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Or , presuming the drill has a tanged Morse taper spindle as is likely on a pillar-drill, a smaller chuck with a taper-adaptor.

I use a pin chuck to hold drills as small as 0.3mm in a pin chuck that uses collets. Your biggest problem with accuracy is the runout of the Jacobs chuck in your drill.

A large pillar drill with a small bit will have problems with speed and feel, speed is not too much of a problem but feeling the bit is, a useful accessory is one like this from Arceurotrade **LINK** this will give you the feel that will help avoid breaking the drill bit.

However, you may find the direct feed of a large drill-press is not very sensitive – 2mm isn't really small – but even so take care and go gently

Does anyone know off the top of their head if Kennions are still operating at the moment? I feel rather guilty about ordering stuff online right now as it means someone going to the post office, (and therefore into risk), but then, mightn't they also want to keep their business going at some level too? Just a thought.

A pin-chuck would be better that a pin-vice – the cheaper ones are exactly that (cheap) but will still do the job most likely.

FaceMillingcutter

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IndexableballEnd Mill

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DapraBallNose End Mill

Can anyone suggest a tool that would allow me to place a 2mm drill bit in the only pillar drill I have access to, which is a big floor standing type.

The way I do this is to put drill bit in a (larger) pin-vice and then put that in the drilling machine chuck…..but make sure it runs true….

There's a lot of cheap keyless stuff with a hex shaft about but I found a keyed one gripped better when into the real cheapo stuff not going to be used often.

What we really need is an epicyclic gearbox built around a small chuck such that when you gripped the gear box case, the speed of the drill increased by 6 – 10 times the speed, but I expect that wouldn't be cheap (low cost).

Easy enough to make in the lathe short stub of steel, carefully drill a suitable sized hole down the middle ensuring the drill is started exactly central. turn the out side at the same setting. Hold the 2mm drill in the tailstock to ensure alignment and loctite the two together. Part off deburr and off you go to the drilling machine.

Regarding Kennions, eMail Richard and see what he's doing. The mail address is on the website sales@glrkennions.co.uk I think.

1/4 InchBallNose End Mill

The quality brand name items from the hardware store are more likely to run true than the cheap no name junk off Fleabay though.

Drill chucks with straight shanks are surprisingly difficult to find, and even more so in small sizes. Many chucks, many straight shank arbors but the two together are thin on the ground.

The pin chuck is a good idea, the most important part of which is that it has a straight, short shank. There are many things (wrongly) described both as pin chucks or pin vices, a lot of which have long, knurled shanks.

Because higher productivity often makes the difference in the competitive manufacturing sector, Kennametal milling tools feature rapid feed rates and multiple cutting edges per insert. These high-performance elements offer precise and consistent results with every application. Ultimately, choosing Kennametal Inc. for dedicated solutions, including end mill holders and carbide grades, gives you an immediate competitive advantage.

As you have a lathe you could do as I suggested. Or fudge up a drill pad you could hold in your tailstock and drill from the hedstock end as you suggest for vertical slide usage.

The hardware stores around here sell a range of small chucks with about a 1/4" hex shank on them designed to fit in various cordless power drills and impact drivers etc. Hold the shank in the larger drill press chuck. Plenty of similar type things available on Fleabay etc too. Example show here: VYAAOSwWdFcsJLg">LINK

Tungaloymillinginserts

The reason I'm doing this is I'm drilling the frames etc. for an LBSC 'Rainhill' that I'm putting together during my 'lockdown' evenings'.

Ballnoseinsertcutter

Used to have – probably still do somewhere – a gadget that did the opposite to improve masonry drilling in the days before variable-speed electric hand drills.

If your problem is that the chuck on the pillar drill doesn't close down enough to grip a 2mm drill bit then the simplest solution is to buy a smaller chuck with a parallel shank and grip that in the larger chuck.

