That’s where planers come in. Planers cut one face of a board parallel to the other — but that doesn’t mean the board will be flat.

With the jointed edge (Side 2) against the table saw fence, cut the board to its rough width. Leave a bit of material for final milling the next day.

No, don’t start sucking on the board. Set the face you just flattened on the outfeed table. If you feel slight suction as you lift it, you know it’s dead flat.

If the grain lines go straight along that entire edge, you can probably get away with feeding the board either direction.

If you’re stacking boards, “sticker” them by laying equally thick strips of wood between each board. This lets air circulate around them so moisture can escape evenly.

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Love your videos and your 8&1 dovetail guide. I noticed on your milling video a discrepancy of how you illustrated how the planer mimics the opposite face of the cutter head. Unless I am misinterpreting what you are saying. Your illustration shows it in a mirror fashion not a parallel. I love your content and don’t mean to be a troll. Just noticed it and thought it would be helpful to others. Keep up the killer content.

As you make multiple passes (which you should always do), any remaining pencil lines will show the low/high spots that haven’t yet been cut.

I have fresh milled pine 2×12×20, I am using them for floor joist. Do you recommend treating them with a preservative treatment? And if so, what kind? Thank you.

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Thanks for telling us that the edges of our lumber would have no tear out if we mill it according to the direction of its grain. My uncle relies on many timber-based materials to make the frames for his bedroom windows. I hope he checks out this detail before making a deal with the right supplier eventually. https://mfcestimating.com/multifamily-lumber-takeoffs/

The rollers on planers put down so much pressure, they can temporarily flatten warped boards. But as soon as that board comes out, it’ll spring back to its original shape.

A technique for reducing snipe, that has worked well for me in the past, is while ‘catching’ the board on the outfeed side, attempt to counteract the increasing load on the table as the board emerges from the planer, and gradually pull up on the board. It is especially helpful if you can apply a small upward force so that when the back end of the board passes the first roller the upward force on the end of the board keeps it in contact with the table. I have never seen this hint, but I’m sure this isn’t the first time someone has tried this. I find it quite effective… at least with my Dewalt 735 planer.

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Twisted boards can be the toughest to get flat on a jointer because they tend to shift as you pass them over the cutter head. To combat this, I first use a hand plane to knock down the high corners. It takes just a minute and makes the flattening process much easier. I also use my tablesaw as a flat reference surface for boards longer than my jointer bed.

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Yes, you can do your milling entirely with hand tools. But it requires quite a bit of skill, a lot more time, and bucketfuls of elbow grease.

TIP: CUT UP LONG BOARDSThe longer a board is, the more material you’ll have to remove to get it flat — especially if there are any cups or twists.

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I have fresh milled pine 2×12×20, I am using them for floor joist. Do you recommend treating them with a preservative treatment? And if so, what kind? Thank you.

Obviously, this depends on how flat a board is. But remember: Even a super flat board can warp when you bring it to your shop.

Milling also exposes the inner, more moisture-laden parts of a board. And as that newly exposed moisture is released… yup — the board will warp.

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I found your tip quite useful when you told us to acclimate the lumber to our shop for a couple of days first after buying it to avoid making the wood warp after moving it from one location to another. I enjoy wood crafting, so I was thinking of challenging myself by making my furniture once I get the wood I need to use as the material for it. I’ll keep this in mind while I look for a nearby lumber yard that I can go to for my material supply soon. http://adamslumber.com

Love your videos and your 8&1 dovetail guide. I noticed on your milling video a discrepancy of how you illustrated how the planer mimics the opposite face of the cutter head. Unless I am misinterpreting what you are saying. Your illustration shows it in a mirror fashion not a parallel. I love your content and don’t mean to be a troll. Just noticed it and thought it would be helpful to others. Keep up the killer content.

Always good to hear recaps, bc I’ve always planed both sides before pulling out the jointer, and think I’ll try it this way now!

I know it’s tempting to get home, mill up your new boards, and start building a project right away. But you’ll pay the price when those perfectly straight table legs suddenly aren’t straight.

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Feeding a board through a jointer or planer against the grain can chip off pieces of wood instead of cleanly severing the fibers.

Jointing a board after milling only one face leaves no option for grain direction when milling the edge. If you plane the opposite face parallel first, you can reference either face on the fence to allow for grain direction.

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You’ll more than likely have to re-mill resawn boards. But you can clamp them together overnight with the newly cut faces facing out. This should help mitigate the cupping.

