The idea of this drill is that with it's simple and sturdy rectangular housing, it can be slid along a guide for repeatably drilling holes in precise locations. The drill isn't regularly available in North America at this point, but the drill he sent me is a 110 volt version, but it came with a European 240 volt plug. I didn't want to cut the power cord off it just yet, so for the time being I taped a 120 volt power cord to the prongs of the European 240 volt plug. The housing shows how many millimeters the drill's axis is from each face of the drill. I put a precision ground shaft in the chuck and spun it up. The shaft spun with very little wobble compared to a hand drill. For my first test, I figured I'd try something that would be impossible with a hand drill. Drilling a partial hole with a Forstner bit into and angled piece of wood, with the center of the drill bit out of the wood. The dill started out well enough, but I wasn't able to hold the drill down firmly enough and it jumped on me a few times. But with a smaller, 19 mm Forstner bit, I was able to drill a clean partial hole in the wood. This sort of drilling would be challenging even with a drill press, though it was something I could do with my old horizontal boring machine. My next test was to drill a series of overlapping 19 mm holes in a piece of wood. I used different spacers to guide the drill for the different positions, then moved it freehand to open the hole up into a slot. So this drill can be used as a sort of hand-held slot mortiser. Krzysiek also sent along some cabinet hardware, including two European style hinges. Using different spacers for the large hole and the two screw holes, I was able to position the holes precisely without marking them. That said, it was a few steps to do this, and I think a simple jig to drill through would do the job more conveniently. There is also a head with two spindles that can be screwed onto the front of the drill (after removing the drill chuck). This head has two spindles spaced 32 mm apart. This drill head only takes drills with 10 mm shanks. The kit included two drill bits with 10 mm shanks, sized 4 and 9 mm. The third black thing next to the drilling spindles is a stop for controlling the depth of drilling. A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

Broadcast television came to Boston in 1948 when WBZ-TV signed on for the first time. In those days, only about 0.5% of local households actually owned a set, a number that would grow 100-fold by the mid-1950s.

There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/

Topics best way to advertise, small business owner, small business marketing, television advertising, small business, small business advertising, television, Cable TV, ott, ctv, streaming video, SVOD, AVOD

It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year.

Despite the economic hardships imposed by the Coronavirus crisis on Boston area consumers, the demand for real estate is booming.

Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

The dill started out well enough, but I wasn't able to hold the drill down firmly enough and it jumped on me a few times.

The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges.

He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

SVOD makes up a significant part of what advertisers refer to as OTT (Over-The-Top-Television) and CTV (Connected-Television). OTT/CTV is video-programming content that viewers can only watch on smartphones, tablets, computers, smart-TVs, Amazon Firesticks, and Roku Sticks.  Nielsen reports that 94.3% of Boston adults own at least one of these devices.

Topics best way to advertise, television advertising, television, PAY-TV, DirecTV, Cable TV, Dish Network, ott, ctv, streaming video, internet, local television, Streaming TV, streaming media

Heading in 2022, local advertisers have even more options as internet-connected devices deliver hundreds of more programming choices to New England consumers. Collectively, this type of content is called OTT (Over-The-Top-Television) or CTV (Connected-Television). For the purpose of this discussion, OTT & CTV will be referred to singularly as streaming video.

But with a smaller, 19 mm Forstner bit, I was able to drill a clean partial hole in the wood. This sort of drilling would be challenging even with a drill press, though it was something I could do with my old horizontal boring machine.

By the early 1960s, however, local cable systems began to bring higher-quality, reliable reception to households throughout the Boston area. The number of programming options, though, remained limited to affiliates of ABC, NBC, and CBS.

But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair

Topics best way to advertise, newspaper advertising, small business owner, online advertising, social media advertising, television advertising, small business, advertise on radio, home buyers, home sellers, real estate, streaming audio, PAY-TV

In the early 1990s, Boston viewers could not only receive their television programming over-the-air or by cable, but options expanded to include satellite delivery by DishTV and DirectTV.

Topics retail, radio advertising, roi, consumer spending, small business owner, small business marketing, holiday shopping, television advertising, small business, small business advertising, return on investment, retail sales, retailer, retail store, holiday advertising, christmas, consumer confidence

For many years, Boston small business owners have been investing a significant portion of their advertising budgets into cable-TV.  The medium had proven to be a low-cost, high-reach alternative to buying commercial on over-the-air television stations.

