CNC Machining with CNC Lathe and CNC Mill · Lathe capacity 12"OD 20" Length 2-15/15" thru hole · Threading ID and OD · Blind hole keyway broaching · Spindles ...

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As it was said in the comments you are going to need a HSS (High Speed Steel) drill bit which just means that the drill bit is extremely hard and resistant to heat. There are also titanium HSS bits which are just covered with a titanium oxide but then you wouldn't be able to sharpen them if you ever needed to do so.

do you need an actual keyway or would a flat spot do? I’ve done both with a dremel and a cutting wheel, but that method doesn’t result in a a closed oval hole of a keyway, you end up with a slot that goes out to the end. Doing a flat spot is usually enough to get a flat bottomed grub screw to hang onto the shaft.

Once the bit has gotten through the steel and enters the wood expect it to suddenly increase its boring speed, so be prepared for this as the drill may jerk which always comes with the risk of a snapped bit.

I have a mill so I would not bother with it. If I were you I would get an 8-10mm steel rod and practice before attempting it on the motor.

It's still possible to buy carbon-steel twist bits today, especially if they're very cheap. The durability of these bits when boring into steel can be low, especially if heat is allowed to build up during drilling (this can literally cause a bit to go blunt the first time it's used — if the tip goes blue it got too hot and will have 'lost temper', becoming little harder than the steel brackets you're drilling into).

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Most bare steel bits will be HSS, short for high-speed steel, a hard and durable alloy that is highly resistant to softening at high temperatures. Both of the other types can be HSS under their respective coatings too.

Personal protection Wearing eye protection is advisable, and especially if doing the drilling indoors ear protection too (common foam earplugs are fine for this level of noise).

These days they're commonly available in three finishes, bare steel, black oxide and "titanium-coated" (more accurately, coated in titanium nitride).

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I am making beds for my garden and am using treated wood with steel bracket like things. I need to make holes in them and the wood. I am doing 12 of these beds, what bit will hold up and cut through both the wood and steel.

Even though HSS is very heat-tolerant you may need to lubricate periodically during drilling (e.g. with 3-in-One or motor oil, fresh or unused) to prevent buildup of excess heat. The steel may drill much more slowly than you're used to but don't press hard to get the bit to pierce it, as always it's best to let the tool do the work at its own pace.

I’m happy with an open hole at the end, as I would use loctite anyway, but the motor pulleys i bought have keyways so I figured I may as well use em

Method When preparing to drill into the steel a centre-punch must be used first to put a dimple into the metal. This is to to help prevent the tip from wandering, but even so some care must be exercised to keep the bit on the mark before it starts to cut and form its own hole.

I did this for my sk3’s using a Dremel tool. Been working perfectly for three years and counting. Just remember to tape over any openings in the motor before you start, to keep out metal shavings. Edit: If @longhairedboy says so, then it is so.

I use a 5/8" because all my existing blades are (and the 1-1/4's that came with my used SS were steel, not carbide). No problems at all.

Be advised that the shaft is case-hardened steel. This will complicate your efforts unless it’s a flat spot you’re going for.

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I thought I might as well convert my Comment above seeing as nobody else posted an Answer specifying the exact bit type.

Edit: To add on to what I said before, step bits are a good choice of drilling if you are only drilling sheet metal or metal that is relatively thin (1/8" -1/4"). Also when drilling metal at anytime to counter the extreme heat generated you are going to want to use a lubricant such as motor oil or just look up "metal drilling lubricants" into google and you will find many available for purchase that are more specific to metal drilling.

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Tips and tricks would be appreciated i will do my own in a couple of weeks, but thought it would be best to gather some intel first.

I recently had to extend a keyway, just use a Dremel and go slow. It’s really easy. I have pretty minimal experience on the whole front, just welding back in high school.

This kind of stuff is where my trade skills come into play. I know I can do it, I just want to hear the experiences of others before I attempt it.

It sounds like for what you are doing the HSS bits would be fine for drilling through the metal and wood but depending on the materials you may want to look at a step bit such as this but I doubt that would be necessary.

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and also: put the motor in in a sandwich bag and poke the shaft through a hole in it, and blue tape around the hole to keep the bag out of the work area. This will keep hot metal from getting inside the motor.

using a cutting wheel on a dremel at reasonable cutting speed (two thirds up on the dial) will result in a lot of heat going into the shaft, so stop and blow on it every few minutes, you don’t want it to get toooo hot, not good for the motor.