Since the moisture levels between the lumber yard and your shop are probably different, the boards will likely warp when you bring them home.

I also recommend labeling the faces and edges you’ve already milled. It’s easy to get confused — especially if you’re milling multiple boards at once.

It’s a pretty straightforward process. But there are a few things to know to get it right — not just for making boards square, but for keeping them that way.

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Make sure the face you flattened is the side against the fence (the photo above was just a demonstration — Side 1 should face the other way).

Once your board is acclimated, it’s time to run it through the jointer and flatten one face. Remember to pay attention to grain direction.

A technique for reducing snipe, that has worked well for me in the past, is while ‘catching’ the board on the outfeed side, attempt to counteract the increasing load on the table as the board emerges from the planer, and gradually pull up on the board. It is especially helpful if you can apply a small upward force so that when the back end of the board passes the first roller the upward force on the end of the board keeps it in contact with the table. I have never seen this hint, but I’m sure this isn’t the first time someone has tried this. I find it quite effective… at least with my Dewalt 735 planer.

As you feed the board over the cutterhead, put all the pressure on the outfeed table as soon as possible. This will keep you from cutting a curve into the board.

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If you don’t do it right, your measurements won’t be accurate, your joinery won’t quite fit, and boards that were once straight will turn into hockey sticks over time.

Always good to hear recaps, bc I’ve always planed both sides before pulling out the jointer, and think I’ll try it this way now!

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Jointing a board after milling only one face leaves no option for grain direction when milling the edge. If you plane the opposite face parallel first, you can reference either face on the fence to allow for grain direction.

So even after boards are acclimated to your shop, you should do a “rough” milling one day, then a final milling a day or two later.

Thanks for telling us that the edges of our lumber would have no tear out if we mill it according to the direction of its grain. My uncle relies on many timber-based materials to make the frames for his bedroom windows. I hope he checks out this detail before making a deal with the right supplier eventually. https://mfcestimating.com/multifamily-lumber-takeoffs/

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When only one roller is making contact with a board, the uneven pressure can tilt it up into the cutterhead. That’s why snipe usually occurs at the ends of boards.

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Keep in mind the cutterhead on a jointer is below a board, while on a planer it’s above. On either, the part of the cutterhead that cuts spins the opposite direction the board is moving.

I’ll cover the most important points below, but here’s a few resources for you to get a solid understanding of the tools involved in the milling process:

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Think of it like petting a cat. Pet it in the direction the fur lies, and it stays flat. But pet against the fur, and that cat will look like it’s coming out of a three day catnip bender.

Place a board cupside-down on a flat surface. Wipe down the non-cupped side with a wet rag, then set something heavy on it and leave it overnight.

Twisted boards can be the toughest to get flat on a jointer because they tend to shift as you pass them over the cutter head. To combat this, I first use a hand plane to knock down the high corners. It takes just a minute and makes the flattening process much easier. I also use my tablesaw as a flat reference surface for boards longer than my jointer bed.

My biggest challenge is having a small shop, since I don’t have the room for a tablesaw or bandsaw. What are the most reliable ways to get that 4th side without one?

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Wood is constantly absorbing and releasing moisture from its surrounding environment — which causes it to expand and contract (a.k.a. wood movement).

My biggest challenge is having a small shop, since I don’t have the room for a tablesaw or bandsaw. What are the most reliable ways to get that 4th side without one?

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If it works for your project, cut long boards to their rough lengths with a chop saw or circular saw first, and keep some money out of the dust collector.

TIP: HOW TO DEAL WITH SNIPESnipe is when the cutterheads cut deeper into a section of a board — and it's the curse of lunchbox planers.

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The milling process is how you make boards flat, straight, and square — and it’s the crucial first step to any woodworking project.

As mentioned above, changes in location can change the shape of boards. Let them sit a few days before milling to save you from trouble later on.

I found your tip quite useful when you told us to acclimate the lumber to our shop for a couple of days first after buying it to avoid making the wood warp after moving it from one location to another. I enjoy wood crafting, so I was thinking of challenging myself by making my furniture once I get the wood I need to use as the material for it. I’ll keep this in mind while I look for a nearby lumber yard that I can go to for my material supply soon. http://adamslumber.com

Account for losing ¼ inch to ½ inch of material to milling — so buy boards at least ¼ inch thicker than the final dimensions you're after.