So where does speed come into play? Drill models with a two-speed gearbox give you the option to run the drill at a high or low RPM, which in turn helps you find the ideal settings for your job. While a single-speed model will still have a torque selector, a two-speed gearbox provides that extra little bit of finesse. This is useful as higher speeds equal less torque.

The typical minimum chuck size is between 1–2mm, but it's not uncommon for manufacturers to only state the maximum size. Realistically though, you're unlikely to need a bit below 1mm for typical home tasks.

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4 flute mill-style Drill / End Mills have two flutes that come to center and two flutes that are cut back. This Drill / End Mill is designed for the same operations as the 2 flute style, but has a larger core in addition the higher flute count. The larger core gives the tool more strength and allows it to machine a harder range of materials. The additional flutes create more points of contact when machining, leading to better surface finish. AlTiN coating is offered on all 5 available angles (60°, 82°, 90°, 100°, and 120°) of this tool for great performance in a wide array of ferrous materials.

Harvey Tool currently offers Drill / End Mills in a variety of styles that can perform in different combinations of machining applications:

Lithium-ion (Li-ion) is the standard battery type that you'll find with almost all cordless drills. Capacity is measured in ampere hours (Ah) and generally speaking the higher the number, the longer the runtime.

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It's always worth checking out the range of skins being sold by each manufacturer as you can save a lot of money, and storage space, by staying in the same ecosystem. Of course, you should never buy an inferior product for the sake of convenience, but it may be a good option if you only need basic tools for home repairs and DIY.

You don't want your drill to be operating at maximum power all the time. Otherwise, you could overdrive the screw (aka push it in too far) or strip the head. For example, driving a screw into wood at full torque may overdrive the screw and split the wood.

The main difference between Drill / End Mill styles is the point geometry.  They are defined by how the flutes are designed on the end of the tool, using geometry typically seen on either an end mill or a drill.  While mill style tools follow the features of an end mill or chamfer mill, the drill style geometry uses an S-gash at the tip.  This lends strength to the tip of the tool, while giving it the ability to efficiently and accurately penetrate material axially.  While both styles are capable of OD milling, mill style tools will be better for chamfering operations, while drill style will excel in drilling.  The additional option of the Harvey Tool spiral tipped Drill / End Mill is an unprecedented design in the industry.  This tool combines end geometry taken from our helical flute chamfer cutters with a variable helix on the OD for enhanced performance. Versatility without sacrificing finish and optimal performance is the result.

This tool is specifically designed for the combination of milling, drilling, spotting and light duty chamfering applications in ferrous and non-ferrous materials. This line is offered with a 90°, 120°, and 140° included angle as well as AlTiN coating.

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Though the instructions (and a lot of experience) will help you identify the right torque and speed you need, there's a general rule: harder materials require more torque and less speed.

This tool is designed for chamfering, milling, drilling non-ferrous materials, and light duty spotting. Drilling and spotting operations are recommended only for tools with an included angle greater than 60°. This is a general rule for all drill mills with a 60° point. Harvey Tool stocks five different angles of 2 flute mill-style Drill / End Mills, which include 60°, 82°, 90°, 100° and 120°. They are offered with an AlTiN coating on all sizes as well as a TiB2 coating for cutting aluminum with a 60° and 90° angle.

Drill bits are available in a range of sizes (sold individually or in packs) that you swap out to suit the job. The chuck size indicates the minimum and maximum bit sizes that will fit in the drill. Both the bit and the chuck and measured in millimetres.

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The torque selector is a range of numbers that wraps around the head of the drill, up near the chuck. All you need to do is rotate it to match the ideal torque for the job. This stops you overdriving or snapping a screw. The clutch should slip when the torque on the screw gets too high, stopping the drill head from turning, so a wide range of clutch settings is useful.

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Once you insert the drill bit, all you need to do is rotate the chuck until it locks the bit in place. Older drills required a chuck key for this job but almost any recent model will have a keyless chuck that's much easier to use.

Choose from our selection of radius tools, including end mills and milling cutters, lathe tools, and more. In stock and ready to ship.

