Jan 3, 2019 — ... price range. sansbury 08:49 PM 03-01-2019. The Datron Neo is as close as anything out there to what you're asking for--they even call it "the ...

Cutting it with a band saw is the way to go, tried with grinder and thin cut off discs, eats up the discs in seconds, overheats and gets harder.

"Use of relatively high speeds of travel. Temperature is less influenced by speed of travel than by cutting speed. Travel speeds should therefore be as high as compatible with efficient working."

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I have limited experience of machining titanium and can not remember which grade i have used. However I do have a friend that spent his working life at IMI titanium division (Now Timet) His advise to me was always "Think Stainless" so all the above comments re dull tools etc hold good.

Interesting stuff Titanium, no experience myself but this web page gives a good summary of what makes Titanium awkward and what to do about it, see answers above!

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Titanium is a very poor conductor of heat. Which is why it will work harden very quickly. Some say treat it like stainless steel, and to a point that is true. Sharp tools with relatively high feed rates. But you have to keep the cutting edge tool. So they use through coolant drills etc. The only way to keep the heat low Ti is sharp tools and going slow rpm. The carbide tools as long as they are sharp will last about 5 times that of a hss drill before it needs resharpening. Some coated drills like the gold coated , can pick up with the Ti. There is a coating for Ti and it is a browny black colour. The other coating is a silvery colour as it is a diamond like coating. Uncoated carbide works well too , if it is the shiny one for Al. As you drill it, it will feel a little tough but easy if that can make sence. Then when it starts to work hardend, it will feel hard to push the drill, and it will squeel a little too. That means that the drill is dulling off or the speed is too high or not enough coolant or feeding too slow. With a 5mm drill you want to feed from 2 thou per rev to 4 tho per rev. On at 400 rpm you will be drilling at a feedrate of 1-1-/2 inches per min (40mm per min) to 3/4 inches per min(20mm per min) So your 8mm hole will be drilled in 12 seconds to 24 seconds as a guide example.

IMO turning doesn't present much of a problem, drilling and tapping on the other hand can be difficult. It is sometimes easier to bore holes in titanium than drill in my experience. With tapping you might find the tap has a tendency to get stuck often, again if you can "single point" screw cut that can be an advantage.

I don't intend to invest in a class D extinguisher, but might run to a tub of finely-powdered salt which might be better than sand in the event of an emergency. Apparently that's what's in the extinguishers – the salt melts and make a crust over the blazing inferno. And presumably sucks out some energy in the latent heat of fusion.

It seems that I shall have to don my bio-hazard gear and crawl under the lathe to inspect the suds sump. I rarely use flood coolant (messy) but it sounds like I should for this task.

Drilling, IME especially with small diameters, can quickly produce temperatures high enough to let down the drill and, if the swarf jams in the 'ole, twist off the end of the drill bit. If that happens it can obviously present a difficult problem in saving the workpiece unless you're very comprehensively equipped. I once did that when trying (foolishly) to drill 1,8mm through a 50 mm long workpiece, and could only save it by finding a way to substitute a M3 x 10 dp tapped hole. Carbide drills might be an answer if you're prepared to splash the cash.

As for fire hazard, I have never seen a titanium fire in 20years. Just control the ammount of thin swarf and keep the workarea clear and you'll be safe.

My casual approach to drilling mild-steel would certainly cause trouble if applied to Titanium. Mild-steel tolerates blunt drills and wobbly set-ups, cuts over a wide range of speeds and feeds, and isn't fussy about coolant. Titanium reminds me of Stainless, another special needs metal: I'm much more careful machining it, and avoid the rapid work hardening alloys if at all possible. Nonetheless stainless can be machined – it just has to be cut appropriately.

What did you do Today 2024 A blast from the past What is (Traditional) Model Engineering? Traction Engine Identification Help Please…. FreeCAD version 1.0 released Subscription via pocketmags Creworks Lathes on Amazon UK – some big price drops for Black Friday Week Choosing a suitable fine point capacitive phone stylus Co-ordinate positioning for circle of holes (not all equally spaced) Bronze

