Milling aluminiumspeeds and feeds

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Me, I never use C3D numbers. I do them myself, starting with G-Wizard recommendations. I factor in deflection so my rates tend to be lower than some but I get a great finish.

All I cut is Alu,mainly T6,I use a combination of a 3mm 2flute 45 Helix cutter at 16000-17000 Rpm with a .17mm DoP with a feed of 400mm/min,Alu I find favours a thin and fast approach rather than the Ron Jeremy Deep and Slow,I finish with about 200-250 mm/min,similar to Marks approach.

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In some cases there will be adjustments for the amount of motion smoothing. Feel free to experiment to see what gives you the best combination between detail and smooth motion. Fully off is what we recommend for movies and fiction TV shows.

Filmmakers, widely, do not like it. Tom Cruise and director Christopher McQuarrie, for example, want you to turn off the soap opera effect when you watch movies. They even made a video about it back in 2018 and appended it as a sort of video-quality PSA.

Feeds and speeds has a solid basis in physics and mathematics. The feed rate and RPM must be coupled properly for the available spindle torque to obtain a clean and optimal result. Too slow a feed and the end mill may not be cutting anything… until a step occurs… and you get a racket.

Aluminummilling speed chart

If you're ever wondered why new TVs look "weird," like everything is "too realistic" or "too smooth," you're not alone. In fact, most new TVs default to a mode that does this on purpose. It's not the resolution, though the change did happen around the time 4K TVs were becoming more common. Colloquially, it's called the "soap opera effect," and while some people don't notice it, and some even like it, many of us absolutely hate it.

The soap opera effect is actually a feature of many modern televisions. It looks like hyperreal, ultrasmooth motion. It shows up best in pans and camera movement, although many viewers can see it in any motion. The effect is potentially welcome for some kinds of video, such as sports and reality TV. But movies, high-end scripted TV shows and many other kinds of video look -- according to most viewers, and directors who actually create the movies and shows -- worse when it's applied by the TV.

Speeds and feedscalculator

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Step 1: Put the TV in Filmmaker, Movie, Cinema or Calibrated mode. On most TVs this will not only eliminate or greatly reduce smoothing, it will make the picture more accurate in general, particularly colors. If Movie looks too dark, feel free to turn up the Backlight or Brightness (on LCD TVs) or OLED Light (on LG OLED TVs) until it's bright enough for you.

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This motion "whatever" was ostensibly developed to help decrease apparent motion blur on LCDs. All LCD-based TVs -- which these days is any TV that's not OLED -- have difficulty with motion resolution. That means that any object onscreen that's in motion will be less detailed (slightly blurry) compared with that same object when stationary. High-refresh-rate (120Hz and 240Hz) LCDs were developed in part to combat this problem.

There’s not a lot of threads about feedrates and cutter speeds yet, but it sounds like the 8-16ips @5000-10000rpm 0.01DOC in aluminum seems to be at least working for people.

I rough 6061T6 on the Nomad @ 20 IPM, 10K RPM using 2 flute, ZrN/TiB2 coated end mills. The Nomad cannot use 0.25" end mills effectively for metals. I don’t even suggest trying.

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Copperspeeds and feeds

After my test cuts and plugging in the values to a SFM and chipload calculator my next test was going to be 10krpm 20IPM so it sounds like that’s a good combination.

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Also worth pointing out that cutter diameter is crucial to material removal and ejection which is directly linked to the cut speeds you can attain,the larger the better.

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However, with 24fps content -- namely Hollywood movies and most TV shows like sitcoms and dramas that aren't reality TV or soap operas -- there's a problem. The cadence of film, and the associated blurring of the slower frame rate's image, is linked to the perception of fiction. Check out the scathing reviews of the high-frame-rate version of 2012's The Hobbit for proof of that. Even if this perception seems grandiose, the look of 24fps is expected with movies and fiction TV shows. Even though the TV and movie industries have long since moved away from shooting on actual film, the new digital cameras are set for 24fps because the audience for fictional programming expects that look.

Sorry I’m using the 1/8" two flute endmill that came with my Nomad 883 pro. They’re uncoated. I’m cutting 6061 (not sure if it’s -T6). I’m very willing to buy different cutters if it’ll get better results. especially faster roughing. I’m also willing to change alloy.

After my test cuts and plugging in the values to a SFM and chipload calculator my next test was going to be 10krpm 20IPM so it sounds like that’s a good combination. What depth of cut do you use? Do you recommend any specific end mills?

