In conclusion, the Picatinny rail is a widely used platform that provides a standardized way to mount accessories on firearms. The rails are durable and reliable, and they are a popular choice for military and law enforcement use. However, the rails are also relatively expensive, difficult to install, and heavy, which can be drawbacks for some users. Regardless, the Picatinny rail remains a popular platform for those who need to mount accessories on their firearms.

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Jointing a board after milling only one face leaves no option for grain direction when milling the edge. If you plane the opposite face parallel first, you can reference either face on the fence to allow for grain direction.

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• Gather tools:You will need a screwdriver or power drill, screw bits, and any other tools specified in the rail's installation instructions.• Clean the surface: Clean the surface where the rail will be attached to remove any dirt, grease, or oil that could affect the rail's adhesion. • Align the rail:Place the rail in the desired position and make sure it is aligned with the firearm.• Secure the rail: Secure the rail to the firearm using screws or other fasteners specified in the rail's installation instructions. • Tighten the screws or fasteners until the rail is firmly attached to the firearm. • Test the rail:Once the rail is installed, test it to make sure it is securely attached to the firearm and that it can hold accessories without wobbling. • Attach accessories: Attach any desired accessories to the Picatinny rail using the appropriate locking mechanism.

When only one roller is making contact with a board, the uneven pressure can tilt it up into the cutterhead. That’s why snipe usually occurs at the ends of boards.

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The rollers on planers put down so much pressure, they can temporarily flatten warped boards. But as soon as that board comes out, it’ll spring back to its original shape.

Love your videos and your 8&1 dovetail guide. I noticed on your milling video a discrepancy of how you illustrated how the planer mimics the opposite face of the cutter head. Unless I am misinterpreting what you are saying. Your illustration shows it in a mirror fashion not a parallel. I love your content and don’t mean to be a troll. Just noticed it and thought it would be helpful to others. Keep up the killer content.

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Account for losing ¼ inch to ½ inch of material to milling — so buy boards at least ¼ inch thicker than the final dimensions you're after.

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You’ll more than likely have to re-mill resawn boards. But you can clamp them together overnight with the newly cut faces facing out. This should help mitigate the cupping.

If the grain lines go straight along that entire edge, you can probably get away with feeding the board either direction.

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If you’re stacking boards, “sticker” them by laying equally thick strips of wood between each board. This lets air circulate around them so moisture can escape evenly.

My biggest challenge is having a small shop, since I don’t have the room for a tablesaw or bandsaw. What are the most reliable ways to get that 4th side without one?

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TIP: CUT UP LONG BOARDSThe longer a board is, the more material you’ll have to remove to get it flat — especially if there are any cups or twists.

TIP: HOW TO DEAL WITH SNIPESnipe is when the cutterheads cut deeper into a section of a board — and it's the curse of lunchbox planers.

I know it’s tempting to get home, mill up your new boards, and start building a project right away. But you’ll pay the price when those perfectly straight table legs suddenly aren’t straight.

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It is important to follow the specific instructions provided by the manufacturer of the Picatinny rail and to use the correct tools to ensure a secure and proper installation. If you are unsure about the installation process, it is recommended to seek help from a professional gunsmith.

Jointing a board after milling only one face leaves no option for grain direction when milling the edge. If you plane the opposite face parallel first, you can reference either face on the fence to allow for grain direction.

I found your tip quite useful when you told us to acclimate the lumber to our shop for a couple of days first after buying it to avoid making the wood warp after moving it from one location to another. I enjoy wood crafting, so I was thinking of challenging myself by making my furniture once I get the wood I need to use as the material for it. I’ll keep this in mind while I look for a nearby lumber yard that I can go to for my material supply soon. http://adamslumber.com

No, don’t start sucking on the board. Set the face you just flattened on the outfeed table. If you feel slight suction as you lift it, you know it’s dead flat.

Love your videos and your 8&1 dovetail guide. I noticed on your milling video a discrepancy of how you illustrated how the planer mimics the opposite face of the cutter head. Unless I am misinterpreting what you are saying. Your illustration shows it in a mirror fashion not a parallel. I love your content and don’t mean to be a troll. Just noticed it and thought it would be helpful to others. Keep up the killer content.

With the jointed edge (Side 2) against the table saw fence, cut the board to its rough width. Leave a bit of material for final milling the next day.

Obviously, this depends on how flat a board is. But remember: Even a super flat board can warp when you bring it to your shop.

As you feed the board over the cutterhead, put all the pressure on the outfeed table as soon as possible. This will keep you from cutting a curve into the board.

