Hike Through Santa Cruz County History - barrel mill area

2024-07-31 11:51:10

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We recently started carrying a slab flattening bit from CMT that has 4-sided cutterheads that can be rotated to a fresh edge when they get dull.

If the cutting length on your regular flush trim bit is 1”, you’d have to start with a bottom bearing pattern bit — then switch to the flush trim.

Just as you do, one trim router is chucked with a 1/8” round over bit, and to blow your mind completely, another with a classic Ogee, which gets used more than any of the multiple bits I own. Building McMansions for well over 30 years you’ be surprised at how useful an Ogee is, most of the garages have multiple wall openers, multiple hook racks over built in mud and laundry rooms, you get the picture! Upcut spirals are constantly used for mortises, when multiple passes are usually required , but safety concerns and damage to work concerns are often eliminated when using. As an old school guy, long before the pre-everything…days, life for we old wood-butchers has changed dramatically for the better. Keep up the excellent service for today’s newbies, your teaching skills are outstanding!!

These are the first bits I’d invest in if I were to start from scratch. So hopefully it helps guide you through the infinite amount of options.

If you need to plunge, however, an upcut bit is the best. And it lets you clear a ton of material quickly. If you need to clear a bulk of waste for a butterfly key or mortise, upcut bits are the best.

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And what’s great about 45° chamfer bits is you can cut chamfers and bevels of various sizes with a single bit. All you need to do is adjust the depth of cut.

For heavy routing work where I’m removing a lot of material, I always choose ½” shank bits. The thicker diameter makes them less likely to flex under heavy forces.

If you can only choose one, I’d go with a compression bit for the versatility. Just know that the upcut portion of the bit has to be deeper than the surface of the wood for it to work as intended.

The shank is the smooth shaft you insert into the collet of your router. And it’s important that the shank and collet match.

Most people start off by buying a big set with a ton of different bits. And this can be a good way to learn which ones are most useful to you.

Thanks as always for this super-helpful info Jonathan! I need to buy a flush-trim/pattern bit for a project and am debating between the “affordable” CMT and the BitsBits compression bits. How different is the performance between the two? I’m sure the BB bit is better, but 3x or 4x better?

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These babies sold out in a single day on our first release. So if you want to get your hands on one, order it on presale now! (Ships in 6-10 weeks).

They’re used for cutting grooves, dados, and rabbets — but can also be used for clearing waste for inlays and even flush trimming.

You are a good teacher and business man. . .I have purchased several of your products over the last year and so far I haven’t been disappointed with the quality or price. Your teaching style is clear and understandable and other than your choice of music (I like Jazz) ?‍♂️), your’s is my favorite woodworking channel on YouTube. I intend to be a more regular customer of your excellent products in the future.

I have a trim router where I keep an ⅛” roundover bit installed at all times. Whenever I need to break an edge, I just grab it and go.

The best double-bearing flush trim bits have a compression flute design that gives you a clean, tearout-free cut on both sides of a workpiece.

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Also, noticed that your coupon code on bitsbits.com only takes a 10% discount (but Malecki’s coupon gives a full 15%). Figured you’d want to know.

Obviously not everyone has this luxury (I’ve got over 10 trim routers in my shop for testing the jig we launched with Tamar). But it lets me quickly break edges with zero set up time.

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They also help avoid the need for climb cuts when dealing with tricky grain direction, since you can just flip a piece over and use the other bit.

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Trim routers (a.k.a. Compact or palm routers) usually take ¼” shanks. These smaller routers are less powerful, hovering around 1 hp. But they’re great for small detailed work.

Have not enjoyed router work so far. I’ve got an old (circa 1990) craftsman router that is a constant fight to get a nice job. Late last month I broke down and bought the pieces to build out a Kreg table using their lift and Dewalt’s bare motor. Right now I’m still building it, parts are all over my living room. One of the first things I need to do is break the razor sharp edge off some 1/8" acrylic sheets. I was planning to use a 1/16 round over but you indicate your preference is 1/8 round over for breaking an edge. Thoughts?

The first one I’d get is an ⅛” roundover. From there, I’d get a set with ¼”, ⅜”, and ½” radii. That’ll cover most of your roundover needs (here’s a roundover bit set we carry).

The difference between compression, downcut, and upcut spiral bits has to do with the flute design — or how the cutting edges wrap around the bit.

The profile it cuts is really subtle, but works perfectly to get rid of sharp edges on a board without changing the look too much.

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Rabbeting bits are a little trickier to classify. They work like edge profiling bits, but they’re more functional than decorative. They’re used to cut (you guessed it) rabbets along the edge of a board.

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I’ve been using this ultimate flush trim bit from BitsBits for years and I love it (15% discount with code JKATZMOSES15).

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Also, noticed that your coupon code on bitsbits.com only takes a 10% discount (but Malecki’s coupon gives a full 15%). Figured you’d want to know.

For these types of bits, it’s best to only buy them as you need them. Otherwise, you’ll have a whole collection of odd bits you never use.

A downcut spiral bit is what I mostly use on the CNC. Since the cutting motion is away from the tool, it helps keep everything flat on the table.

But ¼” shank bits in a trim router are excellent for light or detailed work. Things like light chamfers and roundovers, butterfly keys and inlays, and even detailed sign making.

These are the best of both worlds, and allow you to flush trim extra thick pieces of wood. Otherwise, you’d need to switch between a flush trim and pattern bit.

The bearing rides along a reference edge, letting you cut another piece of wood perfectly flush to that reference. If you do template routing, you’ll use a flush trim or pattern bit.

By being able to switch between the top and bottom bearing, you’re able to deal with tricky grain direction and extra thick boards — all with one bit.