What are you supporting? 2 x 4s are big overkill for model rr.  Angles and bracing give you strength. I would have  to know total concept before mounting 2 x 4 on wall to support a model rr. If in a basement there are many more things to consider when closing off a wall as mentioned.

I agree, I wouldn't want to damage my walls with all those ram set nails just to support some benchwork. Cantilevering  benchwork off a 2 X 4 stud wall with a plate nailed to the ceiling joists and a sill screwed to the floor in a few spots worked fine on a garage layout for me, I can't recall how wide that layout was but don't think the benchwork  would need legs if it stay less than about 24 inches wide....DaveB

There are some variables that need to be considered Loren. If you are shooting into concrete block they will NOT hold. In poured concrete it needs to be sound, the nails should have least enough length to obtain solid embeddment along with a powder load that will ensure the same. They are color coded. The hardness of your concrete will determine the shot load. I would start with yellow driving a 2-1/2" nail. (assuming the 2x4's are on the flat). I would also put a healthy bead of construction adhesive such as PL400 on the 2x4. Being a carpenter by trade I believe it will be easier to frame the wall conventionally with top and bottom plates secured to the ceiling (framing) and the floor. Then you can attach bench work as described without worrying about the anchors. This method will be easier and less expensive. I hope this helps.

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By local code (Western Ma) we have to use wedge anchors to hold dimensional lumber to a concrete wall and that is what I would recommend.

Would this apply to a model railroad bench work also or is that for structural members only integral to the house, like a load bearing wall?

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Whatever you do, check with your local municapality to make sure ot conforms to local building codes, especially if electrical work is involved, it will have to be inspected or could void your home owners insurance in the event of any unforseen problems.

Something I never knew before this last renovation is that the wood stud should never touch the concrete. I went with two by fours tapered to a two by two at the bottom and attached to a two by two base plate which was two inches out from the wall and on poly. The plate was then held in place by ramset 2.5" nails. The void was then filled in with a vegy based spray foam as was the wall behind and around the studs which made them sturdy as a rock. The basement , a walkout ground level at the back, is now warm as toast.

If you are going to build a wall even with the 2 x 4's flat against the wall, I would fill the gap with insulation. One and a half inch foam would be best and cover it all with a vapor barrier of 4 mil plastic sheeting and then apply what ever wall covering you want over that. Not only will your basement be warmer, but a finished wall will add to resale value.

I did some research on the Ramset web site and they say that there is a bond created by the pressure and heat of the pin going into the concrete.   The 2 1/2 inch pin was suggested as they say to shoot one inch into the concrete.   This is typical poured concrete wall, not concrete block.   I just assumed the pin was simply held by friction, but they 'say' it is stronger than that.

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You would have a horizontal board on the wall, a board coming out from there to make the top of the layout, then a board down and back to an other horizontal board on the wall.

The idea of a header and a footer don't uhh... appeal to me at this point as I have already put a drop ceiling in place and don't particularly like the idea of redoing the entire perimeter of the drop ceiling to extend the studs all the way to the floor joists.

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Was wondering if anyone has used Rimshot(or other) .22 shell fired nails to put 2x4 studs on concrete walls.   I hope to minimize legs this way.   The benchwork at this time is planned to be between 8 and 16 inches deep, simple 1x4 or less framework to support 2" foam subroadbed.   Was hoping to cantilever off the 2x4s to hold most of the weight, but an occaisional leg wouldn't bother me too much.  Plan on going around the walls with a couple large free standing peninsulas.

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I am a structural engineer. Framing cantilevered from a wall creates a prying force at the connection, meaning whatever attachment is used is constantly in tension, trying to pull out of the wall. That prying force increases as the layout weight increases (plaster scenery, operators leaning on the benchwork, etc).

Anyone done this type of connection to the walls?   Have probably 100 foot of walls to attach to, so don't really want to drill and use Tapcons...lot of holes to drill that way.  I just don't know of how good the holding power in a vertical wall is.   Most uses of .22 nails I've seen is into the floor where there wouldn't be much pulling of it.

Have you considered a horizontal ledger board (probably a 2x4) anchored to the wall to support the back of the subroadbed with legs at the front or angle iron brackets anchored to the ledger if you need to cantilever the benchwork?

technically it is legal to use a breaker as a switch, but not a good idea since they wear out faster and you are putting your in hand in the panel every time

This is all funny to a point since I sell Ramset products at my work.   Just never had any info on their use.   Definately think the construction adhesive is a good idea.   Just wondering if I need a vapor barrier for the next owner of the house if they use the studs to make interior walls.

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When wiring the wall plugs around the perimeter of the room, I'd suggest you put them on a separate circuit breaker so when not using them you can turn them all off by simply throwing the breaker.  I have my DCC system plugged into mine in the train room and this adds another layer of protection from power surges when you're not using the equipment.

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and some concrete anchors, you can just unscrew them and take them back out. ramset guns dont always hold and can blow out big chunks of concrete

Tapcons are much more reliable then those remington nail guns. For the best "do it right" scenario, the wedge anchors listed above work fantastically.

Edit: Using powder driven fasteners requires a special installation tool. Working in a confined basement space, empty the house and wear ear protection. It will be deafening.

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Don't forget to install outlets six feet apart. Since you have a suspended ceiling you can run the wiring down along side the studs from the top. I've done this myself. You'll have to use a shallow box made for this purpose. If that's too much of a hassle, install the outlets on the surface using the Wire Mold products. This way goes faster than the other, but in the wall is neater looking. Put the outlets in! You won't regret having the power under the layout when working under it. Lights, soldering and such stuff. Besides you'll be up to electrical code also. If you aren't sure of your abilities get a qualified electrician to do it for you.

Tapcon screws are designed to use in concrete.  you will need a 'hammer drill with masonary bit' to drill into the concrete, I pre drill the studs with a wood bit first.  Drive the tapcon screws with a cordless driver and your done.  Takes a little longer than Ramsots but they hold better and you can take them out a lot easier if you need to.  You can get them at Home depot.

When I finished my basement train room I used a conventional stud wall along the concrete foundation wall.  The base plate of the wall was pressure treated lumber because it was in direct contact with the concrete basement floor.  This is a code requirement in our area.  The stud wall allowed me to install insulation and a vapor barrier in the perimeter wall before installing the drywall.  For the around-the-wall benchwork, I attached 2 x 2's with lag screws top and bottom into the 2 x 4 wall studs.  The benchwork, which is 24" wide, was cantilevered off the 2 x 2 with an angle brace.  The benchwork in absolutely solid.

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Bear in mind that some of the poorest quality concrete I've seen is in residential basements, my own included. The concrete is inconsistent, has not been consolidated when wet in the forms so it tends to have voids and "soft" spots. Even if the fasteners have been properly installed in the concrete with proper embedment depth an no cone of spalled concrete, I wouldn't trust the concrete to hold them consistently.

Seems to me nobody has ever tried to pull a Rimshot nail out of a poured concrete basement wall. I tried after I split a 2 X 4. I needed a 3 foot crow bar and all the weight I could get on the end. One nail, the head broke off the other I couldn't budge at all. I wound up breaking is off.

There are also issues with the wood framing connections, keeping the anchor head from pulling through the wood grain, making a rigid connection between he anchored ledger and cantilevered joists. A host of hidden problems exist. You won't be able to make the benchwork as stable as if it were on legs.

By local code (Western Ma) we have to use wedge anchors to hold dimensional lumber to a concrete wall and that is what I would recommend.