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You’re going to want to use some kind of lubrication for aluminum. You can get by without anything for a short amount of time, but it’ll be riskier the longer you go without. If you’re planning on letting your router buzz away for 4 hours unattended, don’t expect your cutter to still be in one piece when you get back if it’s run dry.

But how do you know what carbide inserts and cutter bodies to buy? And why are there so many different grades of carbide inserts out there? Good questions; we’ll start with the second one first. Unlike a few decades ago, when machinists had just a few grades to choose from, there are now dozens of inserts grades, coatings, and chip-breakers available.

If possible, get to your Z cut level off the workpiece, and then start cutting. That’s not always possible, though. Sometimes you need to get the tool in from the middle of a thick sheet.

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Cutting wax can be smeared all over the top surface of where you want to cut, and it’s great because it sticks on – even a downward exhaust won’t take it off.

Many of these are tailor-made for specific materials or material groups. For instance, a shop making aerospace components can greatly increase efficiency by purchasing carbide inserts designed for tough, heat-resistant superalloys (HRSA) such as Inconel and Hastelloy. The same is true for medical shops, which tend to cut corrosion-resistant, biocompatible materials like 316 stainless steel, cobalt chrome alloy, and titanium. Automakers can dial in their processes by using inserts optimized for cast iron and low carbon steel, while oil and gas producers benefit from tooling that excels in duplex steel.

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Aluminum needs a lot more rigidity that wood or plastic. If you push it too fast, you might actually be able to see your machine flex under the load, if not rattle loose.

For a ramp on shape motion (some CAM software might call it something different) you’ll trace the profile that you’re wanting to cut while the tool slowly descends. It’s typically something like a zigzag motion. For most CAM software, it’s just a matter of checking a box and punching in your ramp angle. I usually go with something around two degrees.

Not so with routers. They’re way more finicky, and since each machine is a bit different, it’s almost impossible to know beforehand what the “sweet spot” is unless you know your machine well. A homemade hobby router will be very different from a large router that’s professionally built for aerospace composites.

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This may or may not work. It’ll totally depend on how good your machine is. If your machine is home-made and reminiscent of a wet noodle, you might want to cut those feed rates down by half. If it’s a $100k machine, you could probably double it if you want to push it.

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For helical interpolation, you’re just making a spiral instead of a zigzag. This works well for holes, or when you’re making a pocket.

When it comes to cutting tool selection, machinists have three basic choices: brazed carbide tool bits, indexable tooling with carbide inserts, and solid tools made of carbide or high-speed steel (HSS). This article will explain why the middle choice—indexable turning, milling, and drilling tools—is often the best choice for productive, cost-effective machining.

This works amazing for work that will be done at a single or shallow Z depth, like when you’re working with sheet metal or engraving. If you’re doing deeper work with lots of Z levels, wax will do a better job of lubricating just the first pass.

Web applications like Kennametal’s NOVO system not only guide users through the cutting tool selection process, but also help with job management and provide numerous video tutorials.

They’re not hard to set up. All you need is a kit, compressed air and a bit of oil. The whole package will cost you under $100 (assuming you have an air compressor), so if you use your router reasonably often it’s a really smart upgrade.

2) Some cutters do need a minimum RPM to properly use their features. For example, you need to run some coated endmills at a minimum RPM to “activate” their coatings. You will not likely be entering this arena of high performance machining with a router.

Probably the simplest is just hanging out while it’s cutting and giving it intermittent sprays of WD-40. It you’re like me, you’ve probably already got 6 or 7 half-full cans of the stuff on your shelves and in your toolboxes. No reason to overcomplicate this.

Not impossible, though. You can use those little red extension tubes that come with the can to help get the oil right to the tool. It’s just a little annoying because the air will blow away any oil that’s more than an inch or two away from the tool so you have to monitor it closely. I have a water-cooled spindle so it’s no problem for me, but it depends on your setup.

Indexable cutting tools are especially important on CNC machinery, where the need to keep spindles turning at all times is critical. Here, machinists rely on indexable drills—often with coolant running through them—to make holes quickly, followed by indexable boring bars to finish machine them. Indexable face mills true up large flat surfaces; indexable end mills rough out pockets and cut slots; indexable profiling tools trace complex part shapes. There’s very little that can’t be machined with indexable cutting tools.

This is because the tool is no longer under cutting pressure to stabilize it, and the vibration and runout cause the tool to make a slight gouge.

Another factor is your RPM – larger tools need a lower RPM, so if you can get down to 15,000 RPM then the 1/4″ endmill will generally work well. If you can’t go less than 25,000 or 30,000 RPM then you might not want to use anything more than a 1/8″ or 3/16″ cutter.

