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I did this for my sk3’s using a Dremel tool. Been working perfectly for three years and counting. Just remember to tape over any openings in the motor before you start, to keep out metal shavings. Edit: If @longhairedboy says so, then it is so.

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Be advised that the shaft is case-hardened steel. This will complicate your efforts unless it’s a flat spot you’re going for.

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I have a mill so I would not bother with it. If I were you I would get an 8-10mm steel rod and practice before attempting it on the motor.

I’m happy with an open hole at the end, as I would use loctite anyway, but the motor pulleys i bought have keyways so I figured I may as well use em

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do you need an actual keyway or would a flat spot do? I’ve done both with a dremel and a cutting wheel, but that method doesn’t result in a a closed oval hole of a keyway, you end up with a slot that goes out to the end. Doing a flat spot is usually enough to get a flat bottomed grub screw to hang onto the shaft.

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I recently had to extend a keyway, just use a Dremel and go slow. It’s really easy. I have pretty minimal experience on the whole front, just welding back in high school.

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Tips and tricks would be appreciated i will do my own in a couple of weeks, but thought it would be best to gather some intel first.

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and also: put the motor in in a sandwich bag and poke the shaft through a hole in it, and blue tape around the hole to keep the bag out of the work area. This will keep hot metal from getting inside the motor.

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This kind of stuff is where my trade skills come into play. I know I can do it, I just want to hear the experiences of others before I attempt it.

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using a cutting wheel on a dremel at reasonable cutting speed (two thirds up on the dial) will result in a lot of heat going into the shaft, so stop and blow on it every few minutes, you don’t want it to get toooo hot, not good for the motor.