Yesterday I posted about General Turning Insert Nomenclature . I have used multiple turning insert in the cnc workshop. With the passage of time in the cnc workshop the turning insert…

But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year.

Krzysiek Brzeziński, from Poland, sent me his new product, a sort of square drill. Not for drilling square holes, but a square drill for round holes. The idea of this drill is that with it's simple and sturdy rectangular housing, it can be slid along a guide for repeatably drilling holes in precise locations. The drill isn't regularly available in North America at this point, but the drill he sent me is a 110 volt version, but it came with a European 240 volt plug. I didn't want to cut the power cord off it just yet, so for the time being I taped a 120 volt power cord to the prongs of the European 240 volt plug. The housing shows how many millimeters the drill's axis is from each face of the drill. I put a precision ground shaft in the chuck and spun it up. The shaft spun with very little wobble compared to a hand drill. For my first test, I figured I'd try something that would be impossible with a hand drill. Drilling a partial hole with a Forstner bit into and angled piece of wood, with the center of the drill bit out of the wood. The dill started out well enough, but I wasn't able to hold the drill down firmly enough and it jumped on me a few times. But with a smaller, 19 mm Forstner bit, I was able to drill a clean partial hole in the wood. This sort of drilling would be challenging even with a drill press, though it was something I could do with my old horizontal boring machine. My next test was to drill a series of overlapping 19 mm holes in a piece of wood. I used different spacers to guide the drill for the different positions, then moved it freehand to open the hole up into a slot. So this drill can be used as a sort of hand-held slot mortiser. Krzysiek also sent along some cabinet hardware, including two European style hinges. Using different spacers for the large hole and the two screw holes, I was able to position the holes precisely without marking them. That said, it was a few steps to do this, and I think a simple jig to drill through would do the job more conveniently. There is also a head with two spindles that can be screwed onto the front of the drill (after removing the drill chuck). This head has two spindles spaced 32 mm apart. This drill head only takes drills with 10 mm shanks. The kit included two drill bits with 10 mm shanks, sized 4 and 9 mm. The third black thing next to the drilling spindles is a stop for controlling the depth of drilling. A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

Harvey Performance Company focuses on manufacturing and metalworking solutions within the industrial sector. The company offers a range of products including ...

But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

Today I am going to explain the threading insert nomenclature which are used for threading on cnc machines. Of course there are plenty of different types of threading inserts and the…

Sandvik Coromant’s new CoroDrill 870 with exchangeable tip now relieves cnc machinists from big worries. Secure, high-precision interface between drill body and tip for extra stability for high accuracy. CoroDrill…

But with a smaller, 19 mm Forstner bit, I was able to drill a clean partial hole in the wood. This sort of drilling would be challenging even with a drill press, though it was something I could do with my old horizontal boring machine.

Jul 3, 2016 — I want to get a very high end drill press in the range of $2500 but the other part of me wonders if some kind of CNC wouldn't be better.

The following image is taken from Sandvik Coromant Turning Tools – General Turning Catalogue. The chart given below shows Feed & Cut Depth for Finish to Rough Machining Sandvik Coromant…

Sandvik Coromant is the world leading provider of metal cutting tools, tooling solutions to the metalworking industry. Sandvik Coromant has 8,000 employees and is represented in 130 countries. Sandvik Coromant offers world…

For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

The drill isn't regularly available in North America at this point, but the drill he sent me is a 110 volt version, but it came with a European 240 volt plug. I didn't want to cut the power cord off it just yet, so for the time being I taped a 120 volt power cord to the prongs of the European 240 volt plug.

A simple cnc lathe programming example. This cnc programming example will show how to program contours like chamfer taper grooves and arc. This cnc program will use two tools for…

The dill started out well enough, but I wasn't able to hold the drill down firmly enough and it jumped on me a few times.

