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I would drill a square section piece lengthways the dia. of the rod,drill a ,cross hole dia vertically through the lengthways hole, couple of threaded holes to clamp, face off one end of the block to give positive location.
Material and hardening to choice and need. Vertically drill hole cut of surplus, piercing saw or Dremel, step and repeat as required
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I was thinking of the square ( round? ) bar drilled up the centre with a 1mm hole drilled through one face, but wondered about accuracy….I guess the accuracy is dependant on how well made my bar is marked out and drilled…
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Home › Forums › General Questions › Cross drilling This topic has 28 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 22 June 2017 at 11:17 by John Rudd. Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 29 total) 1 2 → Author Posts 19 June 2017 at 14:19 #303172 John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576 I need to cross drill some 3/32 diameter rod, hole will be 1 mm diameter. What is the usual method for doing this with most accuracy? Advert 19 June 2017 at 14:19 #25312 John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576 19 June 2017 at 14:26 #303175 Jim CParticipant @jimc Hi John, You could maybe mill a small flat on the bar and spot and drill it after marking out in the old fashioned way or indexing across the dia. with wobbler. Or better, you could produce a drill bush from rectangular bar and use that? Jim. 19 June 2017 at 14:26 #303176 JasonBModerator @jasonb Hold in vice with a bit sticking out and use edge finder on either side then half the readings so you are above ctr of the rod, small spot drill then 1.0mm drill. In practical terms I usually put teh spot drill in teh chuck and pinch a steel rule between that and the work, adjust position until rule is horizontal then spot and drill, really depends what accuracy you need, this is good enough for a thou or so. 19 June 2017 at 14:47 #303181 John FlackParticipant @johnflack59079 I would drill a square section piece lengthways the dia. of the rod,drill a ,cross hole dia vertically through the lengthways hole, couple of threaded holes to clamp, face off one end of the block to give positive location. Material and hardening to choice and need. Vertically drill hole cut of surplus, piercing saw or Dremel, step and repeat as required I am a simple soul, there could be very complicated alternatives 19 June 2017 at 15:15 #303191 John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576 Thanks for the replies….some great ideas there.. I was thinking of the square ( round? ) bar drilled up the centre with a 1mm hole drilled through one face, but wondered about accuracy….I guess the accuracy is dependant on how well made my bar is marked out and drilled… The hole being drilled is in the valve stem for my Webster engine….( yeah….another unfinished symphony….lol) I thought I might make some progress with it… 19 June 2017 at 15:17 #303193 Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1 John R, You have been given multiple options but nobody has asked what equipment you have & how many pieces do you want to drill? Please advise as it's going to have some relevance to a practical answer Tony 19 June 2017 at 15:29 #303196 JasonBModerator @jasonb If it is only for the pin to retain the spring on a valve then I have used the ruler method plenty of times for that and all the engine run, why go to the bother of making jigs 19 June 2017 at 15:35 #303201 John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576 Posted by JasonB on 19/06/2017 15:29:37:
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Jan 18, 2024 — STEP 1: Unplug the tool and fit the wrench in the chuck. · STEP 2: Twist the key to open the chuck. · STEP 3: Insert the new bit and twist the ...
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I always make a jig, it does not take long, I do not bother with splitting or hardening, just a screw to nip the work which can be a brass one if you are worried about marking the work, and if you have a lot to do the jig makes it easy. Over the years I have made a few to suit various diameters, and they are often reused. They are stored in a plastic bin labelled cross drilling jigs next to another marked happy drilling jigs.
Yup its for the pin, as for accuracy in drilling the hole, I'd like it to be as good as possible so it looks better than a hole drilled off centre….
Just out of interest I thought I would see how the two centering methods I suggested in my first reply compare. Used a 3/32" stub drill held horizontal in the mill vice with 1/4" sticking out
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And while drinking my tea I has a count up of the small cross holes ( >.250" rods) in the current hit and miss engine I'm making. I would need 9 jigs to suit the rod/hole combinations on that one model alone and for what when I can get 5micron accuracy without them better if I use the edge finder.
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You have been given multiple options but nobody has asked what equipment you have & how many pieces do you want to drill?
Clamp a bit if MDF to the mill table and use the tip of a centre drill (or something else that produces an approximate V groove) to cut a V groove across the MDF. Lock the table so the groove is directly under the mill axis. Now clamp the round bar into the groove and drill in the normal way. I have done this with 1mm rod and a 0.5 mm drill successfully.
The hole being drilled is in the valve stem for my Webster engine….( yeah….another unfinished symphony….lol) I thought I might make some progress with it…
Maybe back in the day when all that was available was a lathe and possibly a drill press the jig was the way to go but for me at least things have moved on. A mill with DRO makes a very accurate drilling machine.
Mill, and rule was used to find ctr on the incremental setting then switched between the two to compare the difference in the two readings.
If it is only for the pin to retain the spring on a valve then I have used the ruler method plenty of times for that and all the engine run, why go to the bother of making jigs
I know which way I would do it but maybe thats why I get a lot of engines made and don't waste time with jigs or using more accuracy than is needed.
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0.00019" or 0.005mm difference, this is actually the smallest increment my 5micron DRO will give. So as I said for me the ruler method is good enough 99% of the time.
1mm hole provides a guide that will be centred. best if you drill right through the brass first then insert the piece you want to put the hole through.
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Tap and Drill Size Chart ; 1-64 .0595, No. 53 ; 2-56 .0700, No. 50 ; 3-48 .0785, No. 47 ; 4-40 .0890, No. 43.
