Miniature Reamers - reamers tool

2024-08-28 23:12:27

Tool tour

Like I said, pictures to follow. It's going to be a challenge, but I'm reluctant to take the easy way out by dropping in any old wrecking yard find in order to make it functional again.

Tools names

I had to drill through some Model A spring shackles. Only the right tools will work and the carbide bit is the only way to go.

While the synonyms appliance and tool are close in meaning, appliance refers to a tool or instrument utilizing a power source and suggests portability or temporary attachment.

Some common synonyms of tool are appliance, implement, instrument, and utensil. While all these words mean "a relatively simple device for performing work," tool suggests an implement adapted to facilitate a definite kind or stage of work and suggests the need of skill more strongly than implement.

As for my skills and tooling, I was originally trained as an aircraft mechanic and have held related trades jobs since then. I'm far from an expert -- always learning no matter how old -- but not a rank amateur either. Tooling at home consists primarily of a MIG welder (good for making jigs at least) and two American made lathes (so you know they must be antiques). Same with an older -- but still sufficiently accurate Delta drill press. A decent vise, granite surface plate, a complement of calipers, hand tools and reamers pretty much rounds out what I have to work with. I'm used to doing as much as I can as the nearest town of any size is a 100 mile round trip.

Tool tour 2024

In some situations, the words implement and tool are roughly equivalent. However, implement may apply to anything necessary to perform a task.

Tool website

Like I said, pictures to follow. It's going to be a challenge, but I'm reluctant to take the easy way out by dropping in any old wrecking yard find in order to make it functional again.

Chris, what area do you live in? Looking at the photos you show would tell me the only way you are going to get true and accurate results will be by using the talents of a machinist. I've got a great one in Indiana. Close at all to you?

Each u-joint end basically consists of a flange, a circular spider ring, two pins on either side of the flange to secure the ring to the flange and finally, one long central pin that runs through the diameter of the ring and an end of the drive shaft.

I think the idea of grinding off a small portion in order to get a drill started and get through the case hardening is a good idea and I may go that route. I'll try and post pictures later today. The pins measure 5/8" in diameter, have key ways cut along their length and are secured with cotter pins to retain them in their positions.

First grind a flat spot. Then drill, only with a drill press, take your time and use drill lubricant. You will be doing a small hole and it is real easy to break the bits.

Tools app

I'm leaning towards rebuilding my unobtanium drive shaft instead of a modern replacement and I've found a machine tool supplier that carries case hardened pins ideal for what I need -- only they don't have the small holes for fitting cotter pins as this is generic off-the shelf stock. So as not to waste my money, is it possible to drill this stuff? Otherwise I'll have to brain storm another way to keep them secured.

Most likely a few ways to skin this cat. Can you give a discription of the pin such as it's size and how it's used. Is the diameter critical? Does it NEED to be hardened? etc etc............Bob

There is a very good chance the spider ring is hardened, either cased or all the way through. In that event the BEST way to open the holes for a bushing would be by using an EDM. An EDM doesn't care how hard the material is and it is deadly accurate. I don't know your experiance level or what tooling you have available but it sounds like the services of a good machine shop may be in order. BTW there are different case hardening methods. A simple cyanide bath will case harden a few thousands deep but if the pins were packed in bone and cased it could be as deep as .030. The case is usually glass hard..................Bob

TOOL youtube

“Tool.” Merriam-Webster.com Thesaurus, Merriam-Webster, https://www.merriam-webster.com/thesaurus/tool. Accessed 13 Nov. 2024.

Carbide massonry drills which are availible from a hardware stor will drill hardened steel.Try running slower RPM with cutting oil first if it will not cut run fast rpm dry [will get hot and anneal the case]After you break thru the case [.015"] you most likly can drill it with a hss drill using cutting oil.Good luck.:confused:

I see what you're up against now. For some reason I pictured gears. If this is as low powered and slow moving as it looks, and if you are not going to use it much here is what I would do. I would use unhardened drill rod for the shafts. It's precision ground and 3' feet costs only $15. I would hand file the really hogged out holes smooth and then hand file a plug to fit the oval hole as close as I could. I would then weld the plug in. Then drill and ream as required. The holes that are just worn a bit oversize I would bush. Set up, locating, and holding the piece square while machineing will be a challenge. Do not use drill rod as the plug as it will harden from the welding heat. I'm sure the are other ways to skin this cat but the above is about as low tech and home shop as you can get...........Bob

Tool Dissectional

Attached are pictures of one flange assembly end plus what one end of the drive shaft looks like with one of the normally spring-compressed steel shrouds.

go right through the 50 Rc plus surface, no problem (a carbide spotting drill should be used first though for accurate locating). A standard twist drill could

The hardest part I think will be trying to weld the massively ovaled-out holes on the spider ring and accurately drilling them back to specs and fitting them with bushings.

Tool band

Except for the pins and press-fit steel bushings formerly in the spider ring, all parts are of a steel soft enough where only 2-3 light strokes of a file start to make a groove in the metal. Also, as a side note, the engine only develops around 50hp or so and gearing is low so I'm thinking that these parts weren't developed with the stress criteria that we're used to on more modern cars -- or am I misguided here?

the drill rod is easy to drill,i would measure the whopped out holes on the spider,make bushings from a larger diameter rod,machine it downto fit,bore holes in it,then with a piece of the drill rod long enough to align both bushings,weld them in.another way is to bore out a rod long enough to fit through both eyelets,weld it in,then cut out the middle section of tube after its cooled-perfectly aligned.i just think its more difficult to bore a straight /true hole.but i'm talking to a guy with a lathe,why not make a whole new spider?

You will feel a change as you get through the case hardening. It will go much faster, but when you hit the case hardening on the other side you are likely to break the bit if you try to hard (I found out the hard way). Just feel the bit and let it do its job.

The hardest part I think will be trying to weld the massively ovaled-out holes on the spider ring and accurately drilling them back to specs and fitting them with bushings.

If you grind a V at the spot you want the pin hole you may find that it is easier to start the drill and that the case hardening has been removed.

The words utensil and tool can be used in similar contexts, but utensil applies to a device used in domestic work or some routine unskilled activity.

You should be able to find a small machine job shop with an "EDM" machine. A job lke burning one hole in a pin is kind of a nuisence job but on the other hand it would take almost no set up time or electrode fabrication and the machine runs itself. If you snivel enough it's one of those " OK, i'll do it over lunch" type of deals.............Bob

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