The Picatinny rail was first developed by the US military in the late 1980s as a way to standardize the mounting of accessories on firearms. Prior to the development of the Picatinny rail, there was no standard platform for mounting accessories on firearms, which meant that each manufacturer had to design their own mounting system. This made it difficult to use accessories from one manufacturer on firearms from another, and it also meant that accessories could only be used on a limited number of firearms. The Picatinny rail was designed to solve these problems by providing a standard platform that could be used by all manufacturers, and that could be used to mount a wide range of accessories.

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As mentioned above, changes in location can change the shape of boards. Let them sit a few days before milling to save you from trouble later on.

Twisted boards can be the toughest to get flat on a jointer because they tend to shift as you pass them over the cutter head. To combat this, I first use a hand plane to knock down the high corners. It takes just a minute and makes the flattening process much easier. I also use my tablesaw as a flat reference surface for boards longer than my jointer bed.

Thanks for telling us that the edges of our lumber would have no tear out if we mill it according to the direction of its grain. My uncle relies on many timber-based materials to make the frames for his bedroom windows. I hope he checks out this detail before making a deal with the right supplier eventually. https://mfcestimating.com/multifamily-lumber-takeoffs/

So even after boards are acclimated to your shop, you should do a “rough” milling one day, then a final milling a day or two later.

If you don’t do it right, your measurements won’t be accurate, your joinery won’t quite fit, and boards that were once straight will turn into hockey sticks over time.

Milling also exposes the inner, more moisture-laden parts of a board. And as that newly exposed moisture is released… yup — the board will warp.

The milling process is how you make boards flat, straight, and square — and it’s the crucial first step to any woodworking project.

I have fresh milled pine 2×12×20, I am using them for floor joist. Do you recommend treating them with a preservative treatment? And if so, what kind? Thank you.

If it works for your project, cut long boards to their rough lengths with a chop saw or circular saw first, and keep some money out of the dust collector.

Once your board is acclimated, it’s time to run it through the jointer and flatten one face. Remember to pay attention to grain direction.

• Weaver Rails: Weaver rails are a older option that predates Picatinny rails and offer a more limited range of compatibility with accessories. They feature a two-slot design and are typically found on older firearms or budget-friendly options. • Dovetail Rails: Dovetail rails are a traditional option for mounting accessories and are commonly found on shotguns and rifles. They feature a tapered design that allows accessories to be mounted by sliding them onto the rail and locking them in place. However, the limited range of compatibility with accessories can be a drawback. When choosing a rail system, it is important to consider the specific needs and preferences of the shooter, as well as the compatibility with existing accessories. Some accessories may only be compatible with Picatinny rails, while others may be compatible with multiple rail systems. It is recommended to carefully research and compare the various rail options before making a final decision.

Twisted boards can be the toughest to get flat on a jointer because they tend to shift as you pass them over the cutter head. To combat this, I first use a hand plane to knock down the high corners. It takes just a minute and makes the flattening process much easier. I also use my tablesaw as a flat reference surface for boards longer than my jointer bed.

I found your tip quite useful when you told us to acclimate the lumber to our shop for a couple of days first after buying it to avoid making the wood warp after moving it from one location to another. I enjoy wood crafting, so I was thinking of challenging myself by making my furniture once I get the wood I need to use as the material for it. I’ll keep this in mind while I look for a nearby lumber yard that I can go to for my material supply soon. http://adamslumber.com

It’s a pretty straightforward process. But there are a few things to know to get it right — not just for making boards square, but for keeping them that way.

Think of it like petting a cat. Pet it in the direction the fur lies, and it stays flat. But pet against the fur, and that cat will look like it’s coming out of a three day catnip bender.

Picatinny rails are typically made from aluminum, steel, or a combination of both.  •  Aluminum rails are lighter and less expensive than steel rails, but they are also less durable and may not be suitable for heavy use.  •  Steel rails are more durable and can withstand heavy use, but they are also heavier and more expensive.  •  Some manufacturers also offer rails made from other materials, such as polymer, but these are not as common as aluminum or steel rails.

Place a board cupside-down on a flat surface. Wipe down the non-cupped side with a wet rag, then set something heavy on it and leave it overnight.

The Picatinny rail has a number of advantages over other mounting platforms. Firstly, the uniform spacing of the ridges allows for accessories to be easily attached and locked into place, which makes it a popular choice for military and law enforcement use. Secondly, the Picatinny rail is a standardized platform, which means that accessories can be used on a wide range of firearms, regardless of the manufacturer. This makes it easier for users to switch between firearms, or to upgrade their accessories as needed. Finally, the Picatinny rail is a durable and reliable platform that is able to withstand heavy use, making it a popular choice for demanding applications.

