4-facet point design stabilizes on entry for superior hole size control and tool life (>0.08mm). 2-facet point on 0.08mm and smaller. Mirror finishes improve chip flow as hole depth increases

Very much enjoying these videos with Tom McLaughlin. He has a wealth of knowledge and is an excellent instructor. I just wish they were longer at say 30 minutes instead of ten. Hey we’re woodworkers we can maintain focus for more than ten minutes!

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Three flute design features improved chip space over four flutes and increased strength and feed capability over two flutes. Available in Square, Corner Radius, and Ball Nose

Variable helix design improves stability, extends tool life, and improves part quality in challenging applications. 3 Flute Square and Corner Radius configurations available

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Two flute design is ideal for softer alloyed, non-ferrous applications that require slotting or involve heavy chip loads. Available in Square, Corner Radius, and Ball Nose

Mike Pekovich begins his dovetailing master class at the tablesaw, where he creates the tails quickly and efficiently using a sled and a custom-ground blade.

In this master class episode, Tom McLaughlin demonstrates how he selects lumber and mills it to prepare for an almost invisible slip-matched panel joint.

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Tom’s a fantastic presenter and although I’ve seen many dovetailing videos, it’s still a treat to watch someone as capable as he is go at it.

4-facet point geometry provides centering assistance upon entry. Wide diameters offer ability to drill larger than average holes than is commonly possible in micro spindles

It surely does help! Thanks a lot! I have heard good things about Ridge Carbide, and after hearing this, I will be giving them a try. I have an old high tooth count Forrest WoodworkerII that’s well past due for a sharpening, and planned to order a ww2 combo when I sent it in, but I believe I’ll go with the Ridge equivalent instead.

Four flute design allows for higher feed and decreased deflection, improving productivity and surface finish. Available in Square, Corner Radius, and Ball Nose

As always, great video! As informative and entertaining as ever. I do have a couple questions for Tom, though. I’ve seen Mike Peckovich use a specially ground dovetail blade as well, and I have been curious about the blades (tooth count/configure, brand, etc.) What kind do you use Tom? Is it a dovetail blade from birt, or a more traditional saw blade that you have ground to suit you needs? I have been trying to find a better bench lamp lately as well. I’ve been using an old drafting table style articulating lamp, but it’s cumbersome and too dim. What kind of lamp were you using hike cutting your pin board? Thanks in advance. Epic woodworking is my favorite YouTube subscription! We'll keep watching all the content here in the Philadelphia area!

Split point and double margin design provide superior hole finish and size control. Straight through drilling without pecking cycle. Increased tool life and chip control in moderate-to-difficult workpiece materials

that said, last year i needed a flat ground reversible grove set and because of the pandemic forrest was completely slammed. they could not fill my order for six months and i ultimately wound up cancelling it. in desperation i reached out to ridge carbide and they were happy to fill the order. i am glad that i did. ridge carbide blades are every bit as good as forrest at a significant discount.

A dovetail blade makes cutting dovetails on the tablesaw almost a no-brainer. Almost any blade can be reground by a good saw-sharpening service so that all the teeth are at a consistent angle, usually 7° to 12°. The tails are cut on the tablesaw with the blade tilted to match the slope of the dovetail and angled teeth. The pins are cut by hand. Because you are just cutting to a line, you can use any spacing, including asymmetrical. While you can use any blade to cut dovetails, this specially ground blade gives better results because the angled blade cuts right up to the baseline and leaves a flat, clean surface all the way into the corner with little to no cleanup required. To use it, I set the angle of the blade to 10° and raise the blade until it just touches the baseline. If I have set the blade correctly, the top of each cut is smooth and exactly parallel to the baseline and there’s very little paring to do. The real advantage of this system, aside from speed, is that each of the tails will come out dead straight and exactly square to the face of the board, which is critical before you can transfer the tails to the pin board.

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4-facet point design, stub length, and mirror finish provide the highest quality spot. Available in Ti-NAMITE®-A coatings and uncoated options for a wide range of materials

The gaps in hand-cut dovetails result from not having perfectly vertical saw cuts. You use the first board as a template to scribe the layout on the second board. However, the face you are using as a template is not the face you see when the joint is put together. This is true whether you cut tails or pins first. The table saw method insures that the walls of the pin sockets (the tails) are square to the base line. You still have to cut the mating pins accurately by hand, but at least one variable has been eliminated.

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not to speak for tom, but i use forrest custom ground dovetail blades. i have two. one ground for 8:1 and the other for 6:1 ratios. they are 30 tooth rip blades that have been custom ground. i love forrest blades. they are very high quality and over the years i have spent a small fortune on the various blades and the dado set.

With its graceful curves, cabriole legs, and ornamental back splat, a Queen Anne side chair is a bucket list build for many woodworkers. Dan Faia had a very specific Queen…

4-facet point design stabilizes on entry for superior hole size control and tool life. Available in Ti-NAMITE®-A coatings and uncoated options for a wide range of materials

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