Cutting at odd angles can lead to weird pressure on the workpiece. Clamp it securely in place, and if you can, clamp a stop on the back so it can’t shift.

Trace light pencil lines you can erase and test different angles. Walk a few steps away so you can see the bigger picture.

I can’t imagine anyone understanding my explanation without a couple pictures or a diagram, but at the time I couldn’t figure out a way that I felt was safe or accurate given my 3d modeling and woodworking skills and tools. Which I’m sure doesn’t say much for the WW skills :)

I agree the jointer approach in the video looks really dangerous, but I ended up using the jointer in a very different way. I 3d printed a jig to hold the leg at 45 and canted at the correct angle, very slightly down so the taper to be cut was below the “bottom” of the jig. Then I stood behind the jointer with hands braced on the fence and drew the piece back towards me over the blade. This way I could only trim a small sliver at a time working down to the final taper depth, all with keeping my hands far from the blade.

Apr 6, 2023 — I've not used that style but have used one that looked liked the working end of tin snips in a drill. It worked well for barn meral. Tom M ...

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I’ve been cutting 6061-T6 on my Nomad 883 Pro with Lakeshore Carbide 1/8’’ two flute ZrN endmill with a feedrate of 12ipm @8000rpm and a 0.01in DOC. It is sometimes very loud (especially in some directions weirdly). So it seems like I am going too slow according to your recommendation.

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Also worth pointing out that cutter diameter is crucial to material removal and ejection which is directly linked to the cut speeds you can attain,the larger the better.

Adding in deflection to the equations ensures that secondary and tertiary effects do not create problems… and tool life is improved.

ZrN or TiB2 will allow modest improvements in speeds and will increase the life of the end mill. Well worth the extra expense. C3D stuff is pretty good… but one can do a fair amount better. More below.

Make sure to support the offcut as you get close to finishing. You don’t want it to fall and rip off a bunch of fibers past the end of the taper.

Nice article, I spent ages figuring out how to do a taper at 45 on an already tapered leg. I almost did it with a table saw, but I backed out at the last moment because I didn’t have confidence my holding jig would work.

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Bonjour Jonathan, Having just moved to a smaller house, smaller land area and smaller shed I could not fit a table saw in. Would not fit my wallet either. So I bought a Rikon 10-324 bandsaw and a Festool track saw, the powered version. I have not used it for tapers yet but will doubtless set up a jig to do so. When I do I’ll forward details to you if you like. I have one of your dovetail 6:1 dovetail jigs and used it to make a small box, using Tasmanian Celery Top Pine insert in Tasmanian Myrtle mitred top, Camphor Laurel sides and Tas Blackwood base. Big enough to hold the TV controllers. Tung oil finish,can send a photo if you would like to se the results of your jig. Regards John

It also depends on what you are asking it to do,I do a lot of thin panel work so my technique is focused towards that,I have to work around panel lift as the center of the stock is normally unfixed and can be lifted by cutter action.

Taught from my father, the basic skills of cutter grinding, the variety of different cutting tools, and, most important a good work ethic.

Follow up by scribing a line on the end grain at the bottom of the leg with a square that lines up with where your taper line ends.

I rough 6061T6 on the Nomad @ 20 IPM, 10K RPM using 2 flute, ZrN/TiB2 coated end mills. The Nomad cannot use 0.25" end mills effectively for metals. I don’t even suggest trying.

The most common variants all machine similarly. Let’s ignore this for now. In general, one needs to know the specifics of the metal they are machining. My 6061 is 6061-T6511 (the 511 is getting super specific; not pertinent to this issue). Better to know than to not know… knowing allows for optimizations.

No need. 6061 is awesome. In the future, for general work, T6 is an excellent choice. T6 is very common so I wouldn’t be surprised that you have it. I would stay away from T1 until you’ve got some experience - and need it.

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I agree the jointer approach in the video looks really dangerous, but I ended up using the jointer in a very different way. I 3d printed a jig to hold the leg at 45 and canted at the correct angle, very slightly down so the taper to be cut was below the “bottom” of the jig. Then I stood behind the jointer with hands braced on the fence and drew the piece back towards me over the blade. This way I could only trim a small sliver at a time working down to the final taper depth, all with keeping my hands far from the blade.

After my test cuts and plugging in the values to a SFM and chipload calculator my next test was going to be 10krpm 20IPM so it sounds like that’s a good combination.

Me, I never use C3D numbers. I do them myself, starting with G-Wizard recommendations. I factor in deflection so my rates tend to be lower than some but I get a great finish.

If you plan on using hand tools, also mark a line on the long grain edge where the taper will be. Use this line and the end grain line to set up a straight edge and mark the other edge's taper line.

