This has now become the standard tool of choice. Nearly as good as replaceable tip, (better at interrupted cuts), easy to set to centre height (using a gauge), and a lot cheaper than T.C. tips.

Beer Can Filling For Handles Antikythera Mechanism New motor/esc for mill? Machining 1050 Grade Aluminium Another One Gone! A” WEAVER “1CC DIESEL ENGINE 30 Year old MOTORUN 3 Phase Static converter Bantam VS speed control Whittle V8 article wanted ad Tap alignment in the mill and lathe?

OK Neil what's a Wimberly holder??, I have both lh & rh diamond tools and they'r great as above I use them for 90 percent of my work I bought 1 in ozz & the other by post & the customs stiffed me £20 !! that was before you could purchase them in this country.

I've also made a height gauge specific for my Lathe as well so set up is very quick. Probably quicker than using a QCTP.

Agree wholeheartedly with previous replies – I splashed out and bought both LH & RH versions plus the parting off tool …… and apart from using a round shaping tool and boring bars they have been in permanent use since unpacked over 12 months ago. A really excellent tool choice and the expense side of things soon fades as you get to appreciate just how good they are.

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Having just looked at the Wimberley holder manual the tool grinding procedure seems to be as intricate as for a regular cutting tool whereas the Diamond Tangential tool grinding procedure (AND alignment in the tool holder) is just so straightforward, achievable by anyone of any level of expertise, and more importantly – consistent.

You are right Vic in that the tangential tool is very easy to adjust for height. The essence the QCTP however is in the C hange part. Whilst I use the tangential tool for much of the time other tools are more tricky to get right. Once the boats are set up then tool changes are quick and easy.

Hi Nick, Yes they are good, but as I'm too tight to buy at the prices they want I made my own. It's not hard to make one if you have a mill. Keith.

Initially used the 20 degree sharpening jig as per the article, but have made up a holder for the Worden. This makes a better job of it, but takes time to dig out the Worden from under the fitting bench and set it up. "Do I hear someone say "you get what you pay for?"

Hi Chris, 30° from the horizontal. Even for folks that have bought their toolholders I'd reccomend making the grinding jig. It's much nicer to use than the supplied one.

They come in 3 sizes… 8 – 9.5 – 12mm ( so it says in the advertising blurb ) so you can get on to suit all size machines, I got the 9.5mm for my machine & as said it's good albeit expensive, if you have a mill then you can make one, there is a thread on here that deals with these cutters & some have links to drawings to make one.

I used a round tool bit for turning the crankshaft of the Stuart engine build I have on the go. – The finish on it is great.

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I did purchase left and right handed tools along with the grinding jig. I must say I am very pleased with them and the finish they give.

Mine never was used much in anger, (reverted to replaceable tips) but a few months ago, made a bigger version to take 5/16 toolbits.

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I couldn't justify the cost for what I do so I've stuck with the four way though. I've got round the quick change part by bonding shims of the right thickness to the bottom of my insert holders so the're permanently on centre. Good plan except I noticed one of the shims had dropped off of one during last years house move! I think perhaps I didn't degrease it properly when I epoxied it. Oh well, another little job to add to the list!

Hi Nick, they are good, I splashed out for one & use it for about 98% of my machining needs, Brass, Steel, Aluminium, although you really need a chip breaker in the tool for this stuff as it comes off in long slivers.. very sharp! so I tend to use a carbide or HSS bit with chip breakers in for Aluminium.

A friend of mine who has been a pro engineer for 40+ years called round, and while he was here had a little play. He was also impressed and found them an 'interesting' tool and although he mostly uses insert tips stated there would be times when he would use such.

Having just looked at the Wimberley holder manual the tool grinding procedure seems to be as intricate as for a regular cutting tool whereas the Diamond Tangential tool grinding procedure (AND alignment in the tool holder) is just so straightforward, achievable by anyone of any level of expertise, and more importantly – consistent.

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The Wimberley tool looks quite interesting but at a rather expensive $85 shipping to the UK plus the tool cost of $59 I'll wait or make one.

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I remarked that although I was pleased with them they were expensive. He disagreed with me and thought them to be very good value.!!! – Different scale of priorities and viewpoint I suppose.

Sorry Vic, missed your post, 30 deg for the jig it is, thanks for that. Will make a toolholder in the fullness of time, that is, just as soon as I can get to it on the work list!

Home › Forums › Workshop Tools and Tooling › Diamond tool holder.?? This topic has 86 replies, 26 voices, and was last updated 22 December 2014 at 11:32 by Vic. Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 87 total) 1 2 3 4 → Author Posts 8 November 2014 at 19:37 #17546 Nick_GParticipant @nick_g Advert 8 November 2014 at 19:37 #169065 Nick_GParticipant @nick_g . Are they as good as is they say. i.e do they do 'what it says on the tin' or is it hype.? Also what size of shank is recommended for 'model' engineering.? It's nice to have a chunky and sturdy holder but of little use if you cannot get it into the work.

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Also what size of shank is recommended for 'model' engineering.? It's nice to have a chunky and sturdy holder but of little use if you cannot get it into the work.

One point is that the supplied sharpening jig leaves your fingers VERY close to the grindstone wheel, so I have manufactured a longer version. I also had to fit a spacer onto the grinder tool rest to bring the base of the tool sharpener in-line with the wheel centre line.