Speeds and Feeds 101 - In The Loupe - feed rate formula
You know when you need to drill holes absolutely vertically. It's fine if they're near the edge of the body beacuse you can use a drill press or similar. The problem I have is when I want to drill holes further to the centre of teh body, and the throat of the drill press doesn't give me enough reach over the workpiece.
Trochoidalmilling vs conventional milling
The video below is not only a good example of how one would want to use a Trochoidal Milling tool path it also illustrates the reason why and when you would use a Trochoidal Tool path. I have searched the web high and low to find a good definition of Trochoidal Milling, but alas I have not been able to find one the hits all the key elements. There are several tool path options, circular, pill or football shaped, "D" shaped and more. Most CAM software now come with tool path choices. But there is more to Trochoidal Milling than just the tool path.
As you view the video you may ask yourself why there is no coolant. In reality coolant in milling operations in many but not all cases is a bad thing more than a good thing. What happens when you pour hot water onto a cold windshield? You buy a new windshield. Why? Because the rapid thermal transition from hot to cold causes the windshield to crack. The same thing happens in milling.
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I like DannoG's idea. I'd take it one step further, and drill your bridge mounting holes through it. In other words, place your bridge baseplate over the wood, (hardwood like maple) and drill all the holes, not just the string through holes. That way you can use the bridge mounting holes with some longer screws to screw your template to the body, locking it in place. And since you've used the actual baseplate, you should have perfect alignment when you install the bridge. I can't endorse using a router. I have that adjustable depth drill press that kd has pictured, and it's the greatest. If you're going to upgrade your drill press, definitely get one like that rather than one that's just barely big enough for bridge holes.
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As a temporary, cheap alternative to a new drill press, take a block of squared up hardwood, such as maple and drill guide holes of the proper diameter in it with your drill press. Then use it to align your hand drill on the guitar. It is tricky to drill in just the right spot, but if you make carefull measurements it should work well. After you have used the guide a few times it will get sloppy and you can make a new one. for the string through holes you could make a guide that spaces all 6 strings precisely, using the drill press.
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use just enough amperage by pressing on the foot pedal to barely melt and round the tip....you can easily see it get really hot quick on reverse polarity. Dont ...
Can you please suggest this cutting strategy for aluminium material like face milling ,ID milling and also grove milling.
A Trochoidal Milling tool path is one that utilizes a light radial width of cut usually in the range of (7 to 15%) of the tools diameter and a long length of cut usually greater than two-times the diameter. The light radial width of cut reduces radial forces and when coupled with a 45 degree or greater helix or cutting edge angle allows for the greater axial length of cut and good chip evacuation. In addition to reduced radial forces, the light radial engagement of the tool thins the chip.
This chip thinning action requires a significant increase in feed rate in order to create a chip thickness large enough to carry the heat away for the shear zone. This increased feed rate equals high metal removal rates and increased productivity. Another positive result of the light radial engagement and high feed rate is a reduction of heat transfer into the component being machined. This results in less thermal expansion of the part and more accurate size and tolerance control.
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IMPORTANT NOTE: There are many cases where coolant must be used; when machining superalloys or refractory metals, aluminum, some brasses and bronze materials. In cast iron, it's not required; however, it is sometimes used to keep the dust down. Use judgement; just remember coolant in milling requires cutting tool materials with higher cobalt content which requires slowing cutting speeds.
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If you must use coolant, you will need to use a cutting tool material with a higher Cobalt content. The higher Cobalt/Marshmallow allows the tool to manage the rapid temperature changes and expansion and contraction without cracking. Be careful though, tools with higher Cobalt content typically must be run at slower surface speeds.
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So I need to drill the holes for the strings to pass through a solid body fitted with a strat-type hardtail bridge. Would it be possible to use a router as a "movable drill press" with a drill bit (say 1/4) fitted into the collet? I've always heard that using a router for drilling was not recommended, But recently I saw that Trend do a range of drill bits specifically for the router. Do I need to use these only or could I use a regular drill bit? Alternatively could I use a straight router bit of the correct diameter and just plunge straight down to make larger holes (bridge / tailpiece studs, for example)?
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It depends. Seriously. Are you drilling with a hand drill/drill motor? Get a good cobalt drill, go slow, take your time, and be prepared to ...
The cutting edge is 1200-1400 degrees Fahrenheit when in the cut. When you use coolant the extreme and rapid temperature changes is called thermal cycling. The thermal cycling from hot to cold causes the tool to rapidly expand and contract which results in what we call thermal cracks. As the cracks grow and propagate through the tool you end up with catastrophic failure. So how do you evacuate the chips? Use compressed air.
well... If you ABSOLUTELY must use a router for drilling, and I am NOT by any means speaking from experience because I think it is absolutely nuts... harbor freight tools makes a piece that allows you to vary the speed that your router runs. I do not know how slow it will let you go, but it may get you closer to the speed that you will need to successfully accomplish what you need to do...
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Steve....I would not recommend using a twist drill bit or any other drill bit in a router unless it was specifically designed for that use. You have to remember, that a router is spinning at up to 20,000rpms....if that steel bit breaks up, you potentially have a very big on your hands.....no pun intended! If you can't drill the holes using a drill press, and you have to have these holes drilled exactly perpendicular....There is an inexpensive attachment to turns a hand drill into a hand held drill press. It bolts or screws onto the collar behind the chuck and has a mechanism similar to a plunge router's. If you have the $$$$$, Buy yourself a bigger drill press......You will find it invaluable in the long run. You can probably pick up a used 14 incher for $150.