second bit on hand so you can change it out when the first begins to dull can give you a better-finished product.

While pockethole screws make a good, solid joint, adding glue will help create a stronger joint during any seasonal wood movement.

A drill bit with a 118° angle cuts more aggressively and is best used for cutting into soft materials such as wood. A drill bit with a 135° angle is better for ...

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The Type 17 point is not a thread style but can enhance the performance qualities of most thread styles used in the woodworking industry. A slot or notch is cut out at the point of the score, which acts like a–driving tip. The slot carves away the material, thus allowing it to self-drill itself in a pre-drilled hole of wood. It can often eliminate the need for a pre-drilled hole to relieve splitting. Type 17 point is excellent for hardwoods, softwoods, particleboard, and MDF. Type 17 points are commonly available today in our Deep Thread style and are quickly becoming the fastener of choice for the woodworking professional. There are many advantages to the Type 17 point, but seeing the slot into the shank and threads is slow, and the additional expense must be compared to the benefits.

With joints that have boards of two different thicknesses edge–to–edge or end–to–edge, you want to set your jig to drill the pocket–hole depth for the thinner of the two board. If you are joining boards end–to–face or edge–to–face, such as in a table apron to the top, set the depth for the thickness of the board with the pockets, regardless of which is thinner, and then use a shorter screw if necessary.

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Before drilling, spray the bit with a dry lubricant to reduce drilling friction and prolong sharpness. Repeat after every 20 or so holes.

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If your pockethole is too shallow, the threads will not fully exit the piece you are trying to join (Board Jacking), and the joint will not pull tight without overdriving your screw. If it's too deep, the material left to hold the joint together will not be sufficient for a long-lasting joint. For the strongest joints, set the stop collar according to your jig's instructions. The pilot point should stop 1/8 in. from the work piece's end or edge. Check the Jig Settings each time to avoid drilling to the correct depth for the current project.

The built-in tool magazin accommodates up to 24 tools with direct shaft clamping. A tool length sensor (14 mm/0,5 inch) for automatic tool length check is ...

The Pockethole makes this joint possible, but it’s the Pocket-Hole Screw that pulls it all together. As you drive the screw in, the pocket and pilot hole guide the screw precisely while the screw’s self-tapping tip drills its hole into the mating piece. That means you do not have to drill into both pieces, and you will get great holding power without splitting or stripping the wood.

General machining guidelines are like 316, with about 20% lower machinability and more attention to clamping stability. Commercially, they are cheaper than ...

Drill about halfway and pull the bit out to clear the chips. Clearing the chips often reduces friction and a bit dulling. If possible, hook up a dust/chip collection to clean the work area.

Washer Head: An oversize washer is formed as part of the Head itself, providing a larger bearing area, which is especially useful when fastening soft materials. The flat bearing surface under the Head prevents the screw from being countersunk.

Dry to the touch lubricant, or "Dry Lube" that offers a reduction in driving torque and a finish that does not interfere with dust collection systems or bleed during, the staining process of the wood. More economical than plated parts, they are popular among professional woodworkers. They are a brownish color that allows them to blend well into wood.

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Clamping across the joint helps pull it together and hold it in the correct placement while you drive your screws. Using a drill with a clutch instead of an Impact Driver is best. You can't see in the hole to see when the Head is seated. The Impact Driver can drive the screw and break the shoulder of the pockethole.

Clear Zinc The silver appearance of Clear Zinc has been around for many years and remains very popular. It also provides a moderate level of rust protection. Since this is a true electroplating, the zinc coating is pm1 of the surface of the steel and is very durable. Other chemicals can be added to the process, and the depth of the coating can be controlled.

Our PocketMax® screws are modern production screws and have a Deep Thread design. The primary advantage of the Deep Thread design was its wide, deeply spaced thread design. A 15° angle in conjunction with a 30° trailing edge provided a thread surface engagement nearly perpendicular to the screw axis resulting in increased holding power. The sharp thread angle that cut into the material greatly reduced cracking, splitting, and bursting. Its smaller body diameter or minor diameter reduced driving torque while causing the least material distortion. Screws thread design features cutters built right into the thread design. The Type 17 point thread design offers greater holding power by displacing less material.

One of the most common problems woodworkers face is constructing a durable. Tight, beveled joint. Using normal mitering techniques, if the joint is tight, the "wire" edge that results is vulnerable to splintering and chipping. The solution is to move the corner away from the joint! Pocket–hole joinery makes this easy, as shown.

202345 — 135-140 is the new 118. If you need to spot, use a 142° spot drill, to center the point without beating up the edges. Chamfer the hole after.

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Pocket-hole joinery is popular because it is a fast, strong, easily adaptable, and precise assembly method. Joints are as strong as mortise-and-tenon joints and can be made in a fraction of the time. Kreg's Award-winning Jigs® use a 3/8 in. counterbore bit with an 11/64 in. pilot to drill a 15° angle into the first piece. With the joint tightly clamped, a special self-drilling pocket-hole screw is placed in the pocket and driven tight to complete the joint. It is a simple joint that almost anyone can do with simple steps.

