When concentricity matters I prefer not to go the rounds on the DRO, instead changing the tool without moving the table. Slightly tedious even with collets, but, provided everything is locked, the centre drill, tap drill, and milling cutter will all be on the same axis.

The fine feed on mine was pretty hopeless in terms of adjusting any binding out, so I turned the worm wheel teeth down a fraction, and it's now much better, albeit still with about half a turn of free play…

Well, all I can say is that it has worked for me using a slot drill though I would normally lock the quill lever feed and use the milling downfeed, and my mill is a bit heavier than an SX2. I've also used a slot drill in the lathe tailstock in an ordinary chuck to drill holes when I've wanted a flat bottomed hole. Try it and see is my motto, though of course you don't want to spoil a casting.

Masonry drill bits are designed to penetrate hard materials like brick. They have a carbide or tungsten carbide tip that can withstand the heat and friction generated when drilling into brick. When selecting a masonry bit, opt for high-quality bits for better performance and longevity. Consider a set with various sizes for different projects.

After placing the tip of the drill bit on the mark, tap the back of the drill with the palm of your hand once or twice. This tap allows the tip of the bit to dig into the brick just enough to stay centered on the mark while drilling.

My preference would be to take a piece of silver steel, drill with the same clearance drill that was used for the hole then cut off a small length. Over to the vice and file four teeth in the end then cross drill & tap for a grub screw before hardening.

In theory it's not ideal, as a slot drill is ground slightly concave. But in practice it's fine. However, I'd use a different sequence of operations, especially if the surface isn't machined:

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Spot hole angle fixapp

For spot facing the depth of cut is small so I just set the depth stop on the quill and use that. For deeper counterbores, like those in the ellipses in the casting shown above done with a 7/8" endmill, I lock the quill and use the knee to move the work rather than the tool.

With the right tools and techniques, you can drill into brick to ensure your picture frames, TVs, and more are stable and secure.

Drilling into brick may seem daunting, but with the right tools and techniques, it’s a manageable task for many homeowners. You may need to drill into brick if you’re hanging a picture, mounting a TV, or installing exterior fixtures. This guide will walk you through the process, from knowing where to drill to finishing your project and maintaining your tools.

Spotdrill bit

Most modular bricks aren’t hollow, so the brick dust often sits in the hole. That dust can obstruct an anchor or screw, so you need to remove it before attaching anything to the brick. Plus, brick dust can be messy and potentially harmful if inhaled.

Since you already have the vacuum out, this is a good time to sweep and clean the floor. Wait until you’re done before mopping so the floor isn’t wet while you’re working.

If you encounter unexpected resistance or a metallic sound, stop drilling immediately and try drilling in a slightly different location. If you consistently hit metal, consult a professional. There may be structural elements you need to avoid.

As you can see, none of the spot faces are concentric; if anything they are all displaced outwards approximately diagonally from the centre of the casting. The concentricity error would easily have been picked up on the DROs, so I assume it must be tool deflection.

When deciding where to drill, you’ll need to choose between the brick itself and the mortar joints. As a general rule, always drill into the brick unless you’re hanging something very light (under two pounds). Mortar is much softer than brick and doesn’t have the strength to hold significant weight. Mortar deteriorates faster than brick, which could compromise the stability of your installation over time.

Regarding the head movement – this is something I did ponder. One recommendation for this mill is to fit a gas strut to more effectively balance the head. I have done this already.

Spotdrill depth

Lastly, I like to double check positions occasionally with a ruler, divider, markings, or reference points on the work piece.

Some hammer drills come with stops that prevent the user from drilling past a certain depth. If your drill has a stop, set it so that the measurement between the tip of the bit and the end of the stop matches your desired depth. If you don’t have a stop, you can measure and mark the drill bit with the permanent marker at your desired depth

Fortunately, I erred on the side of caution, and despite them just accomodating the point-point diameter of the nuts (had they been right), the spot faces are a bit too small, so I can correct them. I'll try making a spot facing tool as per Neil's suggestion (although I've no idea exactly how to make and harden the tools!).

In theory it's not ideal, as a slot drill is ground slightly concave. But in practice it's fine. However, I'd use a different sequence of operations, especially if the surface isn't machined:

Or you may even have or be able to buy a suitable boring bar and turn or sleeve the end to fit your drilled hole in the job.

So I drilled the sole plate and box bed on the 10V, and tried spot-facing with a slot drill. It didn't work very well. The sequence was:

Holding the drill perpendicular to the wall, slowly squeeze the trigger and put pressure on the drill so it can dig in. As the drill bit begins to penetrate, you can increase the speed. Every 10 seconds or so, remove the spinning drill slightly to remove the brick dust clogging the hole.

The cross drilling is easily done by making a drill bushing the same diameter as the bar you want to drill, with a hole up the middle same as the drill size you want to use. Then clamp the bar in the drill vice, with the bushing sitting between the jaws above it where you want to drill the hole. Easy peasy.

