Next, let's look at an example showing the work and calculations that are involved in converting from inches per minute to meters per minute (in/m to m/m).

What was happening was boring rough was recognizing the drill point angle and wanted to clean it up even though the tool cannot handle a bore that small without crashing. I was playing around with stock definitions and other such things to tell the tool where to start. I ended up having to rough the bore with 1 finish pass telling it how many passes to take and then take a second finish pass with the bottom taken into effect so I can do a clean up pass.

Also, why can I not get threading inserts to match up with "grooving bars" I found a E08-NER2 under the grooving tool library but that means i cannot select a NTP2L insert so I can thread with it?

Inches per minute is a unit of Speed or Velocity in both US Customary Units as well as the Imperial System. It measures the number of inches traveled in a minute. The symbol for inches per minute is in/m. There are 39.3700787402 in/m in m/m.

for a quick fix you could try creating a finish toolpath along the straight bore, and just tell it how many passes at a specified depth you want it to do.

I am with Brendan, we only really use a package of a couple dozen tools, the rest are custom anyway... Even modifying tools from the library gives me headaches.

Online calculator to convert inches per minute to meters per minute (in/m to m/m) with formulas, examples, and tables. Our conversions provide a quick and easy way to convert between Speed or Velocity units.

On the threading make your own tool export grooving tool to a level and the threading tool to a level and make your own tool.

I ended up taking Brendan's suggestion and chaining the main bore and the back wall and then shortening the contour by .250. It seems to work pretty well now. I just have to learn all the workarounds I guess.

The MC Lathe is not that hard, but I think most people are "Mill People" and just don't know what is going on. When I started programming the lathe, I was a mill guy that got thrown in because our lathe guy quit. I had to go to my reseller and get a crash course on the lathe and then start trying to program with it. Our "Lathe Guy" didn't use MC, and instead used some antiquated software from he 80's that we had to have a special super old computer to run. After I got a decent post and a little trial and error, I was programming some pretty cool lathe parts. Its pretty easy to use, but you can't program it like the mill.

Do Brendans second suggestion, go to lead out page, click to enable "Adjust geometry" and then shorten up the geometry by 1/4" (assuming you have the bottom of the bore drawn to X0, remember MC works radially on lathe dia's so 1/4" radially is 1/2" dia). I prg. equal amounts of milling and turning so lead in/out options have become my friends .

The following tables provide a summary of the Speed or Velocity units (Per Hour, Per Minute, Per Second and Per Millisecond) within their respective measurement systems.

We've recently had a discussion about how to improve boring in Lathe. It was suggested that we think about creating a specific "Boring" toolpath that would have more intelligence. Thanks for the feedback, I'll run the suggestions up the chain...

for a quick fix you could try creating a finish toolpath along the straight bore, and just tell it how many passes at a specified depth you want it to do.

I dont use the tooling libraries that are built into mastercam lathe. We dont do a great deal of lathe work and we will generally use a range of say 20 tools to machine MOST jobs. This being the case I just went through and made my own tools / library and have never had a problem with tool definitions. For a lot of the tools i just use the standard holders as a base and just modify them without the need to redraw entirely. It doesnt take too long to set up, and once it is, life is alot easier!

I am trying to bore 1.125" strait bore to a flat bottom. I have drilled with a .500 drill and now trying to send an E06STLPR2 boring bar with a TPGM21505 insert into the hole and bring it up to size. What am I doing wrong. What chain do I have to select (The strait chain, the strait chain and the bottom?) . How do I tell the tool the minimum size I want it to start boring at. DO I have stock recognition on?

Meters per minute is a unit of Speed or Velocity in the Metric System. It measures the number of meters traveled in a minute. The symbol for meters per minute is m/m and the International spelling for this unit is metres per minute. There are 0.0254 m/m in in/m.

On another note, why not just drill the hole bigger? We use Ingersolls Quad Drills and they leave a fairly flat bottom, but even a bigger HSS drill (assuming that's what you're using) would make things easier.

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I also really don't quite get why you can only use look up tool and inserts that are used for a specific operation. That just seems soo counter intuitive to me. They need to make the holders for Top-notch inserts available for both grooving and threading. :wallbash:

I draw at least 70% of my tooling and, for the cuts, I draw geo & chain it. Never use lead in/out, always use lathe finish.

How to convert in/m to m/m: Enter a value in the in/m field and click on the "Calculate m/m" button. Your answer will appear in the m/m field.

Alternatively you can seelect the whole contour of the bore and shorten the exit line in your lead in/out paramaters to stop it from cutting too close to the centerline.

Alternatively you can seelect the whole contour of the bore and shorten the exit line in your lead in/out paramaters to stop it from cutting too close to the centerline.

One thing I would do when using Lathe, I would change my drill point angle to 175 degree's and it wouldn't make the boring bar want to start at the minimum bore dia. I haven't ran lathe for years but I have to say, I got pretty good with it and could make it do almost anything I needed. It took alot of trial and error but I finally figured out the best way to get good code and I would pretty much just post and go. I ran V9 lathe so it's been years to say the least.

Let's take a closer look at the conversion formula so that you can do these conversions yourself with a calculator or with an old-fashioned pencil and paper.

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Draw the ID and back of the hole. Break the line at the back of the hole at the drill size. Chain the ID and back of the hole down to the drill size for roughing. Use the stock for the stock. Make sure you leave some stock in X & Z for cleanup. Chain the finish pass to the center.

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