John why not use the first method I suggested as that is accurate, hold work in mill vice, touch one side with edge finder and zero dro, touch otherside and then use half function which will then allow you to position quill directly above ctr of work and then spot & drill (you would need to do this for the cross hole in the jig anyway)
PEC, Got it from MSC but not sure if they do them now. It's the 1/2" shank 0.200" tip one as I mostly work in imperial, the cylindrical end is better than the ball type for use on round items like this as it is not critical on ctr height hich saves having to wind the table about to position it either side of the bar.
Hi John, You could maybe mill a small flat on the bar and spot and drill it after marking out in the old fashioned way or indexing across the dia. with wobbler. Or better, you could produce a drill bush from rectangular bar and use that?
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Jig wise, probably a bit of bar, with a tapped hole ( m3 ) for a grub screw to hole the valve while I drill……nothing too elaborate….
In practical terms I usually put teh spot drill in teh chuck and pinch a steel rule between that and the work, adjust position until rule is horizontal then spot and drill, really depends what accuracy you need, this is good enough for a thou or so.
I bought a V on a M2 taper. Put in tailstock, with a bit of modding will do for 30mm dia.. Bought from Arc for a one off and now it's the tool of choice.
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Hold in vice with a bit sticking out and use edge finder on either side then half the readings so you are above ctr of the rod, small spot drill then 1.0mm drill.
Jig method can introduce errors, can you get bar running spot on in the 4-jaw, will 3mm hole start dead in the middle, will 3mm hole wander along length of bar, will 1mm cross hole be dead in teh middle and slight clearances on teh holes will allow bar & drill to move slightly. And as for having a grub screw bear on your newly turned valve stem
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Search for: Home › Forums › General Questions › Topics Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total) Topic Voices Posts Last Post Co-ordinate positioning for circle of holes (not all equally spaced) Started by: Zebethyal in: Help and Assistance! (Offered or Wanted) 7 15 24 November 2024 at 10:50 John Haine Creworks Lathes on Amazon UK – some big price drops for Black Friday Week Started by: Lee Cooper in: Manual machine tools 4 4 24 November 2024 at 10:45 Howard Lewis What is (Traditional) Model Engineering? 1 2 Started by: Martin Kyte in: General Questions 19 32 24 November 2024 at 10:37 Mike Hurley ML10 questions Started by: 1957jmh in: Beginners questions 15 25 24 November 2024 at 10:34 Howard Lewis A blast from the past Started by: Michael Gilligan in: The Tea Room 8 10 24 November 2024 at 10:21 Mike Hurley EN8M FLAT Started by: Dougie Swan in: Materials 2 2 24 November 2024 at 10:03 JasonB chenery 9 cylinder gnome Started by: charlie9cyl in: I/C Engines 7 10 24 November 2024 at 10:02 noel shelley Measurement history Started by: JohnF in: The Tea Room 6 12 24 November 2024 at 09:39 JohnF Traction Engine Identification Help Please…. Started by: Bill Morgan in: Traction engines 7 7 23 November 2024 at 23:40 Nigel Graham 2 maid of kent valva gear Started by: wireman in: Introduce Yourself – New members start here! 2 2 23 November 2024 at 22:13 Nigel Graham 2 What did you do Today 2024 1 2 … 18 19 Started by: JasonB in: The Tea Room 67 473 23 November 2024 at 20:18 Diogenes Westbury Cam Turning Jig Started by: Clive Brown 1 in: I/C Engines 4 6 23 November 2024 at 17:59 Clive Brown 1 Colchester/Harrison VS Lathe Started by: Brad White in: Workshop Tools and Tooling 1 1 23 November 2024 at 17:27 Brad White A couple of ‘soon to be available in the UK’ lathes that look interesting 1 2 Started by: Lee Cooper in: Manual machine tools 11 32 23 November 2024 at 16:50 Michael Gilligan Twin mill engine progress Started by: AStroud in: Work In Progress and completed items 3 4 23 November 2024 at 16:19 AStroud BLACKMAIL Started by: Howard Lewis in: The Tea Room 11 18 23 November 2024 at 15:36 Michael Gilligan Strange drilling situation Started by: gerry madden in: Workshop Techniques 14 15 23 November 2024 at 15:15 Howard Lewis 775 Motor based Dynamo ? Started by: JasonB in: Miscellaneous models 5 9 23 November 2024 at 14:58 duncan webster 1 Lathe vibration in workshop 1 2 Started by: Mark Salzedo 1 in: General Questions 19 37 23 November 2024 at 14:32 Howard Lewis FreeCAD version 1.0 released Started by: Russell Eberhardt in: CAD – Technical drawing & design 6 12 23 November 2024 at 14:26 IanT Bronze Started by: Garry Coles in: Materials 5 5 23 November 2024 at 12:33 duncan webster 1 Motorcycle General Discussion 1 2 … 46 47 Started by: John Stevenson 1 in: Related Hobbies including Vehicle Restoration 151 1,161 23 November 2024 at 12:33 John MC Advice on cutting 16mm diameter groove on the lathe Started by: Steven Shand in: Workshop Tools and Tooling 9 15 23 November 2024 at 09:07 Ramon Wilson Les chenery aeronca Started by: Dougie Swan in: General Questions 2 4 23 November 2024 at 08:03 JasonB Armortek series 1 landrover kit Started by: Plasma in: Miscellaneous models 2 2 22 November 2024 at 20:01 Oldiron Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)
Aug 28, 2008 — The problem is that the radius is in the root of the threadmill profile therefore, it cuts the major diameter of the (external)thread small.
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If it is only for the pin to retain the spring on a valve then I have used the ruler method plenty of times for that and all the engine run, why go to the bother of making jigs
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