My next test was to drill a series of overlapping 19 mm holes in a piece of wood. I used different spacers to guide the drill for the different positions, then moved it freehand to open the hole up into a slot. So this drill can be used as a sort of hand-held slot mortiser. Krzysiek also sent along some cabinet hardware, including two European style hinges. Using different spacers for the large hole and the two screw holes, I was able to position the holes precisely without marking them. That said, it was a few steps to do this, and I think a simple jig to drill through would do the job more conveniently. There is also a head with two spindles that can be screwed onto the front of the drill (after removing the drill chuck). This head has two spindles spaced 32 mm apart. This drill head only takes drills with 10 mm shanks. The kit included two drill bits with 10 mm shanks, sized 4 and 9 mm. The third black thing next to the drilling spindles is a stop for controlling the depth of drilling. A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

CNC machines are used for continuous and accurate job production. So to keep this a continuous process some sophisticated tooling is used like tools with the Inserts. The machining with…

Yes of course, Insert DCMT comes in variety of cutting radius to suit every ones needs. I like DCMT 11T308 and try to use it where ever possible because of…

And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

Our twin cutter rough boring heads can fit seamlessly into a lathe's tooling package. The twin cutter series has a unique design feature allowing different ...

Following cnc programming code shows the use of G72 bolt hole along an angle. As the names states G72 G-code makes it very easy to drill/bore/tap evenly spaced hole along…

I put a precision ground shaft in the chuck and spun it up. The shaft spun with very little wobble compared to a hand drill.

The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges.

So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

May 22, 2024 — May 8-11, CUFSAE competed in the Formula SAE Michigan competition with their newest race car, the Tiger 24.

These are the turning insert tolerances in different insert sizes, like the tolerance in turning insert length, height etc. I personally think that they are not of any use for a cnc machinist, because theses tolerances are minor.

The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10"

Kyocera is a leading global manufacturer of industrial cutting tools with a diversified product line for Turning Milling Drilling Threading Grooving Boring ContentsKyocera General Catalog 2011 – 2012 (English Version)Contents Kyocera General…

Krzysiek also sent along some cabinet hardware, including two European style hinges. Using different spacers for the large hole and the two screw holes, I was able to position the holes precisely without marking them. That said, it was a few steps to do this, and I think a simple jig to drill through would do the job more conveniently. There is also a head with two spindles that can be screwed onto the front of the drill (after removing the drill chuck). This head has two spindles spaced 32 mm apart. This drill head only takes drills with 10 mm shanks. The kit included two drill bits with 10 mm shanks, sized 4 and 9 mm. The third black thing next to the drilling spindles is a stop for controlling the depth of drilling. A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

Sandvik Coromant Online Product Catalogue is just not an online tooling and insert related data but it is more than that. Sandvik Coromant Online Catalogue website also has Free Feed,…

Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

#51 S.C. STUB DRILL 200 · Home · Drilling - Carbide · STUB LENGTH 135 DEG 4 FACET SELF-CENTERING POINT · WIRE GAUGE - UNCOATED.

In cnc lathe machine workshop undoubtedly you will see most of the component assignments with some kind of threading like internal threading, external threading, tapping etc. Of course threading on a…

From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities.

The Seco MDT (Multi Directional Turning) system uses single toolholder and insert for turning, profiling, and grooving in both axial and radial directions. For complex components with many grooves and profiles,…

The fourth letter of general turning insert nomenclature tells us about the turning insert hole shape and chip breaker type.

Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary.

1pc End Mill Rod Ball Milling Cutter Holder +2pcs Inserts Carbide R5/R6/R8R/10R/12.5 for Semi-Spherical Fine Milling Ball Cutter Ball-end Milling Insert ...

But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits.

There is also a head with two spindles that can be screwed onto the front of the drill (after removing the drill chuck). This head has two spindles spaced 32 mm apart. This drill head only takes drills with 10 mm shanks. The kit included two drill bits with 10 mm shanks, sized 4 and 9 mm. The third black thing next to the drilling spindles is a stop for controlling the depth of drilling. A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

Sandvik Coromant Insert Identifier App for iPhone, Android and blackberry helps you find which Sandvik Coromant solution is equivalent to the insert you currently use. It will guide you when you…

