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If things start to heat up, the pull-out method will save your bit from overheating (relax — I’m still talking about woodworking).

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In machine shop language, the pull out method is called “peck drilling” and is done for the same reasons, keep the heat down and clear the chips.

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This can feel like a catastrophic situation. How are you supposed to center a forstner bit when there’s no material to center the spur in?

Place a strip of blue tape over the hole. Then insert whatever size bit you drilled the hole with and use the spur to poke a hole in the tape.

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You don’t need to pull the bit all the way out of the hole. Just enough to let things cool off and evacuate any chips that are trapped at the bottom of the cut.

Now install the bigger forstner bit in the drill press and position the workpiece so the spur of the bit is aligned with the hole in the tape.

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In machine shop language, the pull out method is called “peck drilling” and is done for the same reasons, keep the heat down and clear the chips.

I found it a bit funny – except for #1 and #4, these are all tips I use with my brace and auger bits. Makes sense, I suppose. I’m not a complete Neanderthal – thanks for that chart. I’ll post it next to my drill press.

My tip to avoid tearout is after centre punching the the position of the hole is to drill through with a 1.5-2mm twist drill. Then start off the hole from the frontside and drill 3/4 way through. Then turn the piece over and centre the point of the forster bit in the small hole and drill back. Even if the the holes do not quite line up, and they should, the mismatched edge in the middle of the piece can be lightly filed or sanded but is in a place where it can’t be seen. Learnt this as a kid in the 1950’s long before ‘blue tape’ ?

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I found it a bit funny – except for #1 and #4, these are all tips I use with my brace and auger bits. Makes sense, I suppose. I’m not a complete Neanderthal – thanks for that chart. I’ll post it next to my drill press.

Make the cut through this side, and you end up with a large diameter hole without having to remove as much material — meaning a lot less heat buildup.

This plunge and pull out technique keeps your bits from overheating the way they would if you were to continuously plunge all the way through a cut…

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Not only will these tips give you the best results. They’ll also help extend the life of your forstner bits for many projects to come.

If you want to cut a through-hole with ultra clean edges on both sides, this technique works like a dream. And you don’t even need a backer board.

They should come out looking almost like shavings from a hand plane. If you’re seeing nothing but dust, you’re probably running the bit too fast.

When you flip the workpiece over, you should see a small hole where the spur of the forstner bit poked through (if you don’t, use an awl to punch it through).

You might end up with a round wafer-like disc in your hole. Just push it out, and you’ve got a hole with perfectly clean edges on both sides of your workpiece.

Start by lowering the bit until the tip of the spur slightly punctures your drill press table. Then set the stops on your drill press to that position.

This technique makes it SO easy to drill holes exactly where you want them (and is why I always keep a center punch in my apron).

My tip to avoid tearout is after centre punching the the position of the hole is to drill through with a 1.5-2mm twist drill. Then start off the hole from the frontside and drill 3/4 way through. Then turn the piece over and centre the point of the forster bit in the small hole and drill back. Even if the the holes do not quite line up, and they should, the mismatched edge in the middle of the piece can be lightly filed or sanded but is in a place where it can’t be seen. Learnt this as a kid in the 1950’s long before ‘blue tape’ ?

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Turn on your drill press and slowly lower the bit so the spur goes into the divot. Loosen your grip on your workpiece slightly.