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Chamfered edge

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Chamfered edge meaning

Hi, if there are remaining pieces of the un-chamfered faces, the chamfered face can simply be selected and deleted. If there is no remaining piece of the un-chamfered face, you should cut and extend the body to get to the un-chamfered state:

After trying a multitud of ways to solve this, I must say it has been impossible to chamfer or fillet a simple edge in an object. The chamfering/filleting tool has been working so irregularly and unpredictably that it ends up costing so much time trying to advance. Thank you! problem with Chamfering Edge.PNG1222×916 110 KB

Chamfermachine

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We’re you able to do a fillet or a chamfer at the very begin of the session, the reason I ask is it looks like you have a double line selected. Try to zoom in as far as possible and see if you have a slightly double edge, if so delete one of them. Then try the fillet or chamfer. Hope this helps

Thank you very much. I didn’t know I had such level of editing “control” on a body’s surface. I assumed the delete function for sketching only. Simply thanks. I’d been going around for hours trying to “undo” a chamfer/filet fully and correctly to apply later chamfers/fillets.

Chamfertool

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http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9953-lexington-by-jbshan-dlumberyard-164-from-the-seaways-practicum-by-clay-feldman/

HSS stands for High Speed Steel and is kind of a standard for normal metal working.  You can go up a step to cobalt if the work is harder.

How to pronouncechamfer

Thank you very much. Indeed, when zooming in “a lot” I realize that previous chamfer operation was not “undone” properly… I realize that it happens (to me) often, when trying to undo a chamfer or fillet. Is there a way to solve this type of dead-end in terms of chamfering/filleting, and then undoing them?

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Chamfervs bevel

It really doesn't matter which you use.  The major difference between HSS and carbon steel as far as we are concerned is that carbon steel can, if heated sufficiently, lose its sharp edge and can revert to its original "soft" state.  However it would have to be taken to "blue" at around 300°C for this to happen.  HSS can be run red hot and will still hold its edge.

With micro drill bits that would be used with a pin vise, which are better bits hss or carbon stellfor our purposes? This is for use with wood.

Properly hardened and tempered carbon steel is actually harder than HSS - unless allowed to heat up and therefore become soft again.

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Last build : Royal Caroline: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13939-royal-caroline-by-bizibilder-finished-panart/?hl=%2Broyal+%2Bcaroline+%2Bbizibilder

Chamfervs fillet

Chamferin AutoCAD

It is unlikely that in modelling - even with our small power tools - we would manage that unless we really abused our tools.  If you are burning the timber with a drill bit something is wrong and you may well be in a situation where carbon steel tools would be damaged.

In the US carbon steel suitable for toolmaking is sold as "drill rod" and in the UK it is known as "silver steel".  It is worth noting that carbon steel tools will probably be much cheaper than the equivalent HSS.

Or you can go another step up with titanium bits,although they are generally not available in micro sizes that I know of.

Keep in mind Carbide bits are very brittle and will not take any side-load without breaking.  I use the carbide bits from Drill Bit City, but only in the drill press.  For the pin vise, only hss bits.  They are more forgiving if your hand is not rock steady.  I tried the carbide bits in my Dremel right angle accessory and just the kick at the start was enough side load to snap them.

Current build:  HMB Endeavour  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11299-hmb-endeavour-by-bizibilder-caldercraft-164-scale/#entry345837

Can you also share the file in .shapr format? If you don’t want to share it publicly, you can send it to support@shapr3d.com