While we don’t recommend using the 4-flute mills for aluminum, the cost of the entire set would be great even if you only got the ten 2-flutes (see full specs) and you’re sure to be happy with this set. Think of it as adding a bit of steel capability for when you need it and you’ll see why we’re so pleased to present this kit. These are among the best endmills for an aluminum period.

The beginner doesn’t always need a whole range of differing mills and frankly the costs start to get pretty high when you’re looking at sets. If you’re still in a position where you’re working with the absolute basics then something like this six-piece set makes sense.

Aluminum is a soft material, which tends to heat quickly and have large chips separate while the end mill is in motion. This means that you want to lower the number and cut a bit slower to ensure a smooth and accurate cut and avoid “tearing” which will leave you with a rough cut.

There’s also the matter of coating, which is particularly important for high-speed steel tools. Many of the new commercial coatings can reduce friction by a ton, keeping the bit cooler while it runs and decreasing the friction which can cause clogs in a soft material like aluminum.

Fluting affects how quickly a bit cuts while you’re running it in your machines. The more flutes, the quicker the cut, which makes it tempting for some people to try and go with the highest number possible.

While they might seem a little bit expensive at first glance, this is actually a great set of end mills for beginners. Ball nose pieces are quite easy to work with and we strongly recommend working with a 2-flute mill when it comes time to dig into some aluminum.

I hope our article will give you a fundamental base from which you can achieve the latest knowledge and information about sheet metal fabrication field.

Among those respondents who said their buying criteria was to find the endmills with the best performance regardless of cost, the top brands were:

High-speed steel is the “inferior” of the two materials but a good quality end mill will still last for a long time in a hobbyist’s shop. This steel is designed to withstand the high RPMs of your machines, after all.

Machining relies on slowly taking chips off of the material, although you can end up with a pretty smooth cut at the end of the day. Aluminum breaks differently than steel and has a tendency to clog up when used with the same bits as you’d use to machine steel. This is mostly due to the softness of the material.

Head Types & Size: There are 3 basic head types: oval, tapered, and tip cutters. There are also many subtypes, such as relieved and angulated. Choose the strongest head that still allows access to the material to be cut.

Please note that different manufacturers may use their own trade names for these different cut types, whereas I’m just using the generic names here. When comparing the cutting capacities of cut types, the Semi-Flush cut gives you the highest cutting capacity. The Flush cut will provide a lower cutting capacity than the Semi-Flush cut and the Full-Flush provides the lowest of the three. Another thing to consider is that a Semi-Flush cutter will hold its edge (sharpness) longer than a Flush cutter and a Flush cutter will hold its edge longer than a Full-Flush cutter. The head style is not limited to any one type of cut. For example, an oval head cutter can come in any of the three types of cut, but for maximum cutting capacity, an oval head with a semi-flush cut will give you the highest cutting capacity.The Strongest Cutter:The Strongest Cutter is going to be a Semi-Flush, XL, Oval Head (non-relieved) cutter. The main feature that makes one cutter stronger than the other, is the quantity of the metal backing up the cutting edge.

If you’re looking to find the right end mill for aluminum, you’re in the right place. We have found four that should cover the needs of pretty much anyone.

Coming with 10 2-flute end mills in a single box and fantastic titanium based coating to keep the friction coefficient to a minimum, this is a fantastic set for nearly anyone. There’s also a wide range of different shanks for the individual pieces, meaning that each is sized properly for the width of the bit you’ll be using.

This set has six pieces which range from 1/8” to ½” (see full specs) and should be able to meet most people’s needs. Of course, these are high-speed steel which is a great material but for those looking to use their endmills on a daily basis, these might not make the cut. The hobbyist will find these to be perfect, however, and the wide range of sizes and lower price makes them a great way to learn.

An end mill is a type of milling cutter, a cutting tool used in industrial milling applications. It is distinguished from the drill bit in its application, geometry, and manufacture. While a drill bit can only cut in the axial direction, a milling bit can generally cut in all directions, though some cannot cut axially.