First, lay out your layout before drilling any holes. With everything laid out, you can decide the best face to drill your holes. Mark them and add any lies to line up your pieces. If they are in the rails, they will line up with styles. Once everything is laid out, drill your holes and start your assembly. Make sure that your holes are drilled in orientation so that the screws will be installed into the face grain, not into the end grain. Screwing in to end grain leads to weak joints.

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A Fillister (also called a Flat Top Pan or sometimes a Cheese Head) or Washer Head Screw with a #2 Robertson® Square Recess and extended unthreaded shank enables the screw to draw the two members of the joint tight. The Robertson® Recess was first introduced to the USA in 1957. Since then, woodworkers worldwide know the benefits of Square Drive Screws. It has a more positive fit that reduces "cam out" and requires only four foot-pounds of pressure to keep the bit engaged. Square recess drivers last longer than most other recess driver types, and only two driver sizes are required to fit the most common Square Drive Screw sizes.

Pocket-hole screws are different from other woodworking screws in that they feature an auger point (Type 17) to prevent raising a chip between the two parts during assembly, ensuring a tight joint. A Fillister or Washer Head with a #2 Square recess and extended unthreaded shank allows the screw to pull both sides tightly together. Pockethole screws, with their Optimized Thread Length design, cross the joint on the centerline for strength, and the threads do not cross the joint, eliminating the possibility of board jacking.

Fillister Head: Is similar to a Pan head, making side height. The higher head profile provides a deep recess, making this head style easier to drive. These screws are known for their high strength, accuracy, quality, and durability. Mainly found in Pocket-Hole Screws. In Pockethole screws, the Head is usually undersized by one size to prevent the Head from scraping the walls of the Pockethole. Heads the same size ad the pockethole could cause the screw to not go in straight and create a weak joint.

If your joints are 90° or any other angle, ensure they are clean and accurate. It will show in your finished product if you do not have accurate cuts. Check the accuracy of any saws you will use to make your cuts and tune it up if necessary before you start your first cut.

As you drill, the stepped drill bit enters the wood at a 15° angle. That is what creates the distinctive oval shape. The Pocket-Hole-Jig ensures this angle is consistent and the bit is steady as you work, making drilling an angled hole foolproof.

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Meters Per Minute (MPM) — The cutting speed of the end mill. This system is used in all countries that use the Metric system. MPM represents the rate of the ...

Do a dry fit, ensuring you have all the clamps you need and everything is in place before applying any glue. If the final project is outdoors, use an outdoor glue. Check out our Titebond Glue Comparison Page.

Now that you have cut your pieces and laid out your pieces to check the joint fit, plan your work. Know where you will drill your holes and mark them on the pieces. When determining where to drill your holes, avoid drilling into the end grain because it's the weakest holding of the screws. Instead, drill into the side grain to give you maximum holding power. Marking your drilling on the back side of the face and using that to drill your holes will help to prevent accidentally drilling into the best face.

Choosing the right screw, just like drilling the right size and depth hole, makes your joint strong. Coarse–threaded pocket screws provide a hold better in softer woods, such as pine, cedar, and poplar, as well as plywood, using fine–threaded screws for hardwoods. Our Super Eight Threaded PocketMax Screws work well in MDF, OSB, and Particle Board. Choose the length based on the workpiece thickness, as shown in the chart to the right.

Can I use Drywall Screws for Pocket–Hole Screws? No, never use drywall screws in the place of pocket-hole screws. "Drywall" screws are designed to penetrate a layer of powdery drywall and soft, wooden, or thin metal studs. They have threads to the lower side of the Bugle Head (because it looks like the "Bell" of a Bugle) and will not pull the joint tight. In addition, they are hardened and have a thinner shank than pockethole screws that can and will easily break while driving in a non–drywall application. Their Bugle Head can split the bottoms of the pocket shoulders, ruining your joint.

If you look "inside" the material again, you can see what happens as you drill the Pockethole. The special stepped drill bit does two things: The smaller tip drills a pilot hole for the screw, while the main part of the bit drills the pocket that the screw fits into. Use a corded drill because speed gives you a cleaner bore. When using a cordless drill, the battery decreases power as you use it. Setting the Stop Collar – This is very important. To get the proper joint and not have the screw go in too deep or not far enough, set the Stop Collar to the correct thickness of the wood. The Pilot (the smallest part of the bit) Point should be greater than 1/8 in. from the edge. That sets the hole to the correct depth for the strongest joint. Kreg's Material Thickness Gauge allows you to easily determine material thickness (1/2 in., 3/4 in., 1-1/2 in.), and has a built-in hex wrench for tightening the stop collar. The stop collar window aligns with etched markings on the drill bit for easy setup. Use a Dry Lubricant - You can use a dry lubricant to assist in keeping the bit shape by reducing friction and keeping your bit sharper longer. It is recommended that you do this about every 20 or so holes. Clear the chips that are produced often. Clearing the chips will reduce bit dulling and friction. Keep an extra drill bit on hand when (not if) the one you are using becomes dull.

Before doing your cuts, use a square to ensure your table saw or chop saw will produce a square cut. You will have poor joints or gaps if your cuts are not square.