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Mike Pekovich begins his dovetailing master class at the tablesaw, where he creates the tails quickly and efficiently using a sled and a custom-ground blade.
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Common nails are popular for general rough framing and construction, so also called "framing nails". Hot dipped galvanized nails are suitable for exterior use and direct exposure to weather, while, uncoated common steel nails will rust when exposed directly to weather.
Typesof construction nails
With its graceful curves, cabriole legs, and ornamental back splat, a Queen Anne side chair is a bucket list build for many woodworkers. Dan Faia had a very specific Queen…
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As always, great video! As informative and entertaining as ever. I do have a couple questions for Tom, though. I’ve seen Mike Peckovich use a specially ground dovetail blade as well, and I have been curious about the blades (tooth count/configure, brand, etc.) What kind do you use Tom? Is it a dovetail blade from birt, or a more traditional saw blade that you have ground to suit you needs? I have been trying to find a better bench lamp lately as well. I’ve been using an old drafting table style articulating lamp, but it’s cumbersome and too dim. What kind of lamp were you using hike cutting your pin board? Thanks in advance. Epic woodworking is my favorite YouTube subscription! We'll keep watching all the content here in the Philadelphia area!
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not to speak for tom, but i use forrest custom ground dovetail blades. i have two. one ground for 8:1 and the other for 6:1 ratios. they are 30 tooth rip blades that have been custom ground. i love forrest blades. they are very high quality and over the years i have spent a small fortune on the various blades and the dado set.
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The gaps in hand-cut dovetails result from not having perfectly vertical saw cuts. You use the first board as a template to scribe the layout on the second board. However, the face you are using as a template is not the face you see when the joint is put together. This is true whether you cut tails or pins first. The table saw method insures that the walls of the pin sockets (the tails) are square to the base line. You still have to cut the mating pins accurately by hand, but at least one variable has been eliminated.
Tom’s a fantastic presenter and although I’ve seen many dovetailing videos, it’s still a treat to watch someone as capable as he is go at it.
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Very much enjoying these videos with Tom McLaughlin. He has a wealth of knowledge and is an excellent instructor. I just wish they were longer at say 30 minutes instead of ten. Hey we’re woodworkers we can maintain focus for more than ten minutes!
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Common nails are the most widely used nail used in general construction and are the nail type used where building code requires certain framing construction. These nails have a thick shank and are made from iron wire. They are most commonly used with dimensional lumber. The common nail has a wide flat head having a smooth or textured surface and has a sharp diamond shaped point.
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It surely does help! Thanks a lot! I have heard good things about Ridge Carbide, and after hearing this, I will be giving them a try. I have an old high tooth count Forrest WoodworkerII that’s well past due for a sharpening, and planned to order a ww2 combo when I sent it in, but I believe I’ll go with the Ridge equivalent instead.
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In this master class episode, Tom McLaughlin demonstrates how he selects lumber and mills it to prepare for an almost invisible slip-matched panel joint.
A dovetail blade makes cutting dovetails on the tablesaw almost a no-brainer. Almost any blade can be reground by a good saw-sharpening service so that all the teeth are at a consistent angle, usually 7° to 12°. The tails are cut on the tablesaw with the blade tilted to match the slope of the dovetail and angled teeth. The pins are cut by hand. Because you are just cutting to a line, you can use any spacing, including asymmetrical. While you can use any blade to cut dovetails, this specially ground blade gives better results because the angled blade cuts right up to the baseline and leaves a flat, clean surface all the way into the corner with little to no cleanup required. To use it, I set the angle of the blade to 10° and raise the blade until it just touches the baseline. If I have set the blade correctly, the top of each cut is smooth and exactly parallel to the baseline and there’s very little paring to do. The real advantage of this system, aside from speed, is that each of the tails will come out dead straight and exactly square to the face of the board, which is critical before you can transfer the tails to the pin board.
that said, last year i needed a flat ground reversible grove set and because of the pandemic forrest was completely slammed. they could not fill my order for six months and i ultimately wound up cancelling it. in desperation i reached out to ridge carbide and they were happy to fill the order. i am glad that i did. ridge carbide blades are every bit as good as forrest at a significant discount.