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Save big on the Mars 61755 Definite Purpose Contactor, 2P 40A 24V QC & BL TERM while it's still available here at PlumbersStock.com. This Definite Purpose Contactor is manufactured with integrity. Mars products will last you a long time, but parts will wear, and you can find replacements here when they do. As the manufacturer describes it, Designed for use on refrigeration, air conditioning and electric heating systems. Engineered for today's most demanding commercial refrigeration and HVAC applications. Enclosed body provides a quieter running contactor and a longer life expectancy. Oversized ‘Arch Window’ to simplify wiring. High Performance Copper & Brass Conductors maximize current carrying capability creating a cooler running contactor. Multi-purpose Coil Terminals allow the use of QC terminals or stripped wires. Removable Coils allow field replacement of damaged coils. Removable Cover provides full access to the contacts. Thermoplastic Housing resists dusting and contamination of the contacts to maintain maximum conductivity

by EN Eremin · 2016 · Cited by 8 — The measured microhardness of the plate drill bit is 1400 HV (Vickers) and that of coating 12Cr18Ni10T+Ti is 2200 HV that is significantly higher. The measured ...

I initially read that as the statement of a general principle, which I couldn't understand. On reflection I think it's to do with the low thermal conductivity of titanium. Presumably the high rate of travel just distributes the heat over the work more rapidly than thermal diffusion, and therefore results in lower local temperatures. Is that right?

The need to replace cutters quickly jumps out at me relative to Robin's question: 'Can I get away with HSS drills?' The answer is yes, but start with sharp ones and expect to consume several. Unlikely to 'get away' with blunt drills.

A steel alloy having approximately 0.80% carbon will contain only pearlite in the microstructure. Lower carbon levels create an alloy that combines ferrite ...

Is there an insert design that is very durable without being too expensive? Dulling isn't really an issue, it's more about chipping.

As for turning, the sharper the tip the better, I have machined Ti with TNMG inserts tho, which don't have the sharpest geometry with good results.

HSS turning tools and drills can do Ti but must be sharp, use a brand new drill if you can and keep the suds on it , if it loses it's edge up the hole it will melt the end if the drill , for turning i use brazed carbide tools for touching and HSS for finishing, tapping is difficult , it's not the material the taps are made of but the angles need to be right or it takes ages, when you know the ins and outs it's actually pretty good stuff to machine, ive made tons of components at work and in my workshop shame ive used all my stock up as its expensive to buy.

Titanium fire hazards should be low in a small workshop: the real danger is when a large pile of swarf catches fire and pouring water on it converts an exceptionally hot local fire into an explosion scattering flaming metal over a large area. A ton of burning Titanium is a big problem! I suppose Titanium could catch fire in a home workshop if the operator did absolutely everything wrong: made a big pile of dry swarf under the job, allowed the cut to work-harden, and then insisted on forcing a blunt drill into the job whilst ignoring all the danger signs! Most fire extinguishers are unsuitable for reactive metal fires, so don't use them on burning Titanium or Magnesium without reading the small print first. Doesn't seem likely Titanium soaked in water coolant would catch fire, but a bucket of sand in the workshop would be sensible, just in case.

The thing to remember is that it work hardens very quickly if you don't keep the cutting temps down. Incidentally it heats up very fast and seems to hold heat. Therefore sharp tooling, slow speeds and coolant are a must. Expect to ruin plenty of tooling if it is too hot!

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Drilling can be done with hss bits, but be careful…do not creep to the final size using small increments. Drill a pilot hole to clear the next drill's point and then go to final size using coolant. I find that if I use small incremental steps to drill, the drill tip edges will overheat and go blunt immediately. Use a new sharp drill !

Explore and download recommended speed & feed rates for Fullerton's carbide end mills, drills, routers, reamers, and saws.

This is not the first thread on this forum with the title above I know – I found a discussion dating from 2011 (it ran for four years in fits and starts!) but it doesn't give me the info I want. I think the OP in that thread wasn't specific enough in his question, so I'll try to focus:

Thanks for replies – I think my questions have been answered. Neil Lickfold's detailed report on speeds, feed &c is especially useful.

Jun 11, 2010 — You will need to use an air chisel to remove some of the concrete around the nail head. Grasp the chisel tightly and only work around the nail head.

The Speed and Feed chart is meant to act as a general guide, your results can and often will vary greatly from job to job. Machining is complicated, only ...

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I think the issue with low thermal conductance is compounded by its mechanical toughness – the chip is difficult to separate from the parent material and doing so requires energy expenditure, manifesting itself as heat generated in both.

Mick – I had thought about carbide drills but was put off by the cost. Nearly £50 for a 5mm drill from RS! But Ive found that Zoro list a 5mm Dormer carbide stub drill, which will do me fine, for £5.99. I don't need to drill deeper than 8mm  so I'll probably go that way.