But figuring out the best way to cut a taper takes a bit of creativity. Afterall, so much of woodworking is cutting straight and square.

Put a flush trim bit in your router or router table. Set it up so the bearing will ride along the straight edge. Now make the cut.

Nice article, I spent ages figuring out how to do a taper at 45 on an already tapered leg. I almost did it with a table saw, but I backed out at the last moment because I didn’t have confidence my holding jig would work.

All I cut is Alu,mainly T6,I use a combination of a 3mm 2flute 45 Helix cutter at 16000-17000 Rpm with a .17mm DoP with a feed of 400mm/min,Alu I find favours a thin and fast approach rather than the Ron Jeremy Deep and Slow,I finish with about 200-250 mm/min,similar to Marks approach.

If you have a double-sided Ryoba saw, I like to start the kerf with the crosscut side. Once the kerf’s established, switch to the ripping side with bigger teeth.

Bonjour Jonathan, Having just moved to a smaller house, smaller land area and smaller shed I could not fit a table saw in. Would not fit my wallet either. So I bought a Rikon 10-324 bandsaw and a Festool track saw, the powered version. I have not used it for tapers yet but will doubtless set up a jig to do so. When I do I’ll forward details to you if you like. I have one of your dovetail 6:1 dovetail jigs and used it to make a small box, using Tasmanian Celery Top Pine insert in Tasmanian Myrtle mitred top, Camphor Laurel sides and Tas Blackwood base. Big enough to hold the TV controllers. Tung oil finish,can send a photo if you would like to se the results of your jig. Regards John

Secondly, it’s difficult to get super repeatable results. You can definitely get close, but the tapers might not be identical.

for 1/16, 1/8, and 1/4 end mills it recommends 9000RPM for them all and feed rates of 13, 36, and 18 IPS respectively. the 36 IPM seems a bit fast relative to what I read people here using. Does anyone cut that fast?

After my test cuts and plugging in the values to a SFM and chipload calculator my next test was going to be 10krpm 20IPM so it sounds like that’s a good combination. What depth of cut do you use? Do you recommend any specific end mills?

Start by flipping the leg upside down in a vise. It’s easier to start sawing in the end grain than to come into the long grain at an angle. Angle the leg so you can cut straight down.

The multi-sled I built is the ultimate tapering machine. It lets you cut tapers at any angle and is dead simple to build (free plans available).

For one, it’s hard to stabilize the track on narrow legs. You can use the other legs to help create even support, and that can work ok.

Sorry I’m using the 1/8" two flute endmill that came with my Nomad 883 pro. They’re uncoated. I’m cutting 6061 (not sure if it’s -T6). I’m very willing to buy different cutters if it’ll get better results. especially faster roughing. I’m also willing to change alloy.

Stop and check your work with a square and straight edge. Pay attention to grain direction to avoid tearout as much as possible.

I can’t imagine anyone understanding my explanation without a couple pictures or a diagram, but at the time I couldn’t figure out a way that I felt was safe or accurate given my 3d modeling and woodworking skills and tools. Which I’m sure doesn’t say much for the WW skills :)

Used in everything from Shaker Style to Mid-Century Modern, tapers trim up the profile of your furniture — making it more elegant, refined, and just plain good-lookin’.

Make your first pass lightly, then follow up with successively more pressure. If you push too hard on the first pass, the wood grain can pull the knife blade out of line.

For the rest of your legs, use the first leg as your template. Make sure the back edges are correctly aligned, and everything should come out identically.

Feeds and speeds has a solid basis in physics and mathematics. The feed rate and RPM must be coupled properly for the available spindle torque to obtain a clean and optimal result. Too slow a feed and the end mill may not be cutting anything… until a step occurs… and you get a racket.

It’ll then work as your reference for the others. The less measuring you have to do, the more accurate and consistent your woodworking will be.

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There’s not a lot of threads about feedrates and cutter speeds yet, but it sounds like the 8-16ips @5000-10000rpm 0.01DOC in aluminum seems to be at least working for people.

Double-stick tape a straight edge onto your workpiece. Make sure its edge is perfectly aligned to your marking knife line.

A tapering sled can be as simple or complex as you like. The critical parts are a zero clearance edge and a fence to support the workpiece at the correct angle.

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Will it be a good idea to have a thread for feedrates? I think it will help a lot for people who are new to CNC. I have made mistakes and broke cutters (1/32’') when I went too fast and it seems I am going too slow now.

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I did try 12(@10krpm), 16, and 24 IPM. For me 12 IPM was the worst. It was VERY noisy/chattery. 16 sounded pretty good and 24 was a bit loud but not too bad. They all had comparable surface finishes.

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EDIT: Oh, also do you have any recommend settings for a finishing pass? Specifically for getting the best top surface quality?

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