Core Drill Cutters (Sluggers) with Pilot Pin – HSS - drill and cutters
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Now it’s simply a matter of gently pulling the gearbox/cutterhead assembly straight out of the machine. The bearing on the cutterhead should easily slide out of the casting but a light tap on the end of the cutterhead (put the pulley retainer bolt back in before doing this) should help things along.
In the next installment I’ll show you how to pull the gearbox apart, remove the old cutterhead, and install the new Shelix. Stay tuned.
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Next up take the drive pulley off the end of the cutterhead assembly. You might need to use a gear puller here but this pulley simply slid off the shaft once we removed the retainer bolt and washer.
The feed rollers are powered by a sprocket on the end of the cutterhead and a spring-loaded tensioner keeps the chain tight between the feed roller sprockets. Take a photo for reference, it’s easy to forget exactly how all the parts fit. I’ve already removed the retainer bolts and washers on the sprockets.
I am also thrilled to bits about the JoWo option. It’s given me the option to use my Franklin-Christoph Music nib (which I admit is an unusual choice for a pocket pen), and the Masuyama-tuned F-C nibs I’ve picked up over the years. JoWo nibs simply look better finished and perform better than Bock nibs in my experience.
One of the best upgrades we can do for our planers is to install a spiral segmented cutterhead, and the Byrd Shelix head that we’re installing in a buddy’s Delta DC-380 15-inch planer will revolutionize the old beast. These heads offer a shearing cut that virtually eliminates tear-out, even in really difficult wood. Lower noise levels and easier to collect small shavings are added advantages, and the big one: you never have to suffer through a knife change again! Hallelujah.
On the other end of the cutterhead resides the chain drive assembly that powers the feed rollers and behind that assembly is the two-speed gearbox that powers the chain drive. Start by removing the chain guard and the little filler covers on the backside of the chain guard.
Also new is colour-matched sections in the default concave style. The first wave of Pocket Sixes came in amazing colours, but the only section choices were silver, black or brass. Now, the colour of the pen extends onto the section itself, which I think looks fabulous.
I’m sure I’ll get some grief for my methodology but I typically use a long handled screwdriver or slim pry-bar to GENTLY pry the sprockets off their shafts. Pry lightly alternating from side to side on the sprocket, or simply use two screwdrivers. It’s a good idea to use a little penetrating oil on old machinery that has been allowed to get a bit dry and rusty, makes life much easier. It’s also nice to have a second pair of hands to help hold the assembly together as the sprockets slide off the shafts.
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And now Ian is experimenting with material finishes, too: as well as a multitude of anodised aluminium colour schemes, plus brass, he’s trying out hammered and cut patterns (like my favoured Montblanc Martele and Geometry). Ian sent me a prototype Geometry-style Pocket Six in brass to check out.
It manages to pack a full-size #6 nib and a comfortable full-size grip into a pen that makes the Kaweco Sport look chunky. It’s fair to say that the Pocket Six has revolutionised the pocket pen category, and with the never-ending array of funky colour combinations hitting Instagram (and new retailers like Izods coming on board), I can already see the Pocket Six turning into the pen equivalent of Beanie Babies. Buying new ones is almost irresistible. They’re just so cute!
As well as these cool updated finishes for the Pocket Six, Ian gave me a sneak peek at some entirely new designs. I don’t want to steal any of his thunder, so all I can say is that I’m really, really excited to see what comes out of Ian’s workshop next.
The aesthetics of the hooded sections may not be to everyone’s tastes, but to me they are a triumph. The ribbed texture adds a bit of grip, and now that the profile is no longer concave, the pen doesn’t feel so slim. The extra length is a practical addition. And I do love having bright contrasting colours hiding under the cap of a pen.
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Remove the four socket-head screws that hold the gearbox in place. It’s essential that the cutterhead assembly is supported, in this case by offcuts, or damage to the casting at the bearing end of the cutterhead could result. Allow the gearbox to drop just slightly to ease removal.