Home › Forums › Workshop Tools and Tooling › Small drill bit in large drill press? This topic has 19 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 5 April 2020 at 19:58 by Former Member. Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 20 total) Author Posts 2 April 2020 at 20:55 #461929 GaunlessParticipant @gaunless Hi all. Can anyone suggest a tool that would allow me to place a 2mm drill bit in the only pillar drill I have access to, which is a big floor standing type. I'm quite new to the game so not 100% on the names of tools. Thank you. Advert 2 April 2020 at 20:55 #19691 GaunlessParticipant @gaunless 2 April 2020 at 21:06 #461931 pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461 If your problem is that the chuck on the pillar drill doesn't close down enough to grip a 2mm drill bit then the simplest solution is to buy a smaller chuck with a parallel shank and grip that in the larger chuck. There's a lot of cheap keyless stuff with a hex shaft about but I found a keyed one gripped better when into the real cheapo stuff not going to be used often. pgk 2 April 2020 at 21:32 #461939 Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2 Or , presuming the drill has a tanged Morse taper spindle as is likely on a pillar-drill, a smaller chuck with a taper-adaptor. 2 April 2020 at 21:43 #461942 Bob StevensonParticipant @bobstevenson13909 The way I do this is to put drill bit in a (larger) pin-vice and then put that in the drilling machine chuck…..but make sure it runs true…. 2 April 2020 at 21:49 #461943 Jon LawesParticipant @jonlawes51698 I agree with pgk pgk (and by defininition Bob). To "clock" the chuck you can spin it up and check to see how much it visually wobbles, stop the drill, turn it a few degrees and see if the wobble gets better or worse, then keep moving it in the direction that improves it until you have to go back again. Smaller chucks are seldom very accurate but it will help to get things a little better. 2 April 2020 at 22:00 #461946 IanTParticipant @iant A pin-chuck would be better that a pin-vice – the cheaper ones are exactly that (cheap) but will still do the job most likely. However, you may find the direct feed of a large drill-press is not very sensitive – 2mm isn't really small – but even so take care and go gently Regards, IanT Edited By IanT on 02/04/2020 22:00:55 2 April 2020 at 22:08 #461949 Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116 I use a pin chuck to hold drills as small as 0.3mm in a pin chuck that uses collets. Your biggest problem with accuracy is the runout of the Jacobs chuck in your drill. Paul Edited By Paul Lousick on 02/04/2020 22:10:46 2 April 2020 at 22:30 #461955 Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762 Loctite a collar onto the drill to take it up to the range of your drilling machine chuck. Easy enough to make in the lathe short stub of steel, carefully drill a suitable sized hole down the middle ensuring the drill is started exactly central. turn the out side at the same setting. Hold the 2mm drill in the tailstock to ensure alignment and loctite the two together. Part off deburr and off you go to the drilling machine. regards Martin 2 April 2020 at 23:15 #461966 Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104 A large pillar drill with a small bit will have problems with speed and feel, speed is not too much of a problem but feeling the bit is, a useful accessory is one like this from Arceurotrade **LINK** this will give you the feel that will help avoid breaking the drill bit. Mike 3 April 2020 at 08:07 #461990 DC31kParticipant @dc31k Posted by Martin Kyte on 02/04/2020 22:30:41:

Given the OP says he is new to the game, a little appreciation of his situation and links saying 'buy this, it will solve your problem' would be more helpful.

InsertEnd Mill Cutter

To "clock" the chuck you can spin it up and check to see how much it visually wobbles, stop the drill, turn it a few degrees and see if the wobble gets better or worse, then keep moving it in the direction that improves it until you have to go back again. Smaller chucks are seldom very accurate but it will help to get things a little better.

InsertCuttermilling

Thread pitch of screws used on Stihl equipment BLACKMAIL Strange drilling situation What is (Traditional) Model Engineering? Co-ordinate positioning for circle of holes (not all equally spaced) Chester Super Lux advice Rite of Passage build – Elmers Standby Jaguar [oh dear] 775 Motor based Dynamo ? Mach3 problem?

Back to basics … For a one-off job, find some plastic tubing of about 2mm bore and slip it over the drill shank before clamping in the big chuck.

If I had a vertical slide for my lathe I would clamp the bits in there, and put the drill bit in my chuck, but I don't have said vertical slide, (I'd rather save my pennies for a milling machine). So the company drill press it is.

You can also buy drill bits designed for construction work from the hardware store that are 2mm with a 1/4" hex shank to fit straight into the hex tool holder on cordless drills etc. I would assume the same is available in the UK?

Thank you for your replies. Most helpful indeed. I have located an old battery drill that is 'time expired'…and I've salvaged it for its gubbins. I will put the chuck and its straight shank in the larger chuck in the drill press. Unfortunately It is a keyless chuck I've salvaged, but beggars can't be choosers.