The Wall Street Journal published a trend yesterday indicating that mortgage applications for purchasing a home have achieved levels equal to last year.

"Consumers have shown they are excited about the holidays and are willing to spend on gifts that lift the spirits of family and friends after such a challenging year," says NRF President and CEO Matthew Shay. "We expect a strong finish to the holiday season."

The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10"

To earn a significant share of these retail dollars, Boston area business owners are expected to spend $3.2 billion to advertise by year's end, according to Borrell Associates. This company tracks advertising expenditures in local markets across the U.S.

I put a precision ground shaft in the chuck and spun it up. The shaft spun with very little wobble compared to a hand drill.

For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

For my first test, I figured I'd try something that would be impossible with a hand drill. Drilling a partial hole with a Forstner bit into and angled piece of wood, with the center of the drill bit out of the wood. The dill started out well enough, but I wasn't able to hold the drill down firmly enough and it jumped on me a few times. But with a smaller, 19 mm Forstner bit, I was able to drill a clean partial hole in the wood. This sort of drilling would be challenging even with a drill press, though it was something I could do with my old horizontal boring machine. My next test was to drill a series of overlapping 19 mm holes in a piece of wood. I used different spacers to guide the drill for the different positions, then moved it freehand to open the hole up into a slot. So this drill can be used as a sort of hand-held slot mortiser. Krzysiek also sent along some cabinet hardware, including two European style hinges. Using different spacers for the large hole and the two screw holes, I was able to position the holes precisely without marking them. That said, it was a few steps to do this, and I think a simple jig to drill through would do the job more conveniently. There is also a head with two spindles that can be screwed onto the front of the drill (after removing the drill chuck). This head has two spindles spaced 32 mm apart. This drill head only takes drills with 10 mm shanks. The kit included two drill bits with 10 mm shanks, sized 4 and 9 mm. The third black thing next to the drilling spindles is a stop for controlling the depth of drilling. A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

Topics radio advertising, advertising reach, advertise to women, online advertising, social media advertising, television advertising, how to advertise, advertise in new england, effective advertising, digital advertising, advertise on radio, small business advertising, recruitment advertising, advertising on a budget, advertising on radio, advertise on boston radio, advertising options, business-to-business advertising, internet advertising, advertising roi

So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

“Given the pandemic, there is uncertainty about consumers’ willingness to spend, but with the economy improving most have the ability to spend,” NRF Chief Economist Jack Kleinhenz said. “Consumers have experienced a difficult year but will likely spend more than anyone would have expected just a few months ago."

Krzysiek also sent along some cabinet hardware, including two European style hinges. Using different spacers for the large hole and the two screw holes, I was able to position the holes precisely without marking them. That said, it was a few steps to do this, and I think a simple jig to drill through would do the job more conveniently. There is also a head with two spindles that can be screwed onto the front of the drill (after removing the drill chuck). This head has two spindles spaced 32 mm apart. This drill head only takes drills with 10 mm shanks. The kit included two drill bits with 10 mm shanks, sized 4 and 9 mm. The third black thing next to the drilling spindles is a stop for controlling the depth of drilling. A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

Streaming video can be viewed on any device that can connect to the internet. This includes computers, laptops, tablets, and smartphones. Programing can also be accessed using a smart-TV, Roku Stick, Amazon Fire Stick, or a game console. In all, according to Nielsen, 95.6% of Boston households own a device capable of receiving streaming video.

To capture a larger share of the robust market, local real estate agents need to stand apart from the millions of Google results.  Advertising on Boston radio will help accomplish this.  Here's why.

But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

At first, Boston consumers needed rabbit-ears or outdoor antennas to receive signals from a small handful of local stations, including  WCVB and WHDH. The quality of reception varied day-to-day.

There is a powerful and affordable solution, however, for small business owners to reach both the diminishing cable audience and the expanding number of cord-cutters.

There is also a head with two spindles that can be screwed onto the front of the drill (after removing the drill chuck). This head has two spindles spaced 32 mm apart. This drill head only takes drills with 10 mm shanks. The kit included two drill bits with 10 mm shanks, sized 4 and 9 mm. The third black thing next to the drilling spindles is a stop for controlling the depth of drilling. A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

It used to be so simple. When a small business owner wanted to advertise on Boston television, there were only a few options including, WCVB, WHDH, WBZ, WGBH, and WFXT. But slowly, the number of options expanded to include cable channels provided by Xfinity, DISH, DirecTV, and RCN.