The idea of this drill is that with it's simple and sturdy rectangular housing, it can be slid along a guide for repeatably drilling holes in precise locations. The drill isn't regularly available in North America at this point, but the drill he sent me is a 110 volt version, but it came with a European 240 volt plug. I didn't want to cut the power cord off it just yet, so for the time being I taped a 120 volt power cord to the prongs of the European 240 volt plug. The housing shows how many millimeters the drill's axis is from each face of the drill. I put a precision ground shaft in the chuck and spun it up. The shaft spun with very little wobble compared to a hand drill. For my first test, I figured I'd try something that would be impossible with a hand drill. Drilling a partial hole with a Forstner bit into and angled piece of wood, with the center of the drill bit out of the wood. The dill started out well enough, but I wasn't able to hold the drill down firmly enough and it jumped on me a few times. But with a smaller, 19 mm Forstner bit, I was able to drill a clean partial hole in the wood. This sort of drilling would be challenging even with a drill press, though it was something I could do with my old horizontal boring machine. My next test was to drill a series of overlapping 19 mm holes in a piece of wood. I used different spacers to guide the drill for the different positions, then moved it freehand to open the hole up into a slot. So this drill can be used as a sort of hand-held slot mortiser. Krzysiek also sent along some cabinet hardware, including two European style hinges. Using different spacers for the large hole and the two screw holes, I was able to position the holes precisely without marking them. That said, it was a few steps to do this, and I think a simple jig to drill through would do the job more conveniently. There is also a head with two spindles that can be screwed onto the front of the drill (after removing the drill chuck). This head has two spindles spaced 32 mm apart. This drill head only takes drills with 10 mm shanks. The kit included two drill bits with 10 mm shanks, sized 4 and 9 mm. The third black thing next to the drilling spindles is a stop for controlling the depth of drilling. A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

Kyocera Cutting Tools and Inserts Catalog can be freely downloaded from Kyocera website http://americas.kyocera.com/kicc/cuttingtools/catalog.html. Following Kyocera catalogs are available, 2013 Milling Catalog 2012-2013 Turning Catalog 2013 Drilling Catalog You might…

1 Inch Diamond Hole Saw | Artisan Diamond Tools · $0 · $24.00 - Original price $24.00 · $24.00 · - $24.00 · $24.00 · | /.

Carbide inserts are designed in many different shapes/sizes to work their best in a variety of materials while machining, based on their insert strength. The basic shapes listed from strongest to…

But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

The first letter in general turning insert nomenclature tells us about the general turning insert shape, turning inserts shape codes are like C, D, K, R, S, T, V, W. Most of these codes surely express the turning insert shape like

For my first test, I figured I'd try something that would be impossible with a hand drill. Drilling a partial hole with a Forstner bit into and angled piece of wood, with the center of the drill bit out of the wood. The dill started out well enough, but I wasn't able to hold the drill down firmly enough and it jumped on me a few times. But with a smaller, 19 mm Forstner bit, I was able to drill a clean partial hole in the wood. This sort of drilling would be challenging even with a drill press, though it was something I could do with my old horizontal boring machine. My next test was to drill a series of overlapping 19 mm holes in a piece of wood. I used different spacers to guide the drill for the different positions, then moved it freehand to open the hole up into a slot. So this drill can be used as a sort of hand-held slot mortiser. Krzysiek also sent along some cabinet hardware, including two European style hinges. Using different spacers for the large hole and the two screw holes, I was able to position the holes precisely without marking them. That said, it was a few steps to do this, and I think a simple jig to drill through would do the job more conveniently. There is also a head with two spindles that can be screwed onto the front of the drill (after removing the drill chuck). This head has two spindles spaced 32 mm apart. This drill head only takes drills with 10 mm shanks. The kit included two drill bits with 10 mm shanks, sized 4 and 9 mm. The third black thing next to the drilling spindles is a stop for controlling the depth of drilling. A lot of European cabinet hardware uses 32 mm increments for where the holes are placed. so this double head could cut down on the number of steps for some things. I thought about ordering some more drills with 10 mm shanks to use wit this attachment, but this sort of drill is generally used in industry on multi-headed spindle boring machines, not by consumers. And the bits are much more expensive than regular drill bits. Krzysiek also sent a whole bunch of stainless steel parts. Some of these act as 32 mm and 64 mm spacers to offset the drill in 32 mm increments. But these are not as accurate as a plywood spacer would be. Getting the dimensions of bent sheet metal precise is difficult. There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask. He sent me a link to this polish video demonstrating the use of the drill. Here are two screenshots from the video. The video shows the drill used in a sort of box (which is white on the inside). The parts are lined up inside this box, and the box itself often acts as the guide for the drill. The rails with the holes can be used to index to different positions in 32 mm increments. Spacer blocks are used to raise 18 mm thick particle board workpieces to drill into the middle of the edges. And the odd-shaped brackets are for drilling the large holes for mounting Euro-hinges to correspond with where the mounting holes were drilled. From this I gather that the main idea of this drill is to help drill holes to attach mounting hardware in particle board. This is an application I never really thought much about. As a hobbyist woodworker, I never use particle board. Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles. For me, a glued dowel joint would make more sense, or to just put a screw through both pieces. But if what is made is to be flat packed and assembled on-site, gluing may not be practical, and screwed joints are hard to get just right, so it makes sense to spend more money on hardware to make it easier. The most interesting of these fasteners is the one at right. It's slid into a 10 mm hole, then another part is inserted through another hole from the side. It forms a right angle gearing so a screwdriver can be used from the side to turn the screw part on the end. Its by ITALIANA ferramenta, type "Target J10" But I work mostly with solid wood, so I'm not the intended target for this drill. But making furniture out of particle board is usually done on a larger scale, using either multi-headed automatic spindle boring machines, or CNC to drill the various holes. But this is a business I have little exposure to. But I imagine a hand-operated drill wouldn't be the best tool for manufacturing at scale. And at a smaller scale, just using regular screws or glued dowels might make more sense, unless the furniture needs to be shipped flat packed and assembled on site. But I imagine for some specialty applications, this drill would come into it's own. Or for cases where one or two extra holes need to be drilled in the workpieces that the automated machine can't get at, such as holes in the edges of the material, so that a final step would be to use this drill to drill an extra one or two holes. Or it could be used on-site when assembling the pre-cut and pre-drilled pieces, when it turns out a few extra holes are necessary. For me, for some specific problems, a drill like this is can do things that no other jig could, such as drilling these angled dowel holes into the end of a long piece of wood, where in the past I would have used my horizontal boring machine. It's the right tool for where I used my horizontal boring machine, such as this chair repair, or making marble run blocks. That said, I used my horizontal boring machine very infrequently and it was very heavy, which is why I sold it when we moved. I kind of regret having sold it, but I only used it about once a year. So that makes this drill very much a specialty tool. But I really like the idea of a drill like this. In fact, back in around 2007, I tried building a similar functioned horizontal boring jig using a guide clamped to a hand drill. But this setup lacked the necessary stiffness for how I wanted to use it, and I never used it again after I built it. Also, I built my horizontal boring machine two years later. And it does a fine job making slot mortises with a drill (better than drilling mortises with a drill press). And that opens up some possibilities. There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/ See also: 45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair To my Woodworking website

