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We are still far from achieving circularity in the textile industry. Meanwhile, there are many misconceptions and cold facts about recycling worth pondering:

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PIR refers to materials that are recycled from industrial processes. This includes leftover fabric scraps, trimmings, and other waste generated during the manufacturing of textiles and garments.

The following chart from National Institute of Standards and Technology illustrates that much less than 1% of post consumer textiles can be considered fiber-to-fiber recycled in the US.

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When it comes to recycled textiles, it’s crucial to understand the difference between Post Industrial Recycling (PIR) and Post Consumer Recycling (PCR). Many consumers mistakenly believe that “made from recycled materials” means that the apparel they are buying is made from recycled consumer textiles—like a T-shirt or jeans that have been worn, discarded, and then recycled into a new garment. However, this is rarely the case. The reality is that “recycled” almost never means recycled post-consumer clothing. Most of the time, it refers to post-industrial recycling, or at best, it may include some materials that have integrated post-consumer recycling of plastic bottles.

PTA Process is a newer method that requires recrystallization, making it low-energy and more cost-effective. Circ is one company that has made great strides in this technology and are in the process of building out their first commercial plant.

Physical or thermal recycling involves melting and re-extruding PET waste into new fibers or products. This method is particularly suitable for thermoplastic fibers such as polyester, nylon, and polypropylene. The process involves a degree of molecular level adjustment thus it is capable of producing high-quality fibers that are close to virgin quality.

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In the pursuit of textile circularity, three distinct recycling approaches have emerged: mechanical, physical and chemical. While all aim to breathe new life into textile waste, their methodologies and outcomes differ significantly.

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This article serves as a primer on the various recycling methods of today. From mechanical processes that breathe new life into synthetic fibers to chemical techniques that break down polymers into their molecular building blocks, we’ll explore today’s options and some new advancements. Our goal is to educate and empower you with knowledge about textile recycling, enabling informed choices that contribute to a more sustainable future for the fashion industry and our planet.

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While our primary technology at NTX deals with waterless textile coloration, we understand that achieving true sustainability in the textile industry requires a multifaceted approach. The holy grail is circularity – a closed-loop system where the same molecules are worn, recycled or reclaimed and reborn into new garments, over and over again, until infinity. Although recycling today is far from where it needs to be, exciting innovations in textile recycling are paving the way towards this vision of circularity.

This technique has been popular for the past 20 years, but it faces a few  challenges. The biggest issue is sourcing, which typically relies on single-use plastic bottles. There is competition for this source from bottling manufacturers, who are increasingly required to use recycled materials. Additionally, the infrastructure for this recycling method is limited to certain regions. While Taiwan, Japan, South Korea, and Germany have the necessary facilities, costs associated with managing recycling in Germany have risen. China remains the largest source of recycled PET. Moreover, regulatory bodies now mandate that for  textile  products to be labeled as made from recycled goods, the input materials need to  be textile-based – nullifying physical/thermal recycling for textile purposes; thus adding complexity for textile manufacturers.

Chemical recycling goes all the way, breaking down polymer chains into their chemical building blocks (monomers) through a variety of processes; popular methods are hydrolysis, glycolysis, or methanolysis. This method allows for the recovery of original monomers, which can be purified and re-polymerized into virgin-quality polymers. Although more complex and capital-intensive than mechanical recycling or thermal recycling, chemical recycling can handle a wider variety of textile waste, including mixed and contaminated fabrics while resulting in true virgin grade fibers/filaments.

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To mitigate these issues, it is crucial to accelerate our efforts towards true recycling and circularity. Real recycling—such as fiber-to-fiber recycling—enables the continuous reuse of materials, reducing the need for virgin resources and minimizing waste. By supporting and investing in advanced recycling technologies, we can move closer to a sustainable and circular textile industry. This shift not only helps the environment but also promotes a more responsible and conscientious fashion industry.

PCR involves recycling materials that have already been used by consumers. This process is more complex due to the need to collect, sort, and clean the materials, which can be contaminated with various substances.

DMT PROCESS VIA methanolysis is an older method that involves breaking down PET into dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) through methanolysis followed by high energy distillation to purify DMT monomer. This is then followed by esterification with monoethylene glycol (MEG) to produce PET.

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Chemical recycling is considered true recycling (closed-loop) because it breaks down polymer chains and re-polymerizes them into original lengths, making the final product chemically indistinguishable from virgin materials. While, in theory, raw materials can come from any source, practical limitations exist.

Mechanical recycling involves mechanical processes such as shredding and re-spinning fibers. This method is relatively simple and cost-effective but typically results in downcycling, where the recycled fibers are of much lower quality than virgin fibers/filaments/yarns. Mechanical recycling is often used for materials like polyester obtained from industrial waste, which can be reprocessed into products like insulation, carpet or seat cushion fill, and low-grade textiles.