Deburring Machines for Single and Double Sided Production - deburrer machine
If you want sizes from 1mm upward you could try Tracy Tools. https://www.tracytools.com/drills-hss/metric-straight-shank-drills/straight-shank-drills-10-30mm
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Black oxide coated drill bits are often carbon steel and now a days are typically at the lower end of the quality scale.
In my experience micro drills don't last long. If they don't get blunt they break so I usually order 10-20 drills of the same size, they are cheap and expendable.
There is a shorter drill bits called stubby or screw machine bits which due to being shorter are not as prone to breakage. I don't know if you can find wire gage or very small metric size screw machine bits as I have never looked for them.
A hole saw comes in the 60-piece set and is especially useful for cutting holes in doors or door locks and knobs, light figures, and even for crafty and creative projects, like this project I made using ceiling fan lights as candle holders. The hole saw was helpful in cutting 3 uniform holes evenly. Hole saws will allow you to cut holes easily anywhere from 1/2″ to 1-1/2″.
So this is where I am. I bought some of the jobber drills, did so before the warnings were posted. In hindsight I possibly bought too many, should have just tried one pack at first so may have wasted more money then necessary but in the grand scheme it is small change.
If you’ve ever chose the wrong driving bit to fasten a screw, you know how frustrating it is to strip the screw because you chose the wrong bit that’s too small or large. Stripping a screw is when the driver bit doesn’t fit on the screw head properly and the force of the rotating drill bit wears away at the head of the screw.
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If you want good quality bits you need to buy good brand name types like Dormer, Precision Twist Drill ( PTD ), KnKut, and Triumph are the ones I tend stick with in high speed steel ( HSS ) or cobalt.
If you’d like to get your hands on some of these drilling and driving kits, and to learn more about them, you can find all of these sets at The Home Depot.
So let’s review some important questions to ask to make sure you’re choosing the right size and shape when selecting a driving bit.
I have a set 20 micro drills ranging 0.3mm to 1.6mm - this is the ubiquitous set that you find anywhere from eBay sellers to bigger more respected sellers like Radio Spares with prices ranging from a couple of quid to a tenner or more. But regardless of the seller and the price they all seem to be the exact same product.
Agreed - and if they are bent then I will. But if they drill okay, even if they become blunt quickly then I won’t be bothered to return them.
If you’d like, you can use wood filler over this screw to hide it if you’re painting over it. But overall, it just looks neater/cleaner than having the screw sitting upon the wood surface.
You can distinguish between the two in that jobber drills will have a black finish left from the heat treatment process ground drills will be bright finished.
What I’m trying to get a handle on with whether the drills in the sets are junk and others may be better and last longer.
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Spoken to Proops and they advise that the drills in their assorted set of 20 are identical to the ones that they sell in individual sizes. I’d expect there to be some price advantage but not this massive.
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Each of them have similarities, such as the driving bits, but when you need drilling bits, and driving bits rated for impact drivers, it’s helpful to collect one or more of these to meet all of your building and creative needs.
Each screw has a gauge (which is the diameter of the screw body). They typically range from sizes 2 to 16. The #8 sized screw is most common. Just remember when sizing screws: the larger the number, the more thicker the screw and the smaller the number, the thinner the screw.
An impact driver is fantastic at driving fasteners much faster and with more power. As a result, you better believe you’ll need driving bits that are labeled “impact rated.” Bits that are impact rated means you can use them in a regular power drill or an impact driver.
But I tried a few and they are very blunt compared with what I had been using - I may as well use piano wire, probably no worse.
A jobber drill bit is actually a bit where the length of the flutes ( the twisted part ) is 10 times the diameter of the drill bit and has nothing to do with quality.
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Thanks, yes I have seen those, well ones in sets of 50. Some of the reviews stated that those sets (not the ones you linked) were even ariving with many of drills snapped.
As a result, you’re left with a screw that (if you’re lucky), you will be able to flip your drill into reverse and back slowly (or use a hand screwdriver to carefully remove it). Or you might even have to use a buy a spiral screw extractor set for those stripped screws.