Briefly, Titanium has low heat conductivity and elasticity, high reactivity and it work hardens in a blink. The answer is low rpm and high feed-rate, sharp tools, plenty of coolant at the cutting edge, never stop with the cutter in contact, maximised tool, machine and work rigidity and replace tools as soon as they wear.

Doesn't seem likely Titanium soaked in water coolant would catch fire, but a bucket of sand in the workshop would be sensible, just in case.

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Hi Robin, I use a low speed in the bandsaw for cutting G5 Ti, I use around 40ft/min to saw off. I don't use an older blade that has dulled. Use a new or new or new blade. You want low chlorine water and coolant. It only catches fire if it gets really hot and often there will be sparks or something like that. Never seen it catch fire with plenty of water based soluble oil coolants. I use the concentration of 8% to 12%. Where possible I use deionised distilled water for mixing my soluble coolants in a bottle. I drill with new centre point style drills. An 8mm drill I use 300 rpm or so. I use as a drilling speed of 8m/min surface speed and just use the squirt bottle for the coolant. Ti will work harden if you take too fine a drill feedrate, and if the drill dulls. I use about 1.5mm to 2mm pecks. For outer turning I use the coated CCGT inserts , with a coating for Ti,/ Nickel/ tough to turn materials. Ti like cutting with the positive very sharp inserts. I use R0.4 for roughing, and the R0.2 for finishing. As for turning speed I use 15 to 16 m/min surface speed or no faster than 720 rpm that my lathe is speed limited to. So for the 20mm bar , can take 0.5mm cuts/ 1mm diameter at 19mm I would run around 250 rpm, and feed at around 0.2mm / rev or so if you have the power and coolant from the squirt bottle or from the coolant tap.

With this handy tool, you can cut a perfect 45 degree angle with ease. Simply adjust the width to suit whatever it is your cutting (2~10mm thickness), and slide ...

As already mentioned, don't let the tools rub. We had a titanium fire in the toolmakers bandsaw when the apprentices were cutting tooling lugs off part machined aircraft parts. It caused a lot of smoke.

Sep 25, 2020 — I have a couple of Criterion and import boring heads that take .75" bars and some brazed tip bars that came with them as part of the machine ...

