Cutter manufacturers often provide a recommendation for  “cutting speed,” usually in feet per minute. This is not always useful – it’s normally measured as cutting speed at the edge of the tool, which depends on both spindle speed and cutter diameter.

Once you have set up your mill drill machine, selected the right cutting tool for the job, correctly clamped your workpiece and indexed your mill drill machine, you only need to work out your milling speed and feed to be ready to start milling and drilling.

If every work session is different from the last one, and you don’t have long experience of cutter quality or workpiece material you have to think harder. If you have multiple machines, then you’ll also need to factor in the weight, rigidity and speed capabilities of your different machines to select the right one for the task. There’s a huge difference between a 10hp industrial machine and a 1hp benchtop machine.

This table is for HSS cutters. These are starting speeds, remember that cutter quality and sharpness vary and so does workpiece hardness even in the same materials. If you mill does not offer the recommended speeds then use the nearest speed possible. If you are using carbide cutters then you can run between two and four times faster than these speeds.

Until everything I read said that no, you don’t want to use 1/4″ shank bits. The 1/2″ shank bits have more metal in them, meaning they are far more stable, stronger and able to give cleaner cuts.

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Metal cutting band saw blade speed is related to feed rate and feed pressure, and customers often ask how to set up a bandsaw for the best cutting results. We have previously looked at installing and breaking in your metal cutting bandsaw blade, so here we’re going to look at how to get the best results by adjusting cutting speed.

It is not difficult to make perfect cuts with a high quality metal cutting band saw. Every cutting task is made easier by following the correct sequence of operations to ensure safe, efficient, clean and accurate cutting. Let’s look at how to operate your band saw machine to get the best results possible.

And, in many cases, proprietary router bits for jigs sometimes are available only with 1/4″ shanks. The Keller Dovetail Jig, for instance, uses 1/4″-shank bits for both the tails and pins. Since that's the case, replacement bits for these jigs need to be made to match.

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If you want to optimize your milling speed and feed, the quality of your mill drill will limit what you can do. As an experienced mill drill machine manufacturer, with excellent quality control, Rong Fu manufactures mill drill machines that help you achieve fine control of cutting speed and feed speed to get the best possible results.

For instance, I asked why anyone still made 1/4″-shank router bits at all. David Venditto, owner of Infinity Cutting Tools and an old hand at router bit technology, was able to explain that for small-diameter router bits, it would be wasteful to make those with a larger shank. For instance, we were using the instructor’s DeWalt 611 (no wonder I wanted one so badly) to do some hinge mortising. So, we went with a small down-cut spiral bit. That’s when I asked why spiral router bits that were 1/4" or 1/8" cutting diameter didn’t come with half inch shanks. He told me that there would be so much material removed from the shank, it would drive the cost up considerably, yet not provide any advantage.

The milling feed and speed you use will depend on the balance between these factors, and you will learn to optimize speed, tool selection and throughput to make the best compromise that keeps your milling and drilling cost effective. This is quite easy to balance if you generally work on very similar materials and products.

Standard practice is to feed the workpiece against the direction of movement of the cutting edge. If you look at the picture above, the cutter will be rotating counterclockwise, and the feed should be from right to left. This is called conventional milling, or ‘up milling.’

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Now you have a good idea of how fast your spindle should be turning, you need to think about what direction to move the workpiece to cut it. You have two choices, to feed the workpiece against the rotation of the cutter or with the rotation of the cutter.

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OK, maybe the announcement of the demise of the 1/4″-shank router bit was a bit premature. With this new generation of fully-featured compact routers, the 1/4″-shank router bit will probably see a renaissance. And, that’s OK with me!

When my mom gave me my first router for my birthday a bunch of years ago, it had a 1/4″ collet. She gave me a collection of some pretty useful 1/4″ shank bits to go along with it. That was totally awesome.

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The answer to these questions depends on three factors that affect your productivity: the quality and speed of output, and the lifespan of your cutting tools. It’s usually possible to cut faster and deeper, but this will increase tool wear and may reduce accuracy.

When you start using your mill drill machine, you might not have a good idea of the correct milling speed and feed settings to use. You will be wondering about feed speed and cutting speed, and how these will affect your work.

With these routers, you can rout small dadoes with just one hand. You can put a profile on an edge. You can do a ton of different jobs that would be too small, too delicate or too restricted for a bigger unit. The DeWalt also has some sweet features that other routers in its size range just can’t touch – LED lights in the base and both a plunge and fixed base. It’s router nirvana.

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Does anyone know if someone makes a round ball mold for aluminum or brass? Be nice to be able to cast brass balls for milling.

A good starting point is to use a simple table of spindle speeds cross referenced by workpiece material and cutter sizes. Keep in mind that the most common problems are due to running small cutters too slowly or large cutters too fast.

You can also move the workpiece in the same direction as the cutting edge, this is called climb milling or ‘down milling.’ The problem with the workpiece going in the same direction as the cutter is that the cutter tries to pull the workpiece along in the same direction. This can move the workpiece and possibly damage the cutter, so you should avoid climb milling if possible.

You might need to use a more expensive cutting tool to make faster cuts, but this can increase your productivity, so it might be cost effective. Fast cuts might reduce precision, but if you are not working to precise tolerances this might not be important.

I have had to find some good advice on going back to the 1/4″bits that I so hastily disposed of. Fortunately, I was recently at the Infinity Cutting Tool’s router basics class last month, where I had a lot of time to ask a bunch of what I thought were stupid questions, but were pretty darned smart after all.

Not so fast. I have recently come to kick myself for giving up the nice collection of bits I had amassed. I bought one of these – a DeWalt 611 multi-base trim (or compact) router. It’s called a trim router because, way back in the day, they were really only used by cabinet installers to trim laminate and do some light work on a job site. That was until woodworkers discovered just how handy these little babies really are.

If you are unsure of anything, then focus on spindle speed to get started. Spindle speed is the most important factor in establishing a balanced general milling speed and feed combination.

David was very clear when he explained that 1/2" shanks were far more preferable when removing larger amounts of material. And, even though some manufacturers do make bits such as stile and rail sets that have 1/4" shanks, it’s better to have more mass and strength in the bit to reduce chatter and prolong the life of the bit.

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Once you have set up speed and feed rate correctly, you usually find depth of cut by careful experimentation. It’s best to start with very shallow cuts, as little as 0.02″, using a slow table feed rate. You can then build both cut depth and feed rate slowly. When the machine begins to vibrate, cut back the speed and feed rate slightly and you should be at the optimum depth and speed of cut.

Another situation comes into play when you're trying to use edge-molding bits. For simple, small-radius roundovers, chamfers and the like, there is very little wood being removed. Since that is the case, the router doesn’t need to be a full-powered animal – a smaller, more maneuverable router could do the job just as well.

So, I laughed as I gave away most of my 1/4″ shank bits. I mean, I was on a mission to eliminate them from my router bit collection. After all, they were inferior, right?

Contact us to discover our range of mill drill machines based on excellence in design and manufacturing that guarantees accuracy and performance. We focus on precision and quality so you can achieve better productivity to higher standards in your milling and drilling projects.

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