Another alternative is Carbide drill bits that are used to drill circuit boards. They are very sharp and long lasting but they don't like any side force. If you even look at them sideways there will be a ping noise.
A hole saw is a great accessory for drilling holes, as well, because sometimes you want a hole that’s bigger and uniform without having to pull out a jigsaw.
If you want sizes from 1mm upward you could try Tracy Tools. https://www.tracytools.com/drills-hss/metric-straight-shank-drills/straight-shank-drills-10-30mm
I have drilled 24 holes, 12 into the figure plastic and 12 into 2mm MDF - moving onto the 13th figure I realise that the drill is now very blunt.
As for sizes, unless you've a particular size required, say for dirlling holes to be tapped to take a thread, you may find that ordering in steps of 0.2 mm gives the flexibility required/
For modelling the issues these cause are minimised when using a pin vice and hand drilling, put them in a power drill then the issues will escalate.
It’s helpful to use a hammer drill when drilling into concrete or masonry. While it can be done using a regular drill (as I was able to drill into concrete when I fixed my shutters), it is definitely a job more suited for a hammer drill.
As to whether the coatings affect drill quality there is some debate, but beware that coatings can be used to hide other shortcomings.
As for sizes, unless you've a particular size required, say for dirlling holes to be tapped to take a thread, you may find that ordering in steps of 0.2 mm gives the flexibility required/
The best of the microbox style bits I have found came from Proops Brothers. They're still generic Chinese but they are Titanium coated and seem to be lasting a bit longer than the usual ones. The packaging has changed but these are the ones I have
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Depending on the screw gauge, that will determine the size of the driving bit you’ll use. If you’re not sure of the size of the screw, you can use a screw thread checker like this one from Amazon.
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Now the bad news. Firstly, one of the bags only contained 4 drills (there should be 10) and I found a tear in the bottom of the bag so I guess they have been falling out. If that were the only problem it would be easily resolved.
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Sets from DeWalt, Milwaukee, Irwin, and other "house brands" are not made by themselves rather being outsourced and quality will vary accordingly.
Whether you’re using a power drill or a hammer drill, though, you need to use drill bits suited for masonry. You’ll notice that the heads are blunted, but with a hammer head to them.
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Rolled jobber drills are the lowest quality drills available, there's a clue being named 'jobber' they are intended to do one job then be discarded.
I didn’t know this, but this colorful coating seen around these impact rated bits (the band of yellow) indicate that this tip is impact rated. The design of the head and the coating helps to increase wear life.
But while a power drill (or impact driver) is easy to use, what’s not easy is knowing what all the different drill and driver bits are used for in those handy little kits. And it’s hard to know which one you’ll need to use.
This 60 piece Drilling and Driving Kit has a couple different types of drilling bits, including brad point drill bits (my favorite) for drilling wood and plastic with precision and for clean holes. That sharp tip will keep your drill bit in place so that it doesn’t “walk” when you start drilling.
So this is where I am. I bought some of the jobber drills, did so before the warnings were posted. In hindsight I possibly bought too many, should have just tried one pack at first so may have wasted more money then necessary but in the grand scheme it is small change.
I’ll be the first to admit that I’ve stripped my fair share of Phillips head screws because the driving bit was too skinny or too fat. It’s frustrating getting to the point where the poor driver bit just keeps spinning and you know that you better STOP and switch to a hand-held screw driver if you want to salvage what’s left of the screw! (….Or is that just me that does that??).
So when they arrive I will report back about what I think of them and how they compare with the set of 20 which are potentially titanium coated (based on their finish and colour).
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I’m happy to do that, but clearly don’t want to order 20 different sizes, so are there any sizes that you would recommend.
One of my favorite bits is the countersink bit. Whenever you want your fasteners to lie flush or slightly below the surface, this bit create a nice cone-shaped divot in the wood.
In my experience micro drills don't last long. If they don't get blunt they break so I usually order 10-20 drills of the same size, they are cheap and expendable.
Driver bits that are impact rated can withstand the high torque of an impact driver. Otherwise, you risk snapping your fasteners off clean in your project or risk breaking the bits. That’s what we don’t want!
