Moulder Tooling - carbide tooling supply

2024-09-20 18:09:36

Material processing PDF

My fly cutter. I get a really great finish with this one. Sorry if I misled folks. After I finished cutting, I laid a sheet of 400 grit on a piece of glass and dragged the items once over the length of the sheet, that was all that was needed to remove the cutting marks.

Sorry if I misled folks. After I finished cutting, I laid a sheet of 400 grit on a piece of glass and dragged the items once over the length of the sheet, that was all that was needed to remove the cutting marks.

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Still, I faced my remaining vice blocks, and got much better surface finish than milling, and parallel over 25mm x 40mm to within 0.0006" according to a my micrometer, over an average of 5 measurements. Sorry to mix units!

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Home › Forums › Beginners questions › Carbide Insert Designations & Suppliers This topic has 48 replies, 17 voices, and was last updated 13 May 2020 at 21:14 by Chris George. Viewing 24 posts - 26 through 49 (of 49 total) ← 1 2 Author Posts 10 May 2020 at 19:37 #470731 Peter SpinkParticipant @peterspink21088 Posted by magpie on 10/05/2020 10:04:40:

JB Cutting tools do a "button" insert holder in 8mm. It uses an 8mm diameter insert. If you want a larger radius, you'd have to get a larger tool and grind it down. Or a carbide end mill might do the trick, too.

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Michael, no, the lines are what the stepover leaves at the edge of the diameter of the cut so size of tool would not matter. Totally impractical but would give straight marks on the surface.

I got as far as changing tips as I was going to see if the problem actually happened but all my flycutters are 8mm slot and my DC** holders 10mm sq.

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As you can see, it uses an 8mm LEFThanded tool holder, which puts ithe cutting edge, as near as dammit, on the centreline. Good enough for my purposes, anyway. An HSS tool of the same width would have similar alignment, unless ground with a distinct offset. Maybe my flycutter has the toolholding groove machined in a different position (it's a commercially made item).

Jason – that’s posed another question: As you suggested I bought a plain-shank fly cutter holder (still waiting for it). Presumably the angle that the tool holder is held at is a standard, and the geometry of my DCMT holder will put the insert’s cutting edges and clearances at the correct angles to the work? I guess the nose radius takes care of any slight angular differences, because it will touch the workpiece at a tangent? Would a square rather than rhombic insert holder place the insert’s tip at a different angle for example?

John, how do you get on with aright hand tool when I put one in my flycutter it would need to run in reverse and it also puts the insert off of the radial line so you end up with negative rake.

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Feed rate eg side ways movement would not effect things. If your depth of cut – vertical movement becomes more than the tip radius then you run the risk of what I showed in the sketch, all the time DOC is less than radius you are cutting more like the RCMT insert, the 0.8mm will be less likely to do this.

Isn't feed rate therefore as critical as depth of cut for the planing effect you suggest might be an issue with the DCMT inserts?

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Michael, no, the lines are what the stepover leaves at the edge of the diameter of the cut so size of tool would not matter. Totally impractical but would give straight marks on the surface.

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Michael, no, the lines are what the stepover leaves at the edge of the diameter of the cut so size of tool would not matter. Totally impractical but would give straight marks on the surface.

Diesel Heaters MEW 346 creates new definition of ‘universal’, Motorcycle General Discussion ML10 questions Have you manifested your loco/workshop/whatever lately? Myford Dixon-type toolholders: different dimensions? Jaguar [oh dear] Welded/fabricated engine ‘castings’ Anybody recognise this design? Sanding Belts for 4×36 Machine

Jason thanks for pointing that out – my flycutter takes 1/4" square toolbits (slot is about 8mm) so I would need a 6mm toolholder and shim it to get the cutting edge on the centre line. I don't think the CCGT button inserts are robust enough generally for interrupted cuts but maybe OK for a very fine finishing cut on Ally?

Yep. As suggested, I ordered a few inserts today to play around with: DCMT 0.4mm & 0.8mm, DCGT, 0.2mm radii. Hopefully all the stuff I’ve ordered will be here by Wednesday afternoon when I’ve got 1/2 day off and I can make more progress. Cheers.

