I'll take a keyed shaft over a compression hub any day.  A keyed hub can pretty much always be removed later, but if a compression hub slips a bit under load it can and will weld itself to the shaft by friction galling and have to be cut off with a torch.  Seen it happen.

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Unless the shaft has a step, or is tapered, a locknut on the end won't do much for you.  But most sheaves have one or more set screws that tighten onto the shaft, usually one of them indexed over the keyway.  If you're not planning to really load the sheave heavily, you can cheat and just drill a dimple(s) in the shaft to accept the end of the grub screw (British term for set screw).

If things start to heat up, the pull-out method will save your bit from overheating (relax — I’m still talking about woodworking).

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has anyone had any luck cutting a keyway by hand with something like a muffler cutter?I have a 12 hp engine with a 1 inch shaft ,it has no keyway or the end of the shaft is not counterbored and threaded.it has outside threads,so I was thinking a half moon key so a pulley could be used and a locknut on the end.any thoughts Thanks Dave

Pick up a 3/16″ cape chisel from a hardware store or, preferably, an industrial supply.  You'll want to get a good one, not a cheap Harbor Freight one or you'll drive yourself crazy having to sharpen it every three cuts.  Take shallow cuts, just enough to peel a sliver up, until you get the trough properly established and then yu can be a bit more aggressive.  You want the finished keyway to be just a couple of thousandths more than 3/32″ deep.  Takes me about twenty minutes to cut one that way, and I've done dozens of them over the years.  I find it easier to do that than to horse a heavy motor up onto a mill table.  ?

I found it a bit funny – except for #1 and #4, these are all tips I use with my brace and auger bits. Makes sense, I suppose. I’m not a complete Neanderthal – thanks for that chart. I’ll post it next to my drill press.

Make the cut through this side, and you end up with a large diameter hole without having to remove as much material — meaning a lot less heat buildup.

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You don’t need to pull the bit all the way out of the hole. Just enough to let things cool off and evacuate any chips that are trapped at the bottom of the cut.

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When you flip the workpiece over, you should see a small hole where the spur of the forstner bit poked through (if you don’t, use an awl to punch it through).

In machine shop language, the pull out method is called “peck drilling” and is done for the same reasons, keep the heat down and clear the chips.

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This plunge and pull out technique keeps your bits from overheating the way they would if you were to continuously plunge all the way through a cut…

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All of the tapered hubs I've ever seen use keyways. The hubs have threaded holes to be used with “pusher” bolts for dissasembly.

Now install the bigger forstner bit in the drill press and position the workpiece so the spur of the bit is aligned with the hole in the tape.

taper lock hubs are used on machines where large horse power motors are used. In 25 years of running and repairing machine have i ever seen one slip that was installed correctly. The taper has a great amount of force that is applied to the shaft.

Turn on your drill press and slowly lower the bit so the spur goes into the divot. Loosen your grip on your workpiece slightly.

If you want to cut a through-hole with ultra clean edges on both sides, this technique works like a dream. And you don’t even need a backer board.

next to the threaded holes to remove the taper there are through holes that are threaded into the hub that pull the taper into the mating taper to lock on the shaft. Full diameter with the wedge of the taper holds a huge amount of force and can be used to with horsepower that the shaft can handle.

They should come out looking almost like shavings from a hand plane. If you’re seeing nothing but dust, you’re probably running the bit too fast.

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I know about this because I used one on the electric car I built.  Believe me, once it's on there you're not getting it off again.  MUCH better than a Woodruff key.

Start by lowering the bit until the tip of the spur slightly punctures your drill press table. Then set the stops on your drill press to that position.

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They make taper lock hubs for this kind of thing.  The piece with the outside taper as a split down the length of it.  That part goes on the shaft.  The piece with the taper on the inside mounts to the pulley and slides over the other piece on the shaft.  Bolts around the periphery pull the two pieces together and squeeze the shaft piece tight on the shaft.

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Place a strip of blue tape over the hole. Then insert whatever size bit you drilled the hole with and use the spur to poke a hole in the tape.

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This can feel like a catastrophic situation. How are you supposed to center a forstner bit when there’s no material to center the spur in?

My tip to avoid tearout is after centre punching the the position of the hole is to drill through with a 1.5-2mm twist drill. Then start off the hole from the frontside and drill 3/4 way through. Then turn the piece over and centre the point of the forster bit in the small hole and drill back. Even if the the holes do not quite line up, and they should, the mismatched edge in the middle of the piece can be lightly filed or sanded but is in a place where it can’t be seen. Learnt this as a kid in the 1950’s long before ‘blue tape’ ?

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In machine shop language, the pull out method is called “peck drilling” and is done for the same reasons, keep the heat down and clear the chips.

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My tip to avoid tearout is after centre punching the the position of the hole is to drill through with a 1.5-2mm twist drill. Then start off the hole from the frontside and drill 3/4 way through. Then turn the piece over and centre the point of the forster bit in the small hole and drill back. Even if the the holes do not quite line up, and they should, the mismatched edge in the middle of the piece can be lightly filed or sanded but is in a place where it can’t be seen. Learnt this as a kid in the 1950’s long before ‘blue tape’ ?

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Not only will these tips give you the best results. They’ll also help extend the life of your forstner bits for many projects to come.

This technique makes it SO easy to drill holes exactly where you want them (and is why I always keep a center punch in my apron).

Unless you have a milling machine I'd forget the half-moon (Woodruff) key and go with a straight square key.  It is reasonably easy to cut a keyway in that shaft using a good cape chisel.  That's the way it was done before milling machines and it still works.  A 3/16″ key would be appropriate for that size shaft, though you could use 1/4″ if you had to.  I think you'll find that most 1″ bore sheaves have a 3/16″ keyway, though.

You might end up with a round wafer-like disc in your hole. Just push it out, and you’ve got a hole with perfectly clean edges on both sides of your workpiece.

I found it a bit funny – except for #1 and #4, these are all tips I use with my brace and auger bits. Makes sense, I suppose. I’m not a complete Neanderthal – thanks for that chart. I’ll post it next to my drill press.

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