Let’s talk about drill and drive bits and some other important accessories you’ll need in your DIY toolbox (and how to easily choose the correct one!).
Getting good results when driving screws is usually based on 1) choosing the right size and shape driving bit, 2) drilling a pilot hole when needed before driving a screw, and 3) using the right tool for the job.
I’m drilling plastic figures for pinning onto bases. The jobber ones just spin and make an indent at best. The Proops ones cut through the plastic like a hot knife through butter.
So unless you can get it down to there being only a couple of sizes that you use I can’t see the advantage of buying them singly.
They are usually made from plain carbon steels and size control, sharpness, straightness & true running are variable affecting hole quality, if you need them to drill accurately sized holes avoid them.
It’s possible to drill into wood, plastic, metal, masonry, and more. But the material you’re driving in to will determine which driving bit you’ll use. And there are different types of drilling bits, as well.
Since there are different types of driving bits for different types of screws: Phillips, slotted (also called flathead), square (also known as Roberston, hex, and torx), choose the right type of driving bit for the fastener you’re using.
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If you bought the drills via ebay, according to their rules and DSR you have the rights to return the drills for full refund if you find them unsatisfactory
In the tradition of you get what you pay for, it looks impressive, it seems great value for money but I have always assumed that they are made from Chinesium. And I have pretty much confirm this recently, when pinning some 28mm plastic wargaming soldiers for basing. Using a 0.75mm drill, I have drilled 24 holes, 12 into the figure plastic and 12 into 2mm MDF - moving onto the 13th figure I realise that the drill is now very blunt.
Another alternative is Carbide drill bits that are used to drill circuit boards. They are very sharp and long lasting but they don't like any side force. If you even look at them sideways there will be a ping noise.
A really nice overview of the difference between drivers and drills, and the various bits. Even though I’ve been doing this a while and learned a bunch of good stuff! Thanks, Serena!
A driving bit is used to fasten screws, nuts, or bolts in order to keep secure materials together. Some of the common drive bits you’ll find in a set include Phillips, Slotted (also knowns as flathead), Square (also known as Roberston), Hex, and Torx (hex not pictured in this set below).
Another alternative is Carbide drill bits that are used to drill circuit boards. They are very sharp and long lasting but they don't like any side force. If you even look at them sideways there will be a ping noise.
There are several sizes of Phillips driving bits, though (e.g. a small PH0….PH1, PH2, PH3, to a larger PH4, which these sizes are indicated on the side of the driving bit. “PH” stands for “Phillips.”). So you’ll need to choose the one that is seated completely into the head of the screw. One that is too small or too large will strip the screw, as I previously mentioned.
If you’re a DIYer like me who is always doing projects that involve drilling and driving, then these RYOBI drilling and driving kits are pretty important to have in your DIY toolbox.
When you become a homeowner, one of the first tools you buy for your homeowners toolbox is a power drill. It’s one of the simplest power tools to use. I guarantee that you’ll grab it for hanging curtain rods, adding or changing knobs on kitchen cabinets, putting furniture together, and you might even try your hand at building furniture for your new pad.
Wow those are cheap. What they are like - I don’t expect them to last long but at that price they are disposable - but are they sharp to start with and stay sharp for a reasonable time
A drill bit is a bit is used to drill holes, ranging from small to large. Some drill bits are made specifically for wood, plastic, metal, concrete, and more (we’ll talk about this in a moment). There are different types of drilling bits, which I’ll cover later. Keep readin’. ?
A driving and drilling set like this 60 piece Drilling and Driving Kit is a necessity because it has some items that the other two sets don’t have, such as:
So when they arrive I will report back about what I think of them and how they compare with the set of 20 which are potentially titanium coated (based on their finish and colour).
The three kits I’ll be featuring in this post can be found at Home Depot. These RYOBI drill and driver bit sets are pretty useful. Each have similar components but they all have something different amongst them, as well. They include:
This kit also has a set of black oxide drill bits that are pretty standard when drilling wood where precision and cleanliness isn’t that important.