The only slight problem was vibration due to the tool holder being long. I ground it down a bit and that resolved that. The grub screws in the holder appear to be made of cheese, so having got the tool well and truly stuck, I spent a good 30 minutes drilling them out and replacing with caphead screws, which was fun.

I am glad I found this thread, Im looking to get carbide tips and was wandering where to start looking. Thanks for the info..

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Workholding devices are used to correctly position the workpiece and protect it from movement caused by forces exerted by the machining tools.

As an addendum to this, I'm a bit unsure as to feed rates and spindle speeds. Pretty much everything within reason worked without any complaint from the machine. I got the impression I might have been running at too high an rpm though, becasue the chips appear to be blued by heat.

Jul 29, 2024 — Just step it up a size, says Donahue. Choose the next bigger bit, then re-drill in the same spot. He says drilling a hole that's too small is ...

Ah I see. I was assuming a 0.8mm nose radius. I'll try some depths and see what happens. Around 0.3mm / 0.5mm should be ok for a first go I'd have thought?

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My main worry since you said you had DCMT is that the more pointed shape of the blade may act like a wood plane if the depth of cut is too high and peel a burr off the top. The larger the tip radius the less likely this will be and it will also be more durable as the more commonly use rhombic and round inserts are a bit more robust and present an obtuse angle to the work rather than the DCMTs accute.

By the by, I bought a box of 10 CCGT polished inserts at last year's Doncaster show (from the JB stand) ostensibly for machining aluminium, but just lately I've been using them more and more on steel. Once I got the speeds (high) and feeds (low for my lathe),right, the finish was really good. Incidentally, I use a righthand insert tool in my flycutter with good results. Not that I use it very often.

Also, I guess depending on the width of the fly cutter’s slot, I might have to shim the tool to align the cutting edge with the centre of the spindle?

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Isn't feed rate therefore as critical as depth of cut for the planing effect you suggest might be an issue with the DCMT inserts?

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I’ve got quite a few RCGT06 inserts so I made a holder for them for my flycutter and they work very nicely on Aluminium Alloy.

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Missed the postman due to work, so the milling cutter test will have to wait, but in the meantime, for the 10V castings, what do folks recommend for facing: milling or fly cutting? I did get some DCMT070208 inserts for iron too.

Types of material processing

So the small fly cutter holder arrived today. I put my Sandvik 8mm left hand tool holder in it, fitted with a DCMT 070208 insert for steel, and had a go at fly cutting for the first time. Must say I was really happy with the results, finally a bit of progress. Workpiece was the same mild steel I've been using for the vice clamps. I went up to 0.5 mm cut depth with no issues.

Isn't feed rate therefore as critical as depth of cut for the planing effect you suggest might be an issue with the DCMT inserts?

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I got as far as changing tips as I was going to see if the problem actually happened but all my flycutters are 8mm slot and my DC** holders 10mm sq.

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Obviously RPM and feed rates will affect the finish, but being a complete novice I usually try new ideas on a bit of scrap first in order to find what gives me the best results. I thought of using this tool because I am not too good at grinding HSS tooling and a good friend had recommended a fair radius for fly cutting. The parts shown were for my fibre optic clock, the subject of a build thread in the clock section.

I should have posted this here I guess, just to say what I did as a result of the advice given (it's also in another thread). I got a selection of 4 types of insert from Cutwel. Ordered 16:30 yesterday, arrived this morning. DCMT, DCGT, 0.2mm and 0.8mm nose radius, some for cast iron, some for non-ferrous and others for steel. There was an online chat thing, so I was able to confirm I was getting the best inserts for my tools and what I wanted to do:

John, how do you get on with aright hand tool when I put one in my flycutter it would need to run in reverse and it also puts the insert off of the radial line so you end up with negative rake.

To use these create the standard v thread profile and then change the Variants property to select the other alternatives. They have a lot of seamlines, but ...

One for Michael. Straight lines left you a flycutter swinging a 50mm dia, sorry I did not do the whole surface aut even with this exaggerated stepover of 0.005" it takes a while. None of those toolmarks can actually be felt with a fingernail.

DCMT 07 are cheap and easily available on ebay from China, if you are willing to wait 10 days, Inserts for steel and for aluminium are much better quality now compared to ten years ago.