Home › Forums › Beginners questions › Machining titanium. This topic has 12 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 27 April 2021 at 01:40 by Neil Lickfold. Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total) Author Posts 25 April 2021 at 00:58 #541453 Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208 This is not the first thread on this forum with the title above I know – I found a discussion dating from 2011 (it ran for four years in fits and starts!) but it doesn't give me the info I want. I think the OP in that thread wasn't specific enough in his question, so I'll try to focus: I have a piece of 20mm diameter Grade 5 (Ti 6-4) round bar which I want to cut, turn, and drill. Q1. Can this stuff be cut with a 'normal' bandsaw? Mine has a 14tpi bimetal blade with M42 teeth. The blade speed given on the plate is 45/min, but it doesn't say if the 45 is in nanometres, parsecs or somewhere between. Q2. If I use carbide insert tools for the turning, should I go for CCMT or CCGT? Or would I be better off with HSS? Q3. I've looked about for advice on drilling the stuff and the recommendation is solid carbide. But that's from suppliers of industrial tooling. I need to drill three holes. Can I get away with HSS drills? Any advice would be welcome. Robin. Advert 25 April 2021 at 00:58 #10809 Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208 25 April 2021 at 02:03 #541454 Neil LickfoldParticipant @neillickfold44316 Hi Robin, I use a low speed in the bandsaw for cutting G5 Ti, I use around 40ft/min to saw off. I don't use an older blade that has dulled. Use a new or new or new blade. You want low chlorine water and coolant. It only catches fire if it gets really hot and often there will be sparks or something like that. Never seen it catch fire with plenty of water based soluble oil coolants. I use the concentration of 8% to 12%. Where possible I use deionised distilled water for mixing my soluble coolants in a bottle. I drill with new centre point style drills. An 8mm drill I use 300 rpm or so. I use as a drilling speed of 8m/min surface speed and just use the squirt bottle for the coolant. Ti will work harden if you take too fine a drill feedrate, and if the drill dulls. I use about 1.5mm to 2mm pecks. For outer turning I use the coated CCGT inserts , with a coating for Ti,/ Nickel/ tough to turn materials. Ti like cutting with the positive very sharp inserts. I use R0.4 for roughing, and the R0.2 for finishing. As for turning speed I use 15 to 16 m/min surface speed or no faster than 720 rpm that my lathe is speed limited to. So for the 20mm bar , can take 0.5mm cuts/ 1mm diameter at 19mm I would run around 250 rpm, and feed at around 0.2mm / rev or so if you have the power and coolant from the squirt bottle or from the coolant tap. Neil 25 April 2021 at 07:17 #541457 ChrisBParticipant @chrisb35596 At work we often use grade 5 titanium for aircraft parts. Mostly drilling and cutting operations and some turning. Drilling can be done with hss bits, but be careful…do not creep to the final size using small increments. Drill a pilot hole to clear the next drill's point and then go to final size using coolant. I find that if I use small incremental steps to drill, the drill tip edges will overheat and go blunt immediately. Use a new sharp drill ! As for turning, the sharper the tip the better, I have machined Ti with TNMG inserts tho, which don't have the sharpest geometry with good results. Cutting it with a band saw is the way to go, tried with grinder and thin cut off discs, eats up the discs in seconds, overheats and gets harder. As for fire hazard, I have never seen a titanium fire in 20years. Just control the ammount of thin swarf and keep the workarea clear and you'll be safe. 25 April 2021 at 08:38 #541461 KettrinboyParticipant @kettrinboy HSS turning tools and drills can do Ti but must be sharp, use a brand new drill if you can and keep the suds on it , if it loses it's edge up the hole it will melt the end if the drill , for turning i use brazed carbide tools for touching and HSS for finishing, tapping is difficult , it's not the material the taps are made of but the angles need to be right or it takes ages, when you know the ins and outs it's actually pretty good stuff to machine, ive made tons of components at work and in my workshop shame ive used all my stock up as its expensive to buy. 25 April 2021 at 09:10 #541466 HollowpointParticipant @hollowpoint I'm not an expert with titanium by any means but have done some work with it. The thing to remember is that it work hardens very quickly if you don't keep the cutting temps down. Incidentally it heats up very fast and seems to hold heat. Therefore sharp tooling, slow speeds and coolant are a must. Expect to ruin plenty of tooling if it is too hot! IMO turning doesn't present much of a problem, drilling and tapping on the other hand can be difficult. It is sometimes easier to bore holes in titanium than drill in my experience. With tapping you might find the tap has a tendency to get stuck often, again if you can "single point" screw cut that can be an advantage. 25 April 2021 at 10:17 #541479 SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer Interesting stuff Titanium, no experience myself but this web page gives a good summary of what makes Titanium awkward and what to do about it, see answers above! Briefly, Titanium has low heat conductivity and elasticity, high reactivity and it work hardens in a blink. The answer is low rpm and high feed-rate, sharp tools, plenty of coolant at the cutting edge, never stop with the cutter in contact, maximised tool, machine and work rigidity and replace tools as soon as they wear. The need to replace cutters quickly jumps out at me relative to Robin's question: 'Can I get away with HSS drills?' The answer is yes, but start with sharp ones and expect to consume several. Unlikely to 'get away' with blunt drills. My casual approach to drilling mild-steel would certainly cause trouble if applied to Titanium. Mild-steel tolerates blunt drills and wobbly set-ups, cuts over a wide range of speeds and feeds, and isn't fussy about coolant. Titanium reminds me of Stainless, another special needs metal: I'm much more careful machining it, and avoid the rapid work hardening alloys if at all possible. Nonetheless stainless can be machined – it just has to be cut appropriately. Titanium fire hazards