Q: What degree of angle can the Engle Angle be adjusted to?A:  The Engle Angle adjusts between an inside angle of 30° and an outside angle of 85°

But not all saws have a laser, so we boosted the thickness of the upper section of the handle and replaced the rivet found on the Stanley with a threaded knob. With one leg unlinked and folded out of the way, you have a longer, taller reference area next to your saw blade. No scales to read, no judgements about where degree fractions should land, just a solid reference to a perfectly bisected angle.

Endmills also have hardened shanks like taps and and drills do not. Drill chuck jaws are designed to grab onto and dig into an unhardened shank.

End mills are designed to work off the ends of the tool, i.e. they are driven laterally into the work. They are built for this kind of shear stress, and not to be driven axially.

Woodpeckers Engle Angles introduce modern materials and manufacturing techniques to a classic trim carpentry tool. In 1903 one of Stanley Tool Works most prolific engineers patented the #30 Angle Divider. By fitting the connected legs into an existing corner, the tool bisects the angle automatically. This is particularly important when mitering trim for existing structures. Corners that should be 90° usually aren't. If the corner is 88° instead of 90°, the Engle Angle bisects the angle and you'll get 44° instead of 45°. Similarly, if you have to trim around walls with hexagon or octagon corners you can get perfect bisections of those angles just as easily, whether the existing structure is "spot on" or "kinda close".

So you say these things are "the reverse of", they are not the reverse at all. Using an end mill in a drill press is a completely different kind of operation than using a drill in a mill. An end mill in a drill press doesn't make a whole lot of sense (except in rare cases. And yes, squaring the bottom of a hole is one of them, because the end mill doesn't have to cut the center of the hole).

Similar to our other re-designs of early Stanley classics, Engle Angles honor the original design but go further with tightened up tolerances and modern materials. The body is machined from aircraft grade aluminum on CNC mills, then anodized in our familiar “Woodpeckers Red” finish. The marking legs and knobs are all stainless steel. Nylon washers protect the sliding joints. It's a tool that will look as good as it works for generations to come. While the Engle Angle 6" can bisect any inside angle from 30° to 180° and any outside angle from 180° to 85°, Engle Angle MINI can do the same for any inside angle from 30⁰ to 180⁰ and any outside angle from 180⁰ to 110⁰. A padded storage hanger is included to keep your Engle Angle right in plain sight and always ready to go to work.

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Mills, on the other hand are designed to take all the forces of a drill press and more. A mill is a super set of a drill press so anything a drill press can do a mill can do, except for drilling unclamped workpieces (so the piece can move to allow the drill to find the center punch hole. Always use a safety stop bolted to the table to prevent workpiece spinning, especially small parts), since all mill workpieces must be fixtured.

Whereas a drill in a mill makes a lot of sense. Of course you are just drilling holes, but the mill gives you unbelievable ability to position the work precisely (especially with multiple holes that need to have a relationship with each other!) that you just don't have on a drill press. You can also use the mill's auto-feed to maintain feeds correctly, and it typically has better control of speeds as well.

Drill chucks are not mill chucks and a Jacobs taper is not a CAT taper. Drill chucks and Jacobs tapers are not designed to tolerate the radial/side force of an endmill. Thy can be pried apart as a result. Even if they aren't, the bearings in a drill press won't take the side load.

Drill bits are designed for axial forces not lateral ones - they fall to pieces when driven laterally. And drill bits have a vital feature end mills do not: the ability to cope with the varying tool speeds radially, and particularly the ability to drill in the center where tool speed is zero. End mills simply are not made for that!

Like all Woodpeckers products, Engle Angle is precisely machined and carefully inspected in our Strongsville, Ohio, facility just south of Cleveland.

Back in 1903 the proud owner of a #30 would match his angle, mark his material and cut to the line with a sharp hand saw. That will certainly work with an Engle Angle, but we're well aware that the vast majority of folks today are using power miter saws instead of hand saws. If you have a miter saw with a laser, mark your material then use the laser to line up to your mark…almost like they did it in 1903.

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Q: What are the dimensions of the Engle Angle?A: The handle is 7 ¼” in length and the arms are 6” in length measuring from the hole. The handle is 7/8” in width and the arms are 1/16”.

Reverse of "Is it possible to use a drill press as a milling machine with the proper bit?". I'd think it would, but I imagine a CNC mill might be taking off less "material per unit time" than a drill press. Also, would the fluting be different for a CNC mill and drill press?