Go buy yourself the cheapest mortising bit you can find. I get them from a local place here in town for $4.99. They are inexpensive and last a long time. Just slow down the plunge rate if you like. Mortising bits have cutters on the outer edges and nothing in the middle so you don’t really need to worry about ramping them in. You can also get a cheap bottom finishing bit and use the to hog out material if you can’t control your plunge rate. Remember that these larger sized bits run better at lower RPM. I run the 1/4 inch bits between 18 and 19000 but these larger bits I run around 13000 to 15000.

We hope this blog post has helped you understand the differences between cobalt and HSS drill bits with different point angles and choose the best ones for your project.

That is interesting but makes sense. I thought they might be to big but then I use them all the time in my hand held routers. I have to think more on this as my bits I have to ramp in. there is no cutter in the middle of the bit. and then there is the chip removal. maybe a bowl bit, I will have to look in my collection Well I guess I will have to try some things Thanks, you got me thinking

I saw this from IDC The “HOG” 1/4" Roughing Endmill Bit For CNC Routers, 1/4" Shank – IDC Woodcraft I googled for something similar and did not find a good selection, it mostly came back with metal milling machines roughing bits. One person said they are made form metal but work really well with wood.

Hey all, I have a bunch of large catchalls trays to carve. 16 x 20 x 2 inches. It requires a lot of wood to be hogged out. CC says it will take over 6 hours to just rough out the trays with a 1/4 flat endmill with default settings.

M35 cobalt and HSS drill bits are both made of steel alloy, but they have different compositions and properties. M35 cobalt drill bits contain 5% cobalt, which makes them harder and more resistant to heat than HSS drill bits. HSS drill bits are made of various elements such as chromium and vanadium, which give them high speed and durability.The main difference between M35 cobalt and HSS drill bits is how they perform in drilling hard metals. M35 cobalt drill bits can withstand higher temperatures and maintain their sharpness longer than HSS drill bits. They can also cut faster and smoother than HSS drill bits. However, M35 cobalt drill bits are also more brittle and expensive than HSS drill bits. They can break or chip easily if not used properly or if the material is too hard.HSS drill bits are more suitable for drilling softer metals, plastics, woods, or aluminum. They are also more versatile and economical than M35 cobalt drill bits. They can handle a variety of applications and materials with good results. However, HSS drill bits can lose their edge quickly and overheat when drilling hard metals. They can also produce more friction and wear than M35 cobalt drill bits.

I run 3/4 to 1" mortising bits with 1/4 shank. Operated about 13000rpm and feed rates between 700 and 1000 (in mm of course). Plunge rate of 200 to 250. Stepovers are 40% of the bit. I shave off over 75% of the time on average. I suggest a mortising bit because they allow for great chip extraction and also allow the bit to plunge without jamming up the machine.

In general these run on the idea of breaking the flute engagement during the cut reducing total bit deflection (less time being pulled into the cut per flute). You can kind of think of it as each section of the flute being it’s own small cutter. That usually comes at the cost of cut quality and can cause weird effects with variable chipload. The exception to this was that chipbreakers were originally intended for a similar purpose but with the breaks in the flute being overlapped by another flute to give a smooth edge. However, it will depend on the manufacturer if that is true for any given bit. They were also usually designed for deeper cutting than you may be able to achieve.

I saw this from IDC The "HOG" 1/4" Roughing Endmill Bit For CNC Routers, 1/4" Shank – IDC Woodcraft I googled for something similar and did not find a good selection, it mostly came back with metal milling machines roughing bits. One person said they are made form metal but work really well with wood.

I have a 2.2kW spindle however and am lucky enough to be able to run 1/2" cutters, for lots of wood removal I can’t do with the table saw or thicknesser, I use one of these as a cheap cutter for bulk removal

I don’t think the cutting geometry of the McFly is suited to large-scale material removal — it doesn’t have much in the way of flutes to clear chips — the design seems optimized for surfacing.

I bought a bowl and tray bit with the intention of doing something similar. I haven’t used it yet and read concerns online about their ability to really evacuate the chips as well.

So I thought maybe I will hog it out with something different and then use the bowl and tray bit for the final cleanup and to get the appropriate radius on the bottom.

Usually folks just use a #201 for clearing large pockets, then use a bowl-bit to finish up the bottom and sides and lower corners/edges.

