Some people refer to an impact driver as an impact drill. 10 years ago, we might have argued that it’s the wrong term. However, today there are 1/4-inch hex shank drill bits specifically designed to work with your impact driver. Technically, that makes it an impact drill.

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Three warnings, though. All-metal chucks are pretty durable, but you can damage plastic ones with your adjustable pliers if you put too much force on the chuck.

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Finally, never, ever try to loosen the chuck by clamping it in a vice and pulling the trigger. With the force of some of today’s drills, even the strongest Pros don’t have the hand strength to keep the drill from whipping around and hurting their wrist and elbow.

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First, set the tip of the drill’s key into the matching hole on the chuck. You might have to give it a little turn so the teeth are able to slip together. From there, turn the key clockwise to loosen the chuck and counterclockwise to tighten it.

There are also collets with active bit ejection. They have a spring that pushes the bit out when you pull the collet so you don’t have to put your hands on a hot drill or driver bit.

Some impact drivers have upgrades that make the process even easier. There are designs with one-hand bit insertion that let you slide the bit in without having to pull the collet.

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Instead of a chuck, an impact driver has a collet at the front. To change a drill bit, pull the outer part of the collet out to release the bit that’s in there. You also pull it out to install a new one. Easy peasy.

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Keyless chucks tighten and loosen by simply spinning the chuck’s outer housing. As you’re holding the drill with the chuck pointing away from you, spinning it counterclockwise tightens the jaws around your drill bit, and spinning it clockwise loosens it.

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Pro Tip: If you change a drill bit and it wobbles funny when you pull the trigger, it might not be centered between the jaws. Loosen the chuck and make sure all the teeth are engaging the bit as you clamp them back down.

By far the most common type of drill chuck today is a keyless chuck. Chances are, the answer to your question is in this section. Unlike your dad or grandpa’s old drill that had a funky-shaped key clamped to the cord, keyless chucks require no tools at all.

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When you’re installing a bit for the first time, loosen the chuck (clockwise) until it’s just wide enough to slip the drill bit into it. Then tighten it (counterclockwise) until you feel it begin to resist and then tighten a little more.

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Sometimes, a drill chuck can be so tight on a drill bit that it’s difficult to loosen it. In this case, your best bet is to grab a pair of adjustable pliers (Channellocks). Set them to a width that grabs the outside of the chuck and use the additional leverage from the handles to loosen it.

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Even though most modern chucks are keyless, there are some keyed models running around. The overall principle is similar, though.

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Learning how to change a drill bit is very similar whether you have a Milwaukee, DeWalt, Black & Decker, Craftsman, Ryobi, or another brand of drill. However, there are several types depending on how you’re using the term “drill”. No matter what type you have, this guide can teach you what you need to know.

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The micrographs below show the effect of annealing at different temperatures on a sample of Fe - 0.7 wt % C steel in which martensite has been formed by quenching. Because of the low carbon content the martensite is relatively dispersed. In this tempering process, martensite precipitates Fe3C in an a-iron matrix and the micrographs show how the cementite phase changes its shape to minimize its surface to volume ratio. The ideal final morphology would be spherical cementite particles in the matrix and this class of tempered martensite is known as spheroidite. They have less elastic strain than martensite and the carbide phase is more dispersed giving a more ductile material.Pearlite and bainite can also have their cementite morphology changed to this spheroidite structure by tempering, but the process requires a longer time.

Some drill chucks have a ratcheting mechanism to help. If your drill does, you’ll feel and hear it clicking as the jaws tighten around the bit.

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