Head Types & Size: There are 3 basic head types: oval, tapered, and tip cutters. There are also many subtypes, such as relieved and angulated. Choose the strongest head that still allows access to the material to be cut.

Please note that different manufacturers may use their own trade names for these different cut types, whereas I’m just using the generic names here. When comparing the cutting capacities of cut types, the Semi-Flush cut gives you the highest cutting capacity. The Flush cut will provide a lower cutting capacity than the Semi-Flush cut and the Full-Flush provides the lowest of the three. Another thing to consider is that a Semi-Flush cutter will hold its edge (sharpness) longer than a Flush cutter and a Flush cutter will hold its edge longer than a Full-Flush cutter. The head style is not limited to any one type of cut. For example, an oval head cutter can come in any of the three types of cut, but for maximum cutting capacity, an oval head with a semi-flush cut will give you the highest cutting capacity.The Strongest Cutter:The Strongest Cutter is going to be a Semi-Flush, XL, Oval Head (non-relieved) cutter. The main feature that makes one cutter stronger than the other, is the quantity of the metal backing up the cutting edge.

It's possible to use a straight router bit for drilling because it can be used on a variety of projects and materials. In addition to being able to cut flutes in molding and create rabbets and mortises, straight router bits can also be used for drilling projects.

undercutter, n. meanings, etymology, pronunciation and more in the Oxford English Dictionary.

No matter what brand of cutters you are looking at, unless you are only doing one task with the same material forever, there is no single cutter for all your needs. Trying to save money by using the wrong cutter can damage your material and shorten the cutter’s life, costing you more in the long run.

eMachineShop has machined aluminum parts for over 15 years. You can design and order your parts with our free CAD software or upload your own CAD file for a ...

I'm sure cobalt would be better with the 135 degree. Carbide would even be better for the really hard provided it is a solid setup. Carbide will break easily.

When selecting a cutter, you must determine the gauge and type of material you’ll be cutting. Except for hard-wire cutters, cutting capacity ratings are based on soft copper wire. Published cutting capacities are normally for the throat of the cutter, not the tips. The tips most often have a cutting capacity of 4 AWG or less (bigger number/smaller size) than the published cutting capacity. If you’re using precision cutters and are having to squeeze hard to cut your material, you’re probably cutting beyond the cutter’s capacity.If you’re going to be cutting 18 AWG soft copper wire all day, every day, I wouldn’t settle for a cutter that is rated up to 18 AWG. Instead, select a cutter that’s rated up to 16 AWG because it will hold its edge longer.If you need to cut hard, semi-hard, or memory wire, you’ll need a specialty cutter like Xuron’s 2193, Knipex 74-12-160 or Lindstrom’s TRX-8180. The 2193 will cut steel wire up to 12 gauge, and memory wire up to 18 gauge. Trying to cut these materials with a pair of precision cutters will surely damage them. For even heavier gauge material, I would look at the Knipex 71-12-200 Mini Bolt Cutters. Handles: When selecting a pair of cutters, your first decision will be which handle fits your hand. Many manufacturers offer multiple handle options. Find the handle that fits your hands best. With precision cutters, it should be easy to cut through your material. If you are needing extra strength or longer handles to get more leverage, you are using the wrong cutter.

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HAR1 HAR1 - For use for all Harvey bandsaw models. The unique patented Stabilizer® from Carter is very different from any traditional guide in that it is ...

... cutting them which results in a better surface finish. There are, however, downsides to climb milling, the most severe of which will be found on manual machines ...

With our extensive experience in selling and supporting precision cutters, we have learned that most often, when there is a problem, all brands have the same problem. This common issue is what is known as “Over Ranged”. It is not the fault of the cutter or of the manufacturer, but of the user trying to cut material the cutter was not designed to cut. This may be the gauge (thickness) of the material or of the “Type” of material (ie.. Copper, Brass, Stainless). Most often, it is an issue the user of the user trying to cut a “Type” material that is harder than what the cutters were rated for. The capacity rating provided (other than specific “Hard Wire” cutters) is most always for “soft solid copper wire”. Most all other material used in the Jewelry Trade is harder than copper. I am not saying you cannot cut this harder material; I am saying you should use an appropriate cutter to do so.The second most common issue is cutting the material at the very tip of the cutters, which happens to be the weakest part of the cutter. The capacity rating published is for the throat and not the tip. When a tool is damaged, we find that most often it was caused by the material being cut, which was not copper but of a harder material. In the Jewelry Trade, there is a need to get into tight small areas to trim up pieces and you want to use an extra small tapered head cutter to do so. Be Careful! Make sure you know what the material is. Maybe pull the wire out so that you can use a larger appropriate cutter, then push/tuck it back in. Most manufacturers have a “Guarantee” that covers defects in material, manufacturing and workmanship. “Over Ranging” is not covered by a manufacturer’s guarantee, as it is considered misapplication/abuse. Here are the essential points to consider when buying a new pair of cutters:

Shank mounted tungsten carbide burrs are double cut for fine work. Designed for use on ferrous metals, plastic, fiberglass and other machinable materials.

Harvey Tool's fully stocked, ready to ship offering of Dovetail Cutters take into account a variety of included angles, lengths of cut, and corner radii.

Remember, though: Using a router to drill your wood requires extra caution and care. The high speed of the router's rotation can quickly and easily damage your wood. Taking a few necessary precautions will help you avoid this outcome. First, make sure that your piece of wood is firmly clamped; this will prevent it from moving as you drill into it using your router. In addition, be sure to set the depth of the bit before you begin drilling. When you're ready to drill, make sure you plunge the router straight down into the piece; don't move the router in any other direction because this will increase the size of your hole.

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