Thanks for telling us that the edges of our lumber would have no tear out if we mill it according to the direction of its grain. My uncle relies on many timber-based materials to make the frames for his bedroom windows. I hope he checks out this detail before making a deal with the right supplier eventually. https://mfcestimating.com/multifamily-lumber-takeoffs/

I’ll cover the most important points below, but here’s a few resources for you to get a solid understanding of the tools involved in the milling process:

A technique for reducing snipe, that has worked well for me in the past, is while ‘catching’ the board on the outfeed side, attempt to counteract the increasing load on the table as the board emerges from the planer, and gradually pull up on the board. It is especially helpful if you can apply a small upward force so that when the back end of the board passes the first roller the upward force on the end of the board keeps it in contact with the table. I have never seen this hint, but I’m sure this isn’t the first time someone has tried this. I find it quite effective… at least with my Dewalt 735 planer.

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Keep in mind the cutterhead on a jointer is below a board, while on a planer it’s above. On either, the part of the cutterhead that cuts spins the opposite direction the board is moving.

Wood is constantly absorbing and releasing moisture from its surrounding environment — which causes it to expand and contract (a.k.a. wood movement).

Yes, you can do your milling entirely with hand tools. But it requires quite a bit of skill, a lot more time, and bucketfuls of elbow grease.

Feeding a board through a jointer or planer against the grain can chip off pieces of wood instead of cleanly severing the fibers.

Always good to hear recaps, bc I’ve always planed both sides before pulling out the jointer, and think I’ll try it this way now!

Picatinny rails have been the standard for mounting accessories on firearms for many years, but there are several alternatives available for those looking for different options. These alternatives offer different advantages, disadvantages, and compatibility options, depending on the specific needs of the shooter. •  KeyMod Rails: KeyMod rails offer a lighter and more streamlined option compared to Picatinny rails. They feature keyholes rather than slots, allowing for a more modular and customizable mounting system. However, not all accessories are compatible with KeyMod rails. • M-LOK Rails: M-LOK rails are similar to KeyMod rails, offering a more modular and customizable mounting system. However, M-LOK rails feature slots rather than keyholes, providing a more secure mounting option for accessories. Like KeyMod rails, not all accessories are compatible with M-LOK rails.

My biggest challenge is having a small shop, since I don’t have the room for a tablesaw or bandsaw. What are the most reliable ways to get that 4th side without one?

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I also recommend labeling the faces and edges you’ve already milled. It’s easy to get confused — especially if you’re milling multiple boards at once.

Since the moisture levels between the lumber yard and your shop are probably different, the boards will likely warp when you bring them home.

Picatinny rails consist of a series of raised ridges that run parallel to the barrel of the firearm. These ridges have a uniform spacing and height, which allows accessories to be easily attached and locked into place. The rails are typically mounted onto the firearm using screws or other fasteners, and the accessories are attached using clamps or other locking mechanisms. The design of the Picatinny rail allows for accessories to be quickly and easily mounted or removed, which makes it a popular choice for military and law enforcement use.

While the Picatinny rail is a popular platform, it does have a few drawbacks. Firstly, the rails can be expensive to manufacture, which makes them more expensive than other mounting platforms. Secondly, the Picatinny rail can be difficult to install, as it requires precise measurements and careful alignment. Finally, the Picatinny rail is relatively heavy, which can add weight to the firearm and affect its handling and balance.

Always good to hear recaps, bc I’ve always planed both sides before pulling out the jointer, and think I’ll try it this way now!

I have fresh milled pine 2×12×20, I am using them for floor joist. Do you recommend treating them with a preservative treatment? And if so, what kind? Thank you.

As you make multiple passes (which you should always do), any remaining pencil lines will show the low/high spots that haven’t yet been cut.

Make sure the face you flattened is the side against the fence (the photo above was just a demonstration — Side 1 should face the other way).

That’s where planers come in. Planers cut one face of a board parallel to the other — but that doesn’t mean the board will be flat.

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Picatinny rails are a type of mounting platform that are widely used in the firearms industry to attach accessories such as scopes, lasers, and bipods to firearms. The rails were first designed in the late 1980s as a standardized platform that could be used to mount accessories on a wide range of firearms. The design was named after the Picatinny Arsenal in New Jersey where the design was first developed.

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A technique for reducing snipe, that has worked well for me in the past, is while ‘catching’ the board on the outfeed side, attempt to counteract the increasing load on the table as the board emerges from the planer, and gradually pull up on the board. It is especially helpful if you can apply a small upward force so that when the back end of the board passes the first roller the upward force on the end of the board keeps it in contact with the table. I have never seen this hint, but I’m sure this isn’t the first time someone has tried this. I find it quite effective… at least with my Dewalt 735 planer.