Light: you'd be surprised at how handy an onboard light can be, as you'll often find yourself working in small, cramped areas with poor lighting.

Charging cradle: this is an external mount to charge the battery. Particularly handy if you have two batteries, as one can charge while you use the other.

The ability of the Drill / End Mill to cut along the angled tip as well as the outer diameter gives it the range of operations seen above and makes it an excellent multi-functional tool.

Brushless motor: these are frictionless which makes them more energy-efficient and quieter. They're also compact, provide higher torque, have better speed control and performance efficiency.

Remember, don't focus on the bargain when it comes to buying what should be one of the most important parts of your DIY arsenal.

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Carry case: these are usually hard or soft. A hard case will protect the drill, battery and accessories but is heavier and bulkier.

The chuck is the part at the end of the drill where the drill bit goes. What's a drill bit? The thing that you stick in the chuck to drill holes or screws into things.

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The Helically Tipped Drill / End Mill offers superior performance in chamfering, milling and light duty spotting operations. The spiral tip design allows for exceptional chip evacuation and surface finish. This combined with an OD variable helix design to reduce chatter and harmonics makes this a valuable tool in any machine shop. It is offered in 60°, 90°, and 120° included angles and comes standard with the latest generation AlTiN Nano coating that offers superior hardness and heat resistance.

You can find all sorts of bits designed for specific tasks such as masonry or glasswork, and even wide diameter ones for drilling big holes. If you're unsure, it's best to speak to an expert at your local hardware store. Just remember to tell them the chuck size or better yet, take your drill in and fit the bit before you buy.

Beyond this you might also come across rotary hammers, which are essentially a heavy-duty version of the hammer drill and mostly used by tradies, as well as impact drivers, which are designed specifically for driving screws or loosening bolts.

As we all know, the one time you want to do a job quickly is the time you realise the battery in the drill is dead, so a second battery makes a lot of sense. As with many tools, it's a lot less expensive to buy a kit with two batteries than it is to buy an extra battery separately later on.

Most consumer-grade drills sold at big name retailers include batteries that can be used in other tools from the same manufacturer. Brands such as Ryobi, Bosch and Makita support this swappable system for other tools like line-trimmers, angle grinders and wet dry vacs. These are also known as "skins".

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You should also consider the claimed charge rate, especially if you're looking at a higher capacity battery. After all, you don't want to spend all afternoon waiting for it to recharge when there's work to be done.

Reversible direction: this is essential for removing screws from timber or other material. The rotation button or switch should be reachable with your thumb or forefinger without changing your grip.

Drill / End Mills are one of the most versatile tools in a machinist’s arsenal. These tools can perform a number of different operations, freeing space on your carousel and improving cycle times by limiting the need for tool changes. These operations include:

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The instruction manual should include a chart that shows you which bit sizes are suitable for certain materials. For example, the drill may have a maximum chuck size of 13mm, but recommends bit sizes of 10mm or less for drilling into metal. Bits sold separately will also have this information in the box.

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Without getting too scientific about it, torque is basically the force that the drill applies when rotating the bit. The amount of power required varies depending on the material you're drilling into, which is why drills have adjustable torque settings. But torque is also affected by the speed that the drill is operating at, which is why most drills also have a two-speed gearbox, measured in revolutions per minute.

Some people keep two drills, one for drilling and one for driving, as many projects involve both tasks. Many brands offer kits that include a drill/driver and an impact driver for this reason, or other combinations such as drill/driver and hammer drill.

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Most drills have a maximum chuck size of 13mm, which is large enough for typical home repairs. Smaller and cheaper drills often only have 10mm chucks, which might be enough if you just want to drill some small holes to hang pictures.

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A cordless drill is a must-have tool for the dedicated DIY-er or tradesperson. You'll want one with lots of power and torque for drilling and screw-driving into a range of materials, a battery pack (or two) with plenty of juice, and useful features such as multiple gear and speed settings.

Battery voltage – measured in volts (V) – is a guide to the power you can expect from the drill. More voltage equals better torque on paper, though our tests show that there's a lot more to performance than just the voltage.