Where machinists and toolmakers once had to grind special shapes into their brazed or solid carbide tools, they now have the option of buying off-the-shelf indexable inserts in a huge variety of geometries and styles. Need to cut a 1/16” wide groove in a shaft? How about an Acme thread, or a 45-degree chamfer around a part periphery? These and other insert shapes are readily available, no grinding necessary.

Avoid plunging down into the metal whenever possible. Some tools are better designed for this that others, but it’s generally best avoided entirely. Unless you’re dealing with very thin sheet metal, that is. Then it’s not a big deal.

For a 1/4″ tool on a rinky dink machine, try starting of at a depth of 0.010″ and go up in 0.010″ increments. For the same tool on a solid machine, try starting at 0.050″ and going up in increments of 0.025″. Listen for when the machine seems to be under load, or when the cut starts to look ugly.

The cutting parameters and quality of cut will depend a lot on how rigid your machine is. Small hobby routers and the big $100k machines are very different.

This is why I really like using carbide 2 or 3-flute endmills whenever possible; they have enough chip clearance to reduce the chance of the aluminum welding itself to the cutter through friction, but they’re much stronger than the 1 flute endmills. Your cuts will look cleaner, and the tool won’t break as easily.

When I built my first router in my dad’s garage, I was really excited to make all kinds of things with plastic and aluminum. I went to school for machining, and I worked in shops with some pretty high-end CNCs.

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For the heavy duty CNC milling machines at work, my go-to was a 1″ diameter solid carbide roughing endmill for tough alloy steels.

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Honestly, you’re just going to need to play with it. That chart should give you an idea of what to look for to adjust the feeds and speeds to something that suits your machine.

Simply put, if there’s an alloy out there, the chances are excellent that a material-specific carbide grade is available to cut it. However, some shops machine aluminum one day, iron the next, and titanium the day after that, often in low quantities. Does this mean they need to bloat their tool crib with dozens upon dozens of different carbide insert grades and geometries, many of which will only be used occasionally?

Complex naming systems aside, however, choosing the right insert for your machining application isn’t as difficult as it might appear. That’s because cutting tool manufacturers have developed online tool advisors that walk machinists and programmers through the tool selection process. For example, Kennametal’s NOVO prompts users to answer questions about the metal removal process (milling, turning, or holemaking), the machine tool that will be used, workpiece material and removal amount, and expected depths of cut. It then generates a machining strategy along with insert and toolholder suggestions, ordering information, product availability, feed and speed recommendations, and more.

Small tools work much better – but even still you need to know what kind of tool to use for aluminum. They’re different from plastic-cutting tools.

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To get it to lubricate further down, you need to reapply it in that recently-cut channel. Not the end of the world, but I always like to let machines run without me babysitting them.

CNC mills and lathes are generally very predictable in how rigid they are. That’s why we can calculate optimal speeds and feeds without too much testing.

Don’t get too worked up about this. If your router is fixed RPM (or very limited) then just adjust based on feed rate and depth of cut. It ain’t rocket science, just make it work.

The Mill 16™ series is a perfect fit for most cast iron face milling requirements with high feed rates to boost productivity and reduce cycle time.

This numbering system chart from the Kennametal Innovations catalogprovides a guide to the company’s extensive assortment of turning inserts. Other manufacturers offer similar guidelines.

Here’s a link to the 1/4″ endmill for aluminum. If you have a decently rigid home build, it should work fine. If you have a small machine, then you should start off by trying a 3/16″ or 1/8″ cutter. Those all have a 1/4″ shank so you don’t need to change your collet when swapping them.

Kennametal's KCS10B turning grade provides easy wear identification. It's ideal for medium machining and finishing operations of nickel-based (S3), cobalt-based (S2), and iron-based (S1) high-temperature alloys.  The extremely hard, wear-resistant carbide substrate allows for longer tool life, while the ultra-fine-grain carbide substrate and smoother coating reduces friction.

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That leads us to indexable carbide inserts, the workhorses of the machining industry. As with old-fashioned brazed tools, indexables also utilize small bits of carbide. The difference is how they’re attached. Rather than a permanent braze, indexable tooling relies on a screw or clamp to secure the carbide insert to the tool body. When the edge becomes worn, swapping it out only takes seconds. More importantly, there’s no loss of position or need to “touch off” the tool. Just remove the old insert, stick in a fresh one, and get to work.

In general, you’d want to keep your chips small – something like 0.001″ per tooth for a 1/4″ endmill, and less than half that for a 1/8″ endmill.

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When disengaging from the workpiece (like when the profile is cut and now it’s time to get the tool out of there) a straight retract usually works fine. The only problem that’s common is to have a notch on the part profile where the tool retracted.

The textbook cutting speed for aluminum using a carbide tool is about 1,500 surface feet per minute at the high end, and 1,000 at the lower end. That’s not to say that you can’t spin it slower – you definitely can. But usually you don’t want to go faster than that.