The number of local homes that subscribe to pay-TV services began plummeting in 2013. New technologies has allowed viewers to bypass cable and satellite for more compelling content at lower prices. These cord-cutters now depend on services like Netflix, Hulu, Disney+, and Amazon Prime to fill their multiple screens.

But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

The next TV innovation came in 2007 as Boston consumers started turning to the internet to watch streaming channels like Netflix and Hulu.  These new services allowed viewers to watch TV on their phones, computers, and tablets as well as their living room LCD and Plasma screens.

Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles.

These SVOD networks are delivered to viewers' phones, tablets, computers, and smart-TVs via the internet and not over-the-air or cable systems.

Every week, according to Nielsen, 5.8 million adult consumers in Boston watch something on television. But, of course, the definition of what it means to watch TV has changed since the time when the number of available viewing options could be counted on the fingers of a single hand.

Collectively these streaming services are referred to as Over-The-Top Television (OTT) and Connected-TV (CTV). Viewers can only access this OTT and CTV content via smartphone, tablets, computers, smart-TVs, Amazon Fire Sticks, and Roku Sticks, Nielsen reports that 94.3% of Boston adults own at least one these devices. Furthermore, they are using them.

To ensure they are spending their advertising and marketing dollars wisely, many Boston business owners research how to best target prospective customers by using local media. An exceptional resource for local business owners to investigate the media habits of localconsumers is on the advice section of AdvertiseInBoston.com.

I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits.

In 1972, viewing options began to expand as local cable began offering Boston area consumers the opportunity to purchase premium services, including HBO, Showtime, and Cinemax.  Five years later came an explosion of non-premium cable channels such as TBS and CNN.

Topics online advertising, television advertising, digital advertising, television, PAY-TV, Cable TV, ott, ctv, streaming video, local television, internet advertising, Streaming TV, streaming media

From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

No longer are Boston consumers tied to the 21-inch Zenith in their living rooms. Instead, TV can be watched on giant LCDs, smartphones, and tablets from any room in the house, in the backseat of their cars, or practically anywhere else.

Topics best way to advertise, radio advertising, small business owner, small business marketing, television advertising, small business, advertise on radio, small business advertising, television, PAY-TV, Cable TV, cord-cutter, cord-never

SVOD is the abbreviation for Subscription Video On Demand. That is the collective name for streaming networks like Netflix, Hulu, Disney+, and Amazon Prime.  For a monthly fee, these services provide commercial-free access to TV shows, original content, and movies.

Today, all of this video technology offers viewers the ultimate flexibility to choose how, when, and where to watch TV.  So, what are they watching?

My next test was to drill a series of overlapping 19 mm holes in a piece of wood. I used different spacers to guide the drill for the different positions, then moved it freehand to open the hole up into a slot. So this drill can be used as a sort of hand-held slot mortiser. Krzysiek also sent along some cabinet hardware, including two European style hinges. Using different spacers for the large hole and the two screw holes, I was able to position the holes precisely without marking them. That said, it was a few steps to do this, and I think a simple jig to drill through would do the job more conveniently. There is also a head with two spindles that can be screwed onto the front of the drill (after removing the drill chuck). This head has two spindles spaced 32 mm apart. This drill head only takes drills with 10 mm shanks. The kit included two drill bits with 10 mm shanks, sized 4 and 9 mm. The third black thing next to the drilling spindles is a stop for controlling the depth of drilling. A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities.

And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask.

More than one-third of Boston area households are 'cord-cutters' or 'cord-nevers'. This means, they have fired their cable or satellite television providers or never subscribed at all. Instead, these consumers are choosing to find their video entertainment elsewhere.

Based on the latest projections from the National Retail Federation, holiday sales are expected to grow 3.6%-5.2% over 2019.  This means despite the economic ravages of the pandemic, Boston area shoppers will be spending between $11.9 and $12.2 billion on gifts and other trappings of the season.

Topics best way to advertise, small business owner, small business marketing, television advertising, small business, advertise on radio, small business advertising, television, PAY-TV, Cable TV, advertise on boston radio, ott, ctv, streaming video

Today, Boston consumers have a gargantuan number of viewing choices. This includes programs from stations like WCVB, WHDH, WBZ, WGBH, and WFXT. Or maybe cable and satellite systems like Xfinity, DISH, DirecTV, and RCN. There's also content delivered over the internet from Netflix, YouTube, Hulu, Disney+, and Amazon Prime.