If you are looking for a drill bit that can handle tough materials and high torque, you might want to consider reduced-shank drill bits. These are drill bits that have a smaller diameter at the shank than at the cutting end, which allows them to fit into standard chucks while offering a larger cutting diameter. However, not all reduced-shank drill bits are the same. Three-equal flat shanks are reduced-shank drill bits that have three flat sides on the shank, which provide a better grip and prevent slippage in the chuck. They are also known as tri-flute or tri-flat shanks. These drill bits are ideal for drilling hard metals, such as stainless steel, cast iron, or titanium. They can also withstand higher torque and speed than round shanks.Round shanks are reduced-shank drill bits that have a smooth and cylindrical shank, which makes them easier to insert and remove from the chuck. They are also more common and cheaper than three-equal flat shanks. However, they have some disadvantages as well. They tend to slip and spin in the chuck when subjected to high torque or pressure, which can damage the chuck and reduce the accuracy of the drilling. They are also more prone to breaking or bending when drilling hard materials.To summarize, three-equal flat shanks are reduced-shank drill bits that offer more stability, durability, and performance than round shanks, especially when drilling hard metals. However, they are also more expensive and less available than round shanks. Round shanks are reduced-shank drill bits that are more convenient and economical than three-equal flat shanks, but they also have more limitations and risks when drilling tough materials. Depending on your needs and budget, you can choose the type of reduced-shank drill bit that suits you best.

If you are looking for drill bits that can handle tough materials like stainless steel, cast iron, or titanium, you might be wondering which type of drill bits to choose: M35 cobalt or high speed steel (HSS). In this blog post, I will compare these two types of drill bits and explain their advantages and disadvantages. I will also recommend some drill bit sets that offer high quality and performance.

I have found I can push an 8mm quite a bit harder through ply and hardwoods than a 1/4" before getting the “I’m going to snap” noise

Mortising bits have cutters on the outer edges and nothing in the middle so you don’t really need to worry about ramping them in.

Accusize Industrial Tools was born in Toronto, Canada, in 2008. As a Canadian distributor, Accusize Industrial Tools serves the metalworking customers with high-quality measuring tools, cutting tools, and machine tool accessories at a very competitive price.Accusize Industrial Tools do the best to listen and respond to our clients' needs.

You could try doing the bulk of the cutting with the McFly and then switch to the 1/4" using Rest Machining and 1.0" as your previous tool. The more aggressive cutting with the 1/4" as suggested may be quicker, but depending on your material being cut, you could probably push the McFly a little harder as well.

I used it recently clearing a large area for a serving tray/cutting board and it saved time over the 1/4" (default settings), but the depth was only 0.09".

@TDA thanks, Yes they seem to be more for bigger machines and yes I believe the idea is to break the chips up so we can get them out of the way faster. yes it leave a very rough cut but that the job of the finishing bit to fix

I am asking the group on how you would attack removing all this material. IE: Push the speeds, feeds, and stepover and what bit would you use?

I believe I have some things to try and see how much I can push a #201 bit and maybe order a cheap rougher just to see how it works

There are a few version of these. They are much more common in larger cutters. You’ll find them listed under “roughing”, “corncob”, and “chipbreaker”. Be careful with those last 2 though as they are also common terms for types of composite and metal cutters that are not intended for things as soft as wood. A quick rule of thumb would be that if it’s more than 3 flutes with those terms it’s probably meant for metal or composites. 2 and 3 flute ones you’ll need to check.

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I Googled my way into confusion and doubt So I thought I would ask the experts here How would you quickly rough hog all this out ?

These are ideal for machining PVC, Acrylic & Hard Woods Solid Carbide 2 Flute Up Cut Router Bits Speeds, Feeds & Chip Load Chart Dimensions - Cutting Diameter Flute Length Overall Length Shank Diameter 1/16" 6mm 38mm 3.175mm (1/8") 1/16" 8mm...

First step would be to push your DOC - CC is very conservative, you can very likely go to .100 or even .125 (1/2 the width of the bit). Feedrate can likely be higher as well, in the 100IPM range. Try both on a piece of scrap.

Usual preface, I’m with PreciseBits so while I try to only post general information take everything I say with the understanding that I have a bias.