Probably not. Just as there’s no shortage of indexable carbide tooling optimized for certain materials, there’s also no shortage of excellent general-purpose cutting tools. These represent a middle ground between performance and the tool crib bloat just mentioned. That said, the decision to go the material-specific route is a delicate balancing act—if a job’s going to be in the machine for more than a few days or is sure to come around again in a month or two, it almost always makes sense to buy carbide inserts designed for that material.

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1) The machining handbook recommends a minimum RPM, so some people assume that the tool needs to be run at that RPM. That’s not what it means. It just means that you’re not achieving maximum efficiency for the tool. Not a big deal.

Now it’s pretty unlikely that you have a 96,000 RPM machine, but this should give you an idea of how cutter diameter affects RPM. If your minimum speed is 30k RPM, then you might want to shy away from 1/4″ endmills for aluminum in favor of something 3/16″ or 1/8″.

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HSS tool bits present a similar story. They’ve been around even longer than brazed carbide. They’re much less expensive than carbide and there’s no need for brazing—just sharpen the tip however you want and get cutting. Sadly, you won’t be cutting very long or very quickly because HSS boasts a cutting speed of just one-fourth that of tungsten carbide, and even less compared to some of the newer, coated grades. HSS might be fine for hobbyists with loads of time on their hands, but carbide is the first choice for professional machine shops.

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If you really have no choice and you have to plunge straight into the material, cut your feed rate waaaay down. Like if you’re running the profile cuts at 20 inches per minute, turn the plunge feed rate down to 4. Even then, pay close attention to see how it goes.

Last but not least is the whole topic of insert nomenclature. It’s a deep subject, one filled with exceptions and cutting tool-specific rules. Regardless, most manufacturers follow the ANSI or ISO tool identification system (and sometimes both). We won’t get into the details here except to say that it uses an alphanumeric code to specifies an insert’s shape (round, square, triangular, etc.), clearance angle (neutral to positive), tolerance (some inserts are pressed to size, while others are ground), the size of the locating hole (if any) and clamping method, its size and thickness, corner radii, and various other defining features (see the chart above for an example).

To counteract this, use an “arc-off” motion. Basically, instead of just having the tool stop on the part profile, add an extra little arc movement in the XY that will get the tool away from the finished geometry when it’s no longer under cutting pressure and free to leave a mark.

It’s really not a bad idea, though. If you want to do the upgrade and have the resources to pull it off, I’d definitely recommend installing one. I use mine all the time for plastics and metals.

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If it’s heavy aluminum, try not to just jam the tool straight down. What works way better is a ramping motion to get down to the required Z depth for the cut.

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For as long as there’s been tungsten carbide (which is roughly nine decades), machinists have been brazing small hunks of it to steel shanks and then grinding a sharp edge on the result. These brazed carbide tool bits and boring bars are easy to make, customizable to the application, and inexpensive. Unfortunately, their effectiveness depends on the machinist’s brazing and grinding skills. And since the tool must be removed from the mill or lathe for sharpening, they also lead to significant and costly machine downtime.

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That statement extends to HSS rotary tool bits such as end mills, drills, and reamers, all of which are used daily throughout the manufacturing industry. That’s a shame. Yes, these tools are less expensive than their solid carbide alternatives, but as mentioned, they’re also far less wear-resistant, predictable, and productive. These factors explain why leading cutting tool manufacturers emphasize the importance of carbide tooling to their customers and why many have stopped offering HSS cutting tools altogether.

Over time, there will be dozens of tips and tricks that you’ll pick up. This should be enough information to get you started with some pretty cool projects.

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Typically I’ll use a 1/4″ endmill since my machine can handle it well; I’ve done a few mods to make it a bit more rigid. If your machine is really little, you might want to use a 1/8″ endmill for cutting profiles.

HSS is cheap but not really all that great. That’s why you usually see a lot of HSS in high schools – when the students mess something up, it doesn’t cost the school as much (they’ll break the tools before they get a chance to wear), and nobody really cares how fast their cycle time is.

Basically, low spindle speeds are not a good reason to switch to HSS cutters. The only time that this makes sense is if you’re just starting out and you’re afraid of breaking a tool – Carbide is more expensive, but they work better and last significantly longer.

There is an area where this doesn’t work the best: if you have a router with a downwards exhaust. I mean like those big Porter-Cable types of wood routers that have lots of power. They’ll blow a ton of air all around the tool, without actually getting air to the tool. It can be pretty tricky to get a decent spray around that air blast.

Long story short, carbide insert selection is much easier than it once was, even though the number of cutting tool options has grown exponentially since the days of brazed carbide and HSS tool bits. Download a catalog, log in to NOVO, or give your local cutting tool representative a call. You’ll be making chips in no time.