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Good for rounded edges and surface finishing in difficult to reach areas or tight and narrow angles and contours. The round nose or ball nose cone are often referred to as a taper shape.

Double cut carbide burrs tend to be used on steel and other ferrous metals, soft steel and also for all non-metal materials such as plastics and wood. They have more cutting edges and will remove material faster. Use for medium-light stock removal, deburring, finishing and cleaning. A double cut carbide burr is the most popular cut and will see you through most applications.

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As with all drill bits and burrs, let the burr do the work and apply only a little pressure otherwise the cutting edges of the flutes will chip away or become smooth too quickly, reducing the life of your burr.

Use for rounding off edges and making concave cuts. Use the pointed end for cutting in hard to reach areas and acute angled contours.

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While HSS taps offer versatility and cost-effectiveness, carbide taps excel in demanding machining applications requiring superior hardness and cutting speeds.

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The speed at which you use your carbide bur in your rotary tool will depend on the material you're using it on and the contour being produced but it's safe to say you do not need to exceed speeds of 35,000 RPM. The table below shows some approximate speeds.

Choose from 60 degree or 90 degree angle countersink burs, sometimes referred to carbide cone burrs. These are ideal for beveling, counterboring, chamfering and for getting into acute angled areas of your work.

Single cut (one flute) carbide burrs have a right handed (Up cut) spiral flute. These tend to be used with stainless steel, hardened steel, copper, cast iron, and ferrous metals and will remove material quickly with a smooth finish. Use for heavy stock removal, milling, deburring and cleaning.

Use a ball or spherical shaped carbide burr to create concave cuts in your material or to shape and hollow out an area. Many wood carvers, stone carvers and metal engravers use these carbide carving burrs in a hobby drill, micro motor or a high speed handpiece. As we mentioned before, make sure to use a handpiece that runs true i.e with no wobble.

If the burs are chipping easily this could be due to the speed being too slow. However, it's ideal to start the bur off slow, increasing the speed as you go along. High speeds will prevent clogging in the flutes of your burs.

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Choose from an end cut cylinder (with a cutting edge on the end) for contour finishing. Cylinder without end cut (flat on the end and no cutting edge) for contour finishing and right angled corners or a round nose or ball nose shape which is a cylinder shaped carbide burr but with a rounded head.

Tool for simple O-ring replacement.

The shank is the mount of your burr that fits into your rotary tool, die grinder, micro motor etc; so the opposite end to the working part of the tool. These are usually found in the following shank sizes:

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When using your carbide burr try not to keep it still for too long as this will prevent the burr from digging and jabbing into your material causing unsightly marks and roughness.

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Carbide burrs can be used on many materials. Metals including steel, aluminum and cast iron, all types of wood, acrylics, fibreglass and plastics. When used on soft metals such as gold, platinum and silver, carbide burrs are ideal as they will last a long time with no chipping or breaking.

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Our Carbide Burrs are machine ground from a specially chosen grade of carbide. Due to the extreme hardness of the Tungsten Carbide they can be used on much more demanding jobs than HSS (High Speed Steel).