Here are cnc tool selection tips from a cnc machinist which will help you in cnc tool selection for your components in cnc machine workshop. Tool Selection for cnc machining…

Krzysiek included an assortment of cabinet fasteners. These are all for mounting pieces of particle board at a right angle to each other. And come to think of it, cabinets are all about mounting pieces to each other at right angles.

There were also two brackets that the drill fits into, and some rails with 4 mm holes at 32 mm increments. I was a bit at a loss as to how some of these should be used and emailed Krzysiek to ask.

Photo by Helical Solutions on October 14, 2024. May be an image of drill.

The Click-Change tool holder allows insert changes in just 5 seconds with the push of a button. Its cam-actuated lever provides a uniform insert clamping pressure of 8,000 psi. You are working…

General turning inserts come in variety of shapes and sizes. One thing is important to remember and understand is that every turning insert has a nomenclature associated with it. These general turning inserts nomenclature tells us lot about these general turning inserts.The turning inserts nomenclature is a list of some letters and numbers, but lot more data is hidden inside them.

Material, Recommended Speed (SFM) ; Aluminum and its Alloys, 200-300 ; Brass and Bronze (Ordinary), 150-300 ; Bronze (High Tensile), 70-150 ; Die Casting (Zinc Base) ...

Fanuc G76 Thread Cycle for Dummies explains Fanuc G76 threading cycle briefly. Fanuc G76 gives cnc machinist full control over thread turning. Fanuc G76 threading cycle has multiple parameters but the same…

45 degree jig build How impact drivers prevent screw cam-out (video only) Ryobi WDP 1850 Horizontal boring jig Why I don't use adrill press table Horizontal boring machine Sharpening drill bits Planer stand Steel pin chair repair

Chemically applied graphics on handlebar are scratch and peel resistant. Kit Includes: Micro grips made using soft, synthetic rubber compound in 1/3 waffle ...

There is some information about this drill on the web, but all of it in Polish, unfortunately. www.wiertarkaiskra.pl (polish)   Google translated to English www.facebook.com/WiertarkaIskra www.instagram.com/wiertarka_iskra/

The most popular turning insert in the industry is the 80 degree diamond (CNMG insert). Known for its balance of versatility and edge strength it is usually the first choice…