ZrN or TiB2 will allow modest improvements in speeds and will increase the life of the end mill. Well worth the extra expense. C3D stuff is pretty good… but one can do a fair amount better. More below.

CNC feed rate foraluminum

Cast ironspeeds and feeds

The most common variants all machine similarly. Let’s ignore this for now. In general, one needs to know the specifics of the metal they are machining. My 6061 is 6061-T6511 (the 511 is getting super specific; not pertinent to this issue). Better to know than to not know… knowing allows for optimizations.

The short version: In order for high-refresh-rate TVs to be most effective, they need new, real frames to insert between the original frames.

The bad news: Every TV company has a different name for their motion interpolation processing. And in most default picture modes it's turned on. Why? Maybe because TV-makers want to justify the extra price you paid for a TV with this feature built-in. Ah, progress.

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SOE messes with this cadence. By creating new frames between the 24 original frames, it causes it to look like 30fps or 60fps content. In other words, it makes movies (24fps) look like soap operas (30/60fps).

Aluminumfeed rate calculator

Most of these names have remained consistent over the last few years that smoothing features have been around, so if you have an earlier TV from one of these brands, you should be able to find the smoothing function with some digging.

It also depends on what you are asking it to do,I do a lot of thin panel work so my technique is focused towards that,I have to work around panel lift as the center of the stock is normally unfixed and can be lifted by cutter action.

Step 2: Make sure smoothing is actually off. Some TVs keep the soap opera effect turned on even in Movie or Cinema mode. Not cool. Here's what several companies call their motion interpolation features. These can be found in the picture adjustment menus, often in deeper menus called "Advanced" or " Expert."

The more accurate description of this "feature" is motion smoothing, though it's also called motion interpolation, motion estimation or motion compensation. Every TV manufacturer has their own name for it, but it usually has one or more of those words in the name. Most new TVs have this tech and, thankfully, you can turn it off.

I’ve been cutting 6061-T6 on my Nomad 883 Pro with Lakeshore Carbide 1/8’’ two flute ZrN endmill with a feedrate of 12ipm @8000rpm and a 0.01in DOC. It is sometimes very loud (especially in some directions weirdly). So it seems like I am going too slow according to your recommendation.

No matter which TV you have, it's worth getting to know where this setting is. It's possible you'll want it on when you're watching sports or other "video"-based content (30fps or 60fps). Then, for movies and fictional TV programming, you can turn it off. This will give you the best-of-both worlds approach with minimal motion blur with sports, and no SOE with movies.

for 1/16, 1/8, and 1/4 end mills it recommends 9000RPM for them all and feed rates of 13, 36, and 18 IPS respectively. the 36 IPM seems a bit fast relative to what I read people here using. Does anyone cut that fast?

Cutting speed foraluminumwith carbide

EDIT: Oh, also do you have any recommend settings for a finishing pass? Specifically for getting the best top surface quality?

Will it be a good idea to have a thread for feedrates? I think it will help a lot for people who are new to CNC. I have made mistakes and broke cutters (1/32’') when I went too fast and it seems I am going too slow now.

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Adding in deflection to the equations ensures that secondary and tertiary effects do not create problems… and tool life is improved.

No need. 6061 is awesome. In the future, for general work, T6 is an excellent choice. T6 is very common so I wouldn’t be surprised that you have it. I would stay away from T1 until you’ve got some experience - and need it.

Many newer TVs even have a special picture mode, called Filmmaker Mode, that among other effects is designed to make sure there's no soap opera effect turned on.

Thanks to speedy processors, TVs can "guess" what's happening between the frames captured by the camera originally. These new frames are a hybrid of the frame before and the frame after. By creating these frames, motion blur is reduced. With 30 and 60 frame-per-second content, this is great. Content like sports has better detail with motion, and there are minimal side effects, beyond errors and artifacts possible with cheaper or lesser motion interpolation processing.

I did try 12(@10krpm), 16, and 24 IPM. For me 12 IPM was the worst. It was VERY noisy/chattery. 16 sounded pretty good and 24 was a bit loud but not too bad. They all had comparable surface finishes.

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You're not the only one who doesn't like this mode. Many people don't like it, but just figure that's how modern TVs look. Most TV reviewers don't like it. Hollywood filmmakers don't like it either, since the TV is making changes to the image they never intended. So here's what it is and how to turn it off, so you can fix your own TV and all your friends' and family's TVs too.