When selecting a cutter, you must determine the gauge and type of material you’ll be cutting. Except for hard-wire cutters, cutting capacity ratings are based on soft copper wire. Published cutting capacities are normally for the throat of the cutter, not the tips. The tips most often have a cutting capacity of 4 AWG or less (bigger number/smaller size) than the published cutting capacity. If you’re using precision cutters and are having to squeeze hard to cut your material, you’re probably cutting beyond the cutter’s capacity.If you’re going to be cutting 18 AWG soft copper wire all day, every day, I wouldn’t settle for a cutter that is rated up to 18 AWG. Instead, select a cutter that’s rated up to 16 AWG because it will hold its edge longer.If you need to cut hard, semi-hard, or memory wire, you’ll need a specialty cutter like Xuron’s 2193, Knipex 74-12-160 or Lindstrom’s TRX-8180. The 2193 will cut steel wire up to 12 gauge, and memory wire up to 18 gauge. Trying to cut these materials with a pair of precision cutters will surely damage them. For even heavier gauge material, I would look at the Knipex 71-12-200 Mini Bolt Cutters. Handles: When selecting a pair of cutters, your first decision will be which handle fits your hand. Many manufacturers offer multiple handle options. Find the handle that fits your hands best. With precision cutters, it should be easy to cut through your material. If you are needing extra strength or longer handles to get more leverage, you are using the wrong cutter.

This means that the ideal aluminum bit is going to come with two or three flutes. Once you get any past that you’re running the risk of messing with your cuts, which isn’t good for anyone.

Machining is a delicate art, which means that you’re going to need the proper tools for the job. For a hobbyist or professional, making items out of aluminum requires a specialized set of end mills.

Carbide, on the other hand, will stay sharp practically forever and is ideal for professionals. Of course, a single carbide piece might cost as much as an entire set of high-speed steel bits.

No matter what brand of cutters you are looking at, unless you are only doing one task with the same material forever, there is no single cutter for all your needs. Trying to save money by using the wrong cutter can damage your material and shorten the cutter’s life, costing you more in the long run.

With our extensive experience in selling and supporting precision cutters, we have learned that most often, when there is a problem, all brands have the same problem. This common issue is what is known as “Over Ranged”. It is not the fault of the cutter or of the manufacturer, but of the user trying to cut material the cutter was not designed to cut. This may be the gauge (thickness) of the material or of the “Type” of material (ie.. Copper, Brass, Stainless). Most often, it is an issue the user of the user trying to cut a “Type” material that is harder than what the cutters were rated for. The capacity rating provided (other than specific “Hard Wire” cutters) is most always for “soft solid copper wire”. Most all other material used in the Jewelry Trade is harder than copper. I am not saying you cannot cut this harder material; I am saying you should use an appropriate cutter to do so.The second most common issue is cutting the material at the very tip of the cutters, which happens to be the weakest part of the cutter. The capacity rating published is for the throat and not the tip. When a tool is damaged, we find that most often it was caused by the material being cut, which was not copper but of a harder material. In the Jewelry Trade, there is a need to get into tight small areas to trim up pieces and you want to use an extra small tapered head cutter to do so. Be Careful! Make sure you know what the material is. Maybe pull the wire out so that you can use a larger appropriate cutter, then push/tuck it back in. Most manufacturers have a “Guarantee” that covers defects in material, manufacturing and workmanship. “Over Ranging” is not covered by a manufacturer’s guarantee, as it is considered misapplication/abuse. Here are the essential points to consider when buying a new pair of cutters:

When it comes time for your next machining project, we want to make sure that you have the best endmill for aluminum possible. All of our choices are respectable, of course, but there’s a whole world of bits out there to explore once you get into the hobby. Have fun and be safe, but most importantly make sure that you have the right tool for the job. Good luck!

This particular set comes with six pieces, all of the end mills have shank diameters of 3/8”. This end mill has a center cutting type with a right-hand cutting direction. Give it a shot, especially if you only have a couple of specific tasks you need to get done.

Below are our recommendations for the top 3 best end mills for aluminum fabrication on the market as reviewed by Australian General Engineering Vietnam which is one the precision sheet metal fabricators in Vietnam.