This will work, IF, the nut can be pulled back far enough to give access to the ring. Usually it can't be if this is a valve for a sink or toilet.

Is there anyway to remove compression rings after they've been tightened or can I leave it on and solder a fitting under the ring using the same pipe.I don't like soldering and trying to keep from removing the pipe because the jointabove is where the shut-off valve is and I'll have to protect it from heat by either removing it or covering with wet rag.

Would you believe all I did was turn my wrench cw & ccw 2 or 3 times and the rings just slid right off.Shows how they are just barely holding .But it was on a 3/4 copper hot water supply line and I just didn't have them real tight I guess.Anyway everything turned out ok.

Not surprising at all. The only time that wouldn't work is when the compression nut was overtightened to begin with. Thanks for letting us know how it went.

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Thanks hj for the tip.It's for a hot water heater.I think I'll try and cut it then pop it off with scredriver.Then add new copper tubing in place of the ss braided lines.

Thanks jimmy-o in (CA) but I'm going to add copper tubing in place of the ss braided line and I just need the room to solder the new tubing so I wanted to remove the ring.So the hacksaw method with the screwdriver seems the way the majority are using

Thanks jimmy-o (CA) I appreciate the advice.I think I'll just cut it with hacksaw and make a groove then pop it off with screwdriver-seems that's what most people are doing!

The compression ring is made of brass. Brass is very soft. The ring is also very thin and brittle. First try to pull it off, while twisting, with pliers. This often works. If that doesn't work, cut a slit in the ring with a hacksaw blade (in your hand) without going all the way through the ring. Don't let the blade touch the copper. Then fit a flat head screwdriver into the slit you made and twist the screwdriver to snap the ring.

Any hardware store has a compression ring puller. Only drawback is that if the nut was overtigthened to begin with, then the ring has made a significant divot in the pipe, and it may not be possible to get a new ring to seal. Many folks will leave the ring and nut in place, and just install the new valve. This is a reliable procedure, only complicated because some older valves had coarse threads, where virtually all new valves have fine threads. Some hardware stores specifically stock a "coarse thread" valve just for such an occasion.