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It is already stated that up milling is rather hard and rough machining. Thus, it is typically required for milling, casting, and forging.  Some extra tough materials such as titanium, bronze, or stainless steel are machined by up milling because such processes enable them to apply more force to a component.

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“Knits and wovens. They are your basic fabrics, and they react completely differently,” says Tabitha Holmes, owner of House of Holmes, a cuts and sewing manufacturer in Mesa, Arizona. “Knits are comfortable and soft. Moveable and bendable. They adhere to your body and move with it. They are the comfort food of fabrics,” she jokes. “But woven fabrics can be more structured, more angular. They serve the purpose of strengthening the form and function of your clothing.”

There is a golden rule of milling. It is thick to thin. In other words, starting from rough cuts and large chips being removed, the process ends with precise cuts and thin chips. While up milling hardly enables manufacturers to follow the rule, down milling responds to it perfectly.

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Down milling is the second and last method of arranging both a cutter and a workpiece. In this case, rotation of tolling is the same as the direction of a raw component’s feeding.

Whether you already know your way around a home sewing machine or not, if you have an interest in learning industry machines, this course is for you. To step up to professional garment making, you’ll want to have a good working knowledge of industrial machines and what they do.Â

However, a handful of targeted programs are available to develop these beginner skills, such as ASU CareerCatalyst. ASU offers a new program, Transforming Fashion Manufacturing, designed in partnership with the School of Art and Herberger Institute for Design and the Arts. It offers self-paced online courses to help develop practical skills in industrial sewing and digital technical design.

Technically, the movement of a worktable is not crucial. You may find similar methods as described in other manufacturing operations. Just stick to rotating along the feed direction, or in the opposite direction. In essence, with proper settings, moving a worktable and a cutting tool, or one of them only does not impact the quality of milling.

They are classified by their type (bound, plain, flat, lapped) and position in the finished garment (inseam, side seam, center back seam). If you can read cross-section diagrams of seam types, and show you know when to use a particular type and why, you’re on your way to becoming a professional apparel production machinist.

We hope that you are not confused with us showcasing infographics with pointing out the direction of a workpiece feeding.  In a broad sense, milling is shaping a stationary workpiece with a movable cutting tool.

As a result, the surface quality of a component manufactured with the use of down milling will always be on a completely another level than such with up milling.

Basically, power is the last concern of factories’ owners. However, in case you are curious, we may reveal this secret to you based on our experience. Power consumption during up milling slightly exceeds down milling consumption.

Connect with ASU to learn how you can develop the fashion manufacturing skills you need to enter into the clothing manufacturing industry.

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It is explained with the rubbing action of more friction, which requires more energy. The difference is not worth paying attention to, but it is still present.

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Sewing machinist professionals and their employers often find it difficult to locate the training resources to acquire entry-level skills. Beginning employees can sometimes learn on the job, but employers often cannot provide formal training to inexperienced sewers.Â

So, let’s get down to business. Up milling is the first method of arranging a cutting tool, or cutter, and the direction of a workpiece movement. You may have heard of up milling as conventional or climb up milling. It is so because a cutter moves against a workpiece being fed directly on it, as a cutting tool is climbing on a mountain. You can see examples of both up and down milling in the infographics below.

A clamping device holds a workpiece, and the material is removed by flutes (sharp cutting edges) of tooling. Nowadays, milling and other manufacturing procedures are mostly performed by computer numerical controlled (CNC) machines. Sounds easy, isn’t it?

In as few as one skills-focused course, you can quickly get up to speed and ready for entry into the fashion apparel production industry. Both employers and those interested in becoming professional apparel production machinists benefit from the hands-on training available in the Transforming Fashion Manufacturing program.

To begin with, let’s recall general information about milling. It is a widespread machining process that involves the use of rotating cutting tools. Such tooling is intended to interact with a workpiece and shape by cutting off small pieces (ships) of metal from its surfaces.

“A good sewing machinist knows not only the major seam types, but how to use a particular seam join and why,” Holmes says. “There’s an element of engineering to it, but it’s the key to making a good quality garment that lasts.”

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To sum up, up milling is great, and potentially, the only choice for machining tough metals. This method is also more suitable for rough cuts due to the opposite character of a workpiece and a cutter’s movements.

What is also great about down milling is that it causes less friction. As a result, there is no extra tension and no large amounts of heat that may partially deteriorate surfaces of some metals with low melting points.

You may have heard of milling as of climb-down milling. If you take a look at the infographics above, you can see that the direction of a cutter’s movement is like a man climbing down a mountain.

In contrast, down milling is a more gentle process, typically applied under low tension and low friction to soft metals such as aluminum and its alloys. Even relatively cheap tooling may last for a longer period if used in down milling, compared to up milling.

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In case you require great finishing, need to cut soft metals like aluminum alloys, or just thrifty, down milling will suit you much better.

“Once you try an industrial machine you are not going to want to go back to a home machine,” Holmes says. “They go so fast and they’re so accurate! You can become very spoiled learning how to work an industrial machine.”Â

This one is simple. Up milling requires high forces to be applied to a workpiece. Apparently, it increases the tension that a cutter experiences. Additionally, friction conceives extra heat, which also deteriorates tooling. As a result, even expensive cutters may have their sharpness reduced or even break shortly.

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But it takes practice, Holmes advises. “Unless you sit and practice over and over again, you can’t become proficient with it.”Â

Sawing, grooving, slotting, keyway cutting, and other similar operations are also included in the scope of applications of down milling. Most frequently, materials such as aluminum, with a low melting point and low hardness, are to be machined with the use of up milling.

The described types of milling have substantial differences that make manufacturers pick a process for a particular component.

While moving a workpiece into a stationary cutter is called turning. Up and down milling may imply that a cutter rotates and is fed simultaneously in the same direction or in the opposite. It is still these two milling processes, but with a stationary workpiece.

There is high demand for skilled sewing machinists, and it doesn’t take much experience to get started in apparel production. All you need is access to industrial sewing machines, fabrics to practice with and entry-level knowledge of a few essential skills.

Get acquainted with basic machine operation and maintenance processes. The more familiar you are, the better you will be able to practice and refine your skills to meet industry standards for speed and efficiency, and the more valuable you will become as an entry-level sewing machinist.

And, there is no risk of surface deterioration because of melting of excessive physical force. In contrast, down milling is a thinner and even soft process. It is generally used for finishing operations, as it offers greater smoothness than up milling does.

In the garment making craft, fabric is your raw material. You want to recognize and identify the different types of fabric, and know how to work with them properly. Before you apply for a job as a sewing machinist, familiarize yourself with fabric composition types.Â

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Seams join two or more fabrics together to create a garment. You can’t construct clothing without them! “But you don’t want to use the wrong stitch for the wrong fabric,” Holmes warns. “Especially for knits, if you use the wrong kind of stitch, your garment will fall apart.”

Generally, under certain circumstances and with proper settings adjustment, both types of processes can offer great surface smoothness. However, up milling is not fully designed for great finishes, as just opposite directions of movement of a workpiece and a rotating tool make it almost impossible to cut off the thinnest pieces.

In contrast, down milling is intended to apply lower forces, cut thinner metal chips, and work with metal that is often required to be polished to perfection.

Want to know a secret? Every fourth confuse left and right. Our experience shows that differentiating up from down milling is even a more complicated nuance.

We visualized these two CNC milling processes in this post so you will never confuse them again. But in case you lack extra information about technical differences between up and down milling, we have also got you covered.