Once you’re done, vacuum and mop any brick dust up off finished floors. Brick dust is abrasive and can scratch hardwood or tile.

Turn a piece of mild steel bar to fit in the drilled hole in your job, with a few thou clearance. Then drill and tap a hole in the end for a small grub screw. A small allen-type high tensile grub screw is best.

BTW unless I'm mistaken, on the SX2P there is no option to lock the quill feed becasue there isn't a quill feed. The head can only be moved up and down directly by the rack and pinion using the hand wheel, or the fine feed wheel which is effectively the same thing but with an additional worm drive to drive the rack pinion.

Is there a good method to stop a tool grabbing when feeding vertically? I guess using the adjustable z-limit block is an option for restricting the very end on the hole, but it doesn't prevent the heart stopping moment when a tool (eg slot drill) momentarily pulls itself into the workpiece.

A jackscrew, such as those used to raise homes and other structures, combines the usefulness of the screw and the lever. The lever is used to turn the screw.

However, with a poorly balanced head (ie it wants to move downwards under gravity), I wonder if this is actually a benefit? Isn't a balanced head more likely to chatter due to backlash on the rack and pinion when drilling, or any operation where the head needs to be moved vertically?

In this situation, the flat-bottomed cutting tool can chatter. Any slight flex of the drilling table also does not help. Sensible use of a rigid depth stop and a strut under the table can improve results dramatically. Experiment on a scrap piece of the same material to get a feel for the operation.

Yes no problem. Or drill the hole first then you can use an ordinary end mill that isn't centre cutting (unless your intention is to provide a flat face for the drill).

Proper tool maintenance will ensure your equipment lasts longer and performs better for future projects. We recommend cleaning bits thoroughly with a wire brush to remove brick dust. Also, apply a light coating of machine oil to prevent rust. Store bits in a dry place, preferably in a case to protect the tips.

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When fitting the DRO make sure the track is correctly aligned and firmly fixed. If not spot on it tends to bend and spring as the head moves causing readings to jump or lose step. Give the XY scales a good test by winding the table back and fro to measure a largish rectangular plate repeatedly: if the DRO is misbehaving, failure to get the same reading ±0.02mm at each point will highlight it.

In use just fit it to a bar turned to fit the hole if not a stock size and away you go. For a small hole like this I may use a longer length of par and simply loctite the pilot into the end.

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Spotdrillangle

More likely that the slides moved under the influence of the cutter. If the two flutes are not cutting evenly, which they won't do on a casting, the cutter can easily drag the table. Been there, done that.

To manage it, have someone hold a vacuum nozzle near the drilling site to catch dust as you work. If you’re working alone, stop periodically to vacuum the area. Use the hose and crevice nozzle attachment on a running shop vac to remove the dust.

Proper preparation helps you achieve accurate and safe results when drilling into brick. Before you start drilling, set up your work area by following these steps:

DNMG Insert, TNMG Insert When making the choice of turning insert ... general turning or for finishing or roughing. Here, it is important to note ...

Spot hole angle fixreviews

BLACKMAIL A couple of ‘soon to be available in the UK’ lathes that look interesting What did you do Today 2024 Jaguar [oh dear] Sandvik inserts – parting off Split Cotter Clamp upgrade – Clarke Combination Lathe 775 Motor based Dynamo ? Diesel Heaters Jakobs Gear Hobber from scrap (no casting) MEW 346 creates new definition of ‘universal’,

With the right tools and techniques, you can drill into brick to ensure your picture frames, TVs, and more are stable and secure.

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After putting on your safety glasses, mask, and earplugs (hammer drills are loud), set your drill to its highest speed and the hammer setting (if so equipped).

Continue the cycle of drilling and removing the bit until you’ve hit your adjustable stop or the permanent marker/painter’s tape on the drill bit.

I've done this a few times and it works well and is less work than making a "proper" spot facing cutter from silver steel and hardening and tempering it etc etc.

A power drill is the most important tool for this job. While a standard drill can work, a hammer drill is ideal for brick. Hammer drills combine rotary motion with a hammering action, making them more effective for masonry work. Here are some key features to look for in a drill:

Safety should always be a priority when drilling into brick. Here’s the safety equipment to have on hand before you start:

The first step to drilling into brick is to mark the location. You’ll probably want to use a tape measure to find the center of the wall, the proper height, or the correct spacing between objects.

Nov 27, 2021 — If we change the HSS straight blades to a spiral cutter head for an electric hand planer, then the fine woodworking is not a problem ...

You have the same inexpensive DROs as me and I keep an eye on mine! As error tends to accumulate when DROs are moved unchecked over several traverses, I decide on a reference point like a corner and periodically check by returning to it that 0,0 hasn't moved. And rather than zigzagging, I find it safer to cut all the holes on a straight line in one go because then the table moves in only one dimension at a time.