should be low in a small workshop: the real danger is when a large pile of swarf catches fire and pouring water on it converts an exceptionally hot local fire into an explosion scattering flaming metal over a large area. A ton of burning Titanium is a big problem! I suppose Titanium could catch fire in a home workshop if the operator did absolutely everything wrong: made a big pile of dry swarf under the job, allowed the cut to work-harden, and then insisted on forcing a blunt drill into the job whilst ignoring all the danger signs! Most fire extinguishers are unsuitable for reactive metal fires, so don't use them on burning Titanium or Magnesium without reading the small print first. Doesn't seem likely Titanium soaked in water coolant would catch fire, but a bucket of sand in the workshop would be sensible, just in case. What fun. Please report what happens Robin. Although my money is on success, failures are educational too! Dave 25 April 2021 at 10:44 #541484 Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6 I have limited experience of machining titanium and can not remember which grade i have used. However I do have a friend that spent his working life at IMI titanium division (Now Timet) His advise to me was always "Think Stainless" so all the above comments re dull tools etc hold good. 25 April 2021 at 10:48 #541486 Anonymous Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 25/04/2021 10:17:28: Most fire extinguishers are unsuitable for reactive metal fires………….. A Class D extinguisher is what you need. Types that are water based just make things worse. Andrew 25 April 2021 at 15:53 #541532 old martParticipant @oldmart As already mentioned, don't let the tools rub. We had a titanium fire in the toolmakers bandsaw when the apprentices were cutting tooling lugs off part machined aircraft parts. It caused a lot of smoke. 26 April 2021 at 12:00 #541649 Mick B1Participant @mickb1 I've managed to machine – usually small items – out of titanium using sharp HSS tools. I think the issue with low thermal conductance is compounded by its mechanical toughness – the chip is difficult to separate from the parent material and doing so requires energy expenditure, manifesting itself as heat generated in both. Drilling, IME especially with small diameters, can quickly produce temperatures high enough to let down the drill and, if the swarf jams in the 'ole, twist off the end of the drill bit. If that happens it can obviously present a difficult problem in saving the workpiece unless you're very comprehensively equipped. I once did that when trying (foolishly) to drill 1,8mm through a 50 mm long workpiece, and could only save it by finding a way to substitute a M3 x 10 dp tapped hole. Carbide drills might be an answer if you're prepared to splash the cash. 27 April 2021 at 00:23 #541787 Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208 Thanks for replies – I think my questions have been answered. Neil Lickfold's detailed report on speeds, feed &c is especially useful. It seems that I shall have to don my bio-hazard gear and crawl under the lathe to inspect the suds sump. I rarely use flood coolant (messy) but it sounds like I should for this task.   Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 25/04/2021 10:17:28: … Doesn't seem likely Titanium soaked in water coolant would catch fire, but a bucket of sand in the workshop would be sensible, just in case. What fun. Please report what happens Robin. Although my money is on success, failures are educational too! Dave I don't intend to invest in a class D extinguisher, but might run to a tub of finely-powdered salt which might be better than sand in the event of an emergency. Apparently that's what's in the extinguishers – the salt melts and make a crust over the blazing inferno. And presumably sucks out some energy in the latent heat of fusion. Something in the article Dave linked to confused me at first: "Use of relatively high speeds of travel. Temperature is less influenced by speed of travel than by cutting speed. Travel speeds should therefore be as high as compatible with efficient working." I initially read that as the statement of a general principle, which I couldn't understand. On reflection I think it's to do with the low thermal conductivity of titanium. Presumably the high rate of travel just distributes the heat over the work more rapidly than thermal diffusion, and therefore results in lower local temperatures. Is that right? Mick – I had thought about carbide drills but was put off by the cost. Nearly £50 for a 5mm drill from RS! But Ive found that Zoro list a 5mm Dormer carbide stub drill, which will do me fine, for £5.99. I don't need to drill deeper than 8mm  so I'll probably go that way. Robin. Edited By Robin Graham on 27/04/2021 00:25:39 Edited By Robin Graham on 27/04/2021 00:26:11 27 April 2021 at 01:40 #541793 Neil LickfoldParticipant @neillickfold44316 Titanium is a very poor conductor of heat. Which is why it will work harden very quickly. Some say treat it like stainless steel, and to a point that is true. Sharp tools with relatively high feed rates. But you have to keep the cutting edge tool. So they use through coolant drills etc. The only way to keep the heat low Ti is sharp tools and going slow rpm. The carbide tools as long as they are sharp will last about 5 times that of a hss drill before it needs resharpening. Some coated drills like the gold coated , can pick up with the Ti. There is a coating for Ti and it is a browny black colour. The other coating is a silvery colour as it is a diamond like coating. Uncoated carbide works well too , if it is the shiny one for Al. As you drill it, it will feel a little tough but easy if that can make sence. Then when it starts to work hardend, it will feel hard to push the drill, and it will squeel a little too. That means that the drill is dulling off or the speed is too high or not enough coolant or feeding too slow. With a 5mm drill you want to feed from 2 thou per rev to 4 tho per rev. On at 400 rpm you will be drilling at a feedrate of 1-1-/2 inches per min (40mm per min) to 3/4 inches per min(20mm per min) So your 8mm hole will be drilled in 12 seconds to 24 seconds as a guide example. Neil Author Posts Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total) Please log in to reply to this topic. Registering is free and easy using the links on the menu at the top of this page.