I have been using “TOYO” glass cutters for 15 years they are supposed to be filled with oil but I never have put any oil in them and they still cut glass perfectly. Bernard

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Same here. In fusing, the oil can get trapped before it burns off which leaves a scummy spot. In beadmaking the oil burns off fast enough it has never been a problem for me.

The oil also helps preserve the life of the cutting wheel. You’ll need to clean the oil off before torching. If you don’t mind buying a new cutter more often, you could skip the oil, and save the cleaning. Unless you start branching out into stained glass or fusing you’ll only be doing simple straight cuts so your cutter quality will be little less of an issue. I think I read in a fusing book that fusers will sometimes cut dry to avoid the oil.

So I originally bought oil for my toyo cutters and filled one – but then was told not to – so to this day I have one that sits with oil in and I dont seem to have any problems cutting glass without oil for any thing I do including painted pieces.

thanks so much for the answers! I cut a few pieces, based on your advice, without waiting to buy oil. Not sure I ever will considering I won’t be using it that much.

I bought glass cutting oil that I bought at glass company to fill my cutter. I was afraid that just household oil could maybe gum it up but I’m not sure about that. Maybe someone will know more about it.

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I’m sure I’ll get it with practice but it’s a quick way to burn through $5 bucks for these scummy things I took out of the kiln this morning.

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Its true you dont have to use oil the oil is more for the glass than the cutter,as a gazier,and a stained glass artist for the last 29 years, the oil cools the score from the glass cutter making the run clean, if no oil is used you can get a HOT score that pops that can make the run go off the score.

You can mix 3 in 1 oil with kerosene to make a mix viscous enough to run through your glass cutter. I think a 2 to 1 mix is what’s recommended.

I’ve been working stained glass for 5 years now and I have never seen an increase in my cutter head being dulled whether I use oil or not. The theory is that the oil lubricates the cutter head and, thus, you don’t dull it as fast. Truth is- glass is glass and I don’t see a difference. I know quite a few stained glass people who NEVER use oil, including me.

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just 3 in one is fine .or go to any stained glass shop and get a little bottle for 5 bucks it will last a long long time.

Does everyone else do this? I always clean off pieces I am using for fusing but never bother cleaning my strips for beadmaking. For some reason I have never had a problem. It must just burn clean off.

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to cut glass for beads and it’s hollow and says its an “Oil hand cutter”. I guess I’m supposed to fill it with oil. What kind? Can I just use something out of the cupboard?

Just put a sponge in the bottom of a small jar (baby food size) and put some oil on the sponge. Run the wheel back and forth over the sponge and then score the glass.

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In my first fusing classes I was told “not” to use the oil as you would spend a whole lot of time cleaning and making sure every little piece was free from oil as any oil trapped when fusing would make boo boo’s (very technical term)

For all the good it did me. I have this love/hate relationship with dicro. Love the way it looks on other people’s beads, hate the way it scums on mine.

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Does everyone else do this? I always clean off pieces I am using for fusing but never bother cleaning my strips for beadmaking. For some reason I have never had a problem. It must just burn clean off.

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Althought my circle cutter does like oil on its cutter to give me better edges – but who knows – it seems everyone has a different style

For lampworking, if you choose to use oil, please please wash every piece of glass well before you put the oily coated edges of your glass in a flame. And if you choose to use oil, either buy the s.g. cutters oil or (as I use) an odorless spirit of mineral oil (I think it’s actually turpentine but I’m at work and can’t look at the can). Sewing machine oil or 3-in-1 isn’t what you want– at least, I don’t think it is. I would have to compare ingredients before saying that for sure…

If I’m scoring a large sheet of glass, I take a small brush and pick up some oil from the sponge, then paint a light line of oil down the glass, then score it.

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I think i know what cutter you may have, well i dunno there are like 4 or 5 that are hollow and say to fill with oil. I have 3 of them like that and i don’t fill mine with oil of any sort, the place i learned to do stained glass dosent’ put oil in theirs also if that helps yo out at all. if you do decide to put oil in your cutter i don’t know what kind you would use. Lindz

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Being a “stained glass” person before bead making, I was taught to only use cutting oil for the pistol grip glass cutter that I think you have. I wouldn’t even consider using any thing else. The oil acts as a lubricant and makes the score much more precise, thus making the break easier too. It should make a kinda sizzle sound if you’re scoring properly. If no oil or lubricant is used, I think it would be like finger nails on a blackboard……

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