And don’t forget the O-ring that makes them feel completely trustworthy bouncing around in your pocket. Because of that, I can carry it instead of a pocket ballpoint. I’ve got 3 Pocket 6s, and I’m not yet feeling any regret!
Hmm. As much as I always though I only needed one pocket pen and was content that Kaweco had filled that brief, you have succeeded. I want one of these now. Lots. MC Hammer clinched it for me.
Absolutely gorgeous! Congratulations, and a big welcome to the new members of your Schon family… can’t wait to see the new designs. x
To start the project we needed to remove the drive belts, and in the case of the DC-380, the motor assembly. The motor and its mount is a heavy unit so it’s a good idea to stack some off-cuts under the motor to support the weight as you remove the bolts. You’ll use the same method for reinstalling the assembly. Changing knives in one of these beasts was never much fun with that monster motor hovering over the cutterhead.
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Inspired by this I dived in and ordered one from Fontoplumo – got the “red marble” and have to say was a bit disappointed – there’s more solid colour than marbling and in real life it looks a lot muddier a red than in all the publicity photos, even allowing for different monitor settings. Clearly hand made can mean a bit hit and miss on the aesthetics
Ian was the first to tell me that the finish on the facets isn’t perfect — there are some machining marks visible — but honestly it doesn’t bother me at all. Brass is a finish to patina, and a pocket pen is a pen to live with the rough and tumble of life. This kind of texture will only look better with age.
Oh, that’s a shame Ian, I’m sorry to hear it! It might just be the colours that I’ve had in the six I’ve owned, but they’ve all been vibrant with good contrast, in brown, pink, blue, gold, black and silver. If I were you I’d ping Fontoplumo and see if they can let you pick the actual model and swap it. If not, maybe ping Ian?
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In the absence of the pen show season, he’s started doing virtual pen show consultations over Zoom (Webex would have been better, of course…). I participated a few weeks ago, enjoying a great chat about pens and the opportunity to pick out the exact shade of beautiful new petrol Pocket Six…
Changing out a typical planer cutterhead is really pretty straightforward and doesn’t require a ton of tools or vast expertise. A basic set of sockets, box end wrenches, a couple of long handled screwdrivers (or light prybars), Allen wrenches, a hammer (I like hammers) and possibly a gear puller and you’re off and wrenching. Now a little disclaimer, this isn’t a nuanced, fussy overview. I may gloss over some details that you’ll be able to figure out, and not every planer will be exactly like this one but the basics will be the same and there’s enough information here that you can easily get the job done.
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This is my first experience with one of the brass Pocket Sixes, and the extra heft is noticeable, in a pleasant way. It’s still not a heavy pen — it’s way too small and slim for that — but the weight is noticeable over the aluminium version.
I describe that in my first review, linked to in the first paragraph of this one :). Essential feature! Keep enjoying the pens ?
Take the knives out, it’s much safer dealing with an unloaded cutterhead, and the clearance for removal of the head is tight.
Before you start make sure you have the correct bearings for the new cutterhead. Some of the cutterheads will re-use the original bearings while others will need unique bearings. Check with the manufacturer of the cutterhead you’re using for assistance determining exactly what you need so you can have the bearings on hand before you start the project. You might also consider ordering a new cutterhead shaft seal for the gearbox, it’s easy to install one when you’ve got everything dismantled. Good insurance against leaking lube. In part 2 of this series you’ll see what the seal is and where it goes.
That’s not all. Ian has innovated and iterated the already wonderful Pocket Six design, bringing out new sections that swap from Bock to JoWo compatibility (which I prefer), and offer a smart ‘hooded’ effect to lengthen usable grip without making the pen itself any longer. I bought a few.
… and also a tour of his enormous workshop, including smart innovations like his automatic nib assembly machine. This guy knows how to push my buttons — anything that improves QC consistency is a good thing by me.