Type "BOSTON REAL ESTATE AGENTS" into Google. In slightly over a half-second, the search will deliver 33,900,000 results. Similar searches for Brookline, Cambridge, Newton, Lexington, Boxborough, or Westford produce a proportional number of returns.

Krzysiek Brzeziński, from Poland, sent me his new product, a sort of square drill. Not for drilling square holes, but a square drill for round holes. The idea of this drill is that with it's simple and sturdy rectangular housing, it can be slid along a guide for repeatably drilling holes in precise locations. The drill isn't regularly available in North America at this point, but the drill he sent me is a 110 volt version, but it came with a European 240 volt plug. I didn't want to cut the power cord off it just yet, so for the time being I taped a 120 volt power cord to the prongs of the European 240 volt plug. The housing shows how many millimeters the drill's axis is from each face of the drill. I put a precision ground shaft in the chuck and spun it up. The shaft spun with very little wobble compared to a hand drill. For my first test, I figured I'd try something that would be impossible with a hand drill. Drilling a partial hole with a Forstner bit into and angled piece of wood, with the center of the drill bit out of the wood. The dill started out well enough, but I wasn't able to hold the drill down firmly enough and it jumped on me a few times. But with a smaller, 19 mm Forstner bit, I was able to drill a clean partial hole in the wood. This sort of drilling would be challenging even with a drill press, though it was something I could do with my old horizontal boring machine. My next test was to drill a series of overlapping 19 mm holes in a piece of wood. I used different spacers to guide the drill for the different positions, then moved it freehand to open the hole up into a slot. So this drill can be used as a sort of hand-held slot mortiser. Krzysiek also sent along some cabinet hardware, including two European style hinges. Using different spacers for the large hole and the two screw holes, I was able to position the holes precisely without marking them. That said, it was a few steps to do this, and I think a simple jig to drill through would do the job more conveniently. There is also a head with two spindles that can be screwed onto the front of the drill (after removing the drill chuck). This head has two spindles spaced 32 mm apart. This drill head only takes drills with 10 mm shanks. The kit included two drill bits with 10 mm shanks, sized 4 and 9 mm. The third black thing next to the drilling spindles is a stop for controlling the depth of drilling. A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

Now, because of cord-cutting, there are 1.3 million adult consumers with unconnected TVs. This profoundly diminishes the value proposition of advertising with local cable systems.

In all, says Nielsen, 2.8 million consumers watch streaming video content every week. Combined, these internet channels now reach more adults every week than local newspapers, podcasts, and digital audio services like Pandora, Spotify, Sirius/XM. Amazon Music, and iHeart Radio.

Boston small business owners may not be familiar with SVOD, but chances are they let it into their homes and onto their phones.

The drill isn't regularly available in North America at this point, but the drill he sent me is a 110 volt version, but it came with a European 240 volt plug. I didn't want to cut the power cord off it just yet, so for the time being I taped a 120 volt power cord to the prongs of the European 240 volt plug.

The NRF forecast is based on an economic model that takes into consideration a variety of indicators including employment, wages, consumer confidence, disposable income, consumer credit, previous retail sales and weather. NRF defines the holiday season as November 1 through December 31. Numbers forecast by NRF may differ from other organizations that define the holiday season as a longer period or include retail sectors not included by NRF, such as automobile dealers, gasoline stations and restaurants.

According to redfin.com, home buying demand is 16.5% higher now than it was pre-COVID-19 on a seasonally adjusted basis.

Redfin attributes this explosive growth in real estate shoppers to two factors, including record-low mortgage rates. The other primary driver is a migration trend from expensive metropolitan areas as buyers hunt for more space at lower prices.

Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary.

Advertising on Boston television and cable is becoming less attractive to local business owners as viewers rapidly defect to alternative video entertainment sources including, Netflix, YouTube, Hulu, Amazon and Disney+.

Topics retail, best way to advertise, newspaper advertising, boston newspaper, radio advertising, small business owner, small business marketing, television advertising, small business, small business advertising, advice, television, retail sales, retailer, retail store, PAY-TV, Cable TV, ott, ctv, SVOD, AVOD, 2020