Can thread forming taps be used to repair existing threads? Including threads in material that was powder coat painted after the original hole was taped.

These 8 unique facts about thread forming taps are very beneficial for us. Like cutting oils allow for reduced friction, how a simple formula can help you find the right drill size and the threads produced are stronger than conventional tapping threads.

1) the tap is programmed to go back into the same hole twice – leading to different start angles 2) (less likely) the tap is spinning within the collet during the tapping operation

Hi There, Excellent Blog, Thanks a lot for sharing about Thread Forming Taps. I have been looking for so long for this type of information. Keep Sharing….

milling machine, device that rotates a circular tool that has a number of cutting edges symmetrically arranged about its axis; the workpiece is commonly held in a vise or similar device clamped to a table that can move in three perpendicular directions. Disk- or barrel-shaped cutters are clamped through holes in their centres to arbors (shafts) attached to the machine spindle; they have teeth on their peripheries only or on both peripheries and faces. An end mill is a cutter shaped like a pencil with a tapered shank that fits into the machine spindle; it has cutting teeth on its face and spiral blades on the lateral surface.

Form tap vs cut tap

I’ve been programming for almost ten years, been using roll form taps for about 6 years and never once have seen a “double helix” from the minor diameter being oversize. Usually, a oversize minor dia. prior to tapping – will result in the pitch diameter and minor diameter being oversize after tapping (leading to the acceptance of a no-go thread gauge).

Thread forming tap

Materials of Drill Bits · The highest quality drill material is high-speed steel. It is relatively inexpensive and can be used in drill presses and hand drills.

I learned quite a lot about thread-forming taps by reading this post. Thanks for publishing the post about unique facts of thread-forming taps. I will share the article with my colleagues.

Yes Titan USA stocks STI Forming Taps as standards. Here is the link to the general purpose taps https://www.titancuttingtools.com/products/tapping/general-purpose-taps

Thread forming taps have no cutting and edge and do not produce chips. You should be able to chase an existing thread with this tool, although thread forming taps are not designed to remove burrs.

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Not all materials are well suited for Thread Forming Taps. In fact, attempting to use a tap in the wrong material can result in significant part and tool damage. The best materials for this unique type of operation include aluminum, brass, copper, 300 stainless steel, and leaded steel. In other words, any material that leaves a stringy chip is a good candidate for cold forming threads. Materials that leave a powdery chip, such as cast iron, are likely too brittle, resulting in ineffective, porous threads.

Are thread forming taps ok to use to chase threads in cast iron and aluminum? I am looking for something a bit better than thread chasers as far as quality.

Unlike most CNC cutting tools, Thread Forming Taps, otherwise known as Form Taps, Forming Taps, or Roll Taps, work by molding the workpiece rather than cutting it. Because of this, Form Taps do not contain any flutes, as there is no cutting action taking place, nor are there any chips to evacuate. Below are 8 unique facts of Thread Forming Taps (and some may surprise you).

Great question! The percentage of thread refers to the percentage of height where basic thread height and external and internal threads are engaged. The percentage of thread is calculated by finding your total engaged length (EL) and your total overall length (OL). You then divide EL by OL and multiply by 100 to get your percentage, so your equation looks like this, Percentage of Thread = EL/OL*100. Some jobs require a certain thread percentage but if nothing is specified we suggest using between a 60%-75% thread percentage to help your tool last longer.

Cut tap vs roll tap

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Thread forming produces much stronger threads than conventional tapping methods, due to the displacements of the grain of the metal in the workpiece. Further, cutting taps produce chips, which may interfere with the tapping process.

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Drill Size = Major Diameter – [(0.0068 x desired % of thread) / Threads Per Inch]Drill Size (mm) = Major Diameter – [(0.0068 x desired % of thread x pitch (mm)]

Forming Tap

With the tap drill formulas referenced (see below) … What “Class of fit” (Inch “H” value) (Metric “D” value) is this formula written for? If you have a low H or D the hole should be smaller. If you have a High H or D the hole should be larger.

When selecting a Tap, you must be familiar with the following formula, which will help a machinist determine the proper drill size needed for creating the starter hole, before a Thread Forming Tap is used to finish the application:

I have worked with formed threads on some of our assemblies and I’m not a fan. If the drilled hole is slightly too large, it seem that a double helix can form.

Your article states: a ¼-20 roll tap requires a #1 drill size for 65% thread. What is a 65% thread ? Is a greater percent of thread possible or important ?