If you’re hanging something on the wall, use the hardware that came with the item, or an anchor or masonry screw kit. You can either drive this hardware using a drill with a driver bit attached, a screwdriver (this can be tough on the forearms), or a socket and ratchet in the case of hex head masonry screws.

Spot hole angle fixtool

Either way, the end of the bar sits in the hole in the job and keeps the cutter running concentric (well close enough for spot facing purposes).

Spotdrill vs center drill

Ultimately though, even with the fine feed (ie handweheel dog clutch engaged) I think it's the enormous amout of backlash in the whole gear train and its bearings and keys that determines the vertical play.

I agree with you in suspecting a balanced head may not be as rigid as one with gravity pulling on it. But chaps who've fitted struts don't suddenly complain of poor finish. Maybe the gib locks dominate, and – if left unlocked – a strut absorb vibration just as well as a heavy head, perhaps better. Could be the ill-effects of balancing out the head's weight are cancelled out by the strut's shock absorbing qualities.

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Then back from the end a suitable distance, cross drill a hole just large enough for the piece of 1/8" square HSS to fit into. Grind the HSS like a lathe tool bit to cut on the edge facing downwards when the shaft is held in the drill/mill. You can even let the HSS stick out both sides and sharpen both edges. Clamp it in position with the grub screw.Be sure to grind plenty of back clearance on the ends so they don't rub on the curve of the spot faced counterbore.

That's a good tip Jason, thanks I will remember that one. When hardened is the hardness of the silver steel similar to that of a standard drill bit.?

Sep 1, 2017 — Although composite machining has traditionally been performed dry, new coolant technology has proven to prevent delamination, increase tool life and reduce ...

140 degreeSpotDrill

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Ensure the brick remains structurally sound, especially during extensive drilling tasks. Avoid drilling in rapid succession to prevent heat buildup. Use a drilling guide or jig to maintain consistent alignment. If in doubt, consult structural blueprints to avoid drilling into critical areas, such as load-bearing walls or supports.

As you mention 'drilling head', please be a little wary if carrying out this procedure in a drilling machine if the only depth control you have is your hand on the quill.

It's very easy to make a simpler type of spot facing tool, similar to a lathe boring bar made to hold a piece of 1/8" 0r 3/16" square HSS.

I set the DROs to the same co-ordiantes for each hole, to an indicated 0.01mm, and had no issue with the drilling or tapping processes being off-centre. The co-ordinates also matched the cast-in detents very well.

MMC is a precision machining company that specializes in turning (swiss and lathe), milling (vertical and horizontal), screw machine and rotary transfer work.

I did a subsequent test on some plain steel, exchanging the drill bits and slot drill, again with the axes locked, and it still gave a non-concentric circle. Perhaps the existing holes are dragging the cutter off centre? I should have tried cutting the spot face first.

So what diameter is the OD of the spot face? 6mm or so? Seems like a small and flimsy slot drill would flex and wander easily at that size on an uneven cast surface so your pilot cutter would work much better.

Feb 1, 2008 — Rockwell hardness testers · Andre' B 01:37 PM 02-01-2008. Tool steels up to 60 ...

Regarding the head movement – this is something I did ponder. One recommendation for this mill is to fit a gas strut to more effectively balance the head. I have done this already.

I did a subsequent test on some plain steel, exchanging the drill bits and slot drill, again with the axes locked, and it still gave a non-concentric circle. Perhaps the existing holes are dragging the cutter off centre? I should have tried cutting the spot face first.

Install the appropriate drill bit for your needs and tighten it down. For most tasks, you likely won’t have to drill the entire length of the bit. If you’re using a concrete anchor kit or masonry screws, refer to the packaging to determine the drilling depth.

Use a permanent marker to make your marks on the brick, being sure that the marks aren’t near the brick’s edges. Drilling near the edges can cause the brick to split and crumble. Make sure to stay more than an inch from any edge.

3. Spot face – while a slot drill is centre cutting if you're spotting only the cutting speed at the centre is zero. Best to avoid that by drilling the clearance hole first.

Thanks – I've seen that method in my Model Engineering book. However, if I can use tooling I've already got for small diameters like these, I might as well?

Home › Forums › Beginners questions › Spot Facing With Slot Drill? This topic has 85 replies, 20 voices, and was last updated 19 May 2020 at 17:01 by Anonymous. Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 86 total) 1 2 3 4 → Author Posts 8 May 2020 at 09:42 #470001 Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn All, Re. my Stuart 10V build – can I use a slot drill to spot face a casting? I'm thinking align the drilling head, spot face, then drill the clearance hole. Cheers.

However, with a poorly balanced head (ie it wants to move downwards under gravity), I wonder if this is actually a benefit? Isn't a balanced head more likely to chatter due to backlash on the rack and pinion when drilling, or any operation where the head needs to be moved vertically? It's not so relevant to horizontal milling because the gib can be locked.

3. Spot face – while a slot drill is centre cutting if you're spotting only the cutting speed at the centre is zero. Best to avoid that by drilling the clearance hole first.

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