Drill Size = Major Diameter – [(0.0068 x desired % of thread) / Threads Per Inch] Drill Size (mm) = Major Diameter – [(0.0068 x desired % of thread x pitch (mm)]

Another interesting tidbit: A form tap may slightly raise (a couple thousandths of an inch) the area surrounding the top and bottom surfaces of the hole. A larger chamfer will help eliminate this raised area resulting a flatter, more even surface after form tapping. Or you can just stone or grind the surface after tapping if a larger chamfer is unacceptable.

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Looking to tap into fiberglass besides keeping tap cool and not use coolant. My plan is to use cooling air to keep tap cool. My question is being it’s a blind hole would it be best to form tap??? Tapped hole size being. 1 1/8-12 UNC-2B depth of thread is 1.250 deep.

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As an example, a ¼-20 cut tap requires a #7 drill size for the starter hole, whereas a ¼-20 roll tap requires a #1 drill size for 65% thread.

In conventional tapping applications, as with most machining applications, chip evacuation is a concern. This is especially true in blind holes, or holes with a bottom, as chips created at the very bottom of the hole oftentimes have a long distance to travel before being efficiently evacuated. With form taps, however, chip removal is never a concern.

When using a Form Tap, chips are not formed, nor is any part material evacuated (Yes, you read that right). With thread forming, the tool is void of any flutes, as chip evacuation is not a concern. Form Taps quite literally mold the workpiece, rather than cut it, to produce threads. Material is displaced within a hole to make way for the threads being formed.

In the milling operation the workpiece is carried on a table that is driven either manually or by power against the rotating cutter. Milling machines usually produce flat surfaces, but any shape that can be ground on the cutter will be reproduced on the work. To mill the teeth of a spur gear, a disk-type cutter with its cutting edges in the shape of the space (groove) between the teeth of the gear is used, milling the gear blank one space at a time.

Did you know that Thread Forming Taps require good lubrication? But why is that the case if chips are not being evacuated, and how does lubrication enter the part with such a limited area between the tool and the perimeter of the hole being threaded? Despite the fact that chips aren’t being formed or evacuated, cutting oils aid the Form Tap as it interacts with the part material, and reduces friction and heat generation. Lube vent grooves are narrow channels engineered into the side of Forming Taps that are designed to provide just enough room for lubricant to make its way into – and out of – a part.

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Roll tap drill size chart

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A “double helix” condition could only be possible if the threads had multiple start angles. I’m not entirely positive why you would be noticing a “double helix” forming within your threads but my theories are

Thanks for the reply. My experience with roll tapped holes is on the user end only. I have never used a roll tap to thread a hole. The problem I was referring to was an improperly formed crest on the rolled thread. The displaced metal didn’t fully form into the crest but left, what looked like with an eye loupe, a second, smaller helical pattern on the incompletely formed crest. In the instance I’m primarily referring to, it even caused difficulty starting the screw. My guess as to why this happened is an oversized hole to start with leaving not enough metal to displace into the crest. Does this seem consistent with your experience in actually using roll taps to thread holes?

Cut tap drill size

This would not be possible. Since you are reshaping the material and the material is now powdered coated, you will not have the required material to be able to form your new thread, and instead form your thread on the paint itself.

Thread Forming Taps are incredibly efficient, as their tool life is substantial (Up to 20x longer than cutting taps), as they have no cutting edges to dull. Further, Thread Forms can be run at faster speeds (Up to 2x faster than Cutting Taps).

Hello Eric. Yes that can happen, but it’s not really a problem of the forming taps. You could say forming taps require a tighter tolerance hole in that regard, but the hole should not be that much oversized anyway, even when using regular taps.

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Great question! The formula is for a standard tap, 1/4 – 20 H6 being the standard. For each H-limit above or below you would add or subtract .0005. For H7 it is +.0005, for H5 it is -.0005.

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Eric, You have found what I believe is the greatest downside to thread form tapping. If all you ever do is run the machine that taps the hole it likely goes unnoticed but if you are involved in doing the assembly work that employs a formed thread where the tap drill / hole was slightly large you get what looks like a double helix. This apparent dbl. helix is the result of the thread crest being incomplete as there was insufficient material to upset and you actually end up with a slight trough or valley where the crest should be. The finer the thread the better roll taps work but if there is not enough material to complete the thread, they are a TERROR to assemble even for experienced operators.

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In contrast, face milling does not cut through considerably into the workpiece except for flattening the surface. Advantages of Face Milling vs. End Milling.