272. Solid Carbide TrueSize® Reamer. © M.A. Ford. All rights reserved.

I have been running the sgs S-carbs too. They are great. We took one in on a test about four months ago and it is still running in the machine right now. I cant tell you how much material this thing has removed. We use it "ONLY" for roughing however. I am sure that if we were trying to use it as a finisher it would not be pretty at this point.

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The big question that I haven't really gotten an answer on is whether the helix angle makes a huge difference? Because that's the only real difference between the two endmills, the 45 gives a burr, and the 30 doesn't seem to.

Onsrud end mills work great for me. I've found they have the best selection for corner radius and necked length end mills and they cut awesome.

So right now we're running that 1/2" at 5000RPM, 45ipm, 0.100" depth. You're saying we should at least up the RPM's? I've been trying to work on dropping our cycle times as much as possible, a little bit at a time, so any improvement helps.

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Although you’ll often use a hole saw in a handheld drill, sawing large holes is a tough job, so use your most powerful drill. Besides power, the drill should have an auxiliary handle, as hole saws don’t act like drill bits. They have a tendency to “catch,” giving your wrist a nasty twist. It can even yank the drill right out of your hand while the spinning drill handle crashes into anything in its path. An auxiliary handle lessens the chance of losing your grip.

Whenever it’s an option, use a hole saw in a drill press. A drill press ensures that the hole is straight and enables you to clamp the workpiece down securely. The drill press’s handle gives you total control over the pressure you’re applying, and you can easily adjust the drill press to run at the proper speed.

sorry, i couldnt resist, we have several Hurcos here as well, not bad cnc machines, just not very rigid for applying HSM techniques.(IMHO)

Dec 1, 2020 — But a bigger diameter end mill also requires the RPM of the spindle to drop to maintain the same surface speed of the tool's teeth against the ...

we've got 8000RPM max. I'm looking for the "right" speed/feed for these operations. Maybe we're running these 45 degree helix cutters too slow, and that's why they're kicking up a burr while the 30 degree ones aren't?

Best Affordable Small Desktop 5 Axis CNC Mill Machine HY 3040 for Aluminum Milling for Sale · product dimension 715(H)*700(L)*610(W) mm · effective work area 300* ...

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When you’re cutting holes that need to look tidy on both sides, clamp a sacrificial backer board under the workpiece to prevent blowout (splintering on the exit side). If you’re at the drill press, a backer board also serves to protect your drill press table.

Using 2-d highspeed toolpaths, i can go .030 stepover, 1.500 deep, 6k, 85-100ipm, but that keeps the spindle load @ around 100%.

A cheap kit might seem like a great deal, but you get what you pay for. The hole saw teeth dull very quickly and the saws are often shallow, limiting the thickness of the material you can drill through. Go for a higher quality option if you can.

As a hole saw is cutting, there’s nowhere for the sawdust to effectively exit the kerf. So it gets packed into the teeth, causing slow cutting, heat, burning and premature dulling. Drill a couple of 1/2-in. clearance holes to give the sawdust a way out. To get the clearance holes in the right place, start the pilot bit and let the teeth cut in about 1/16 in. Drill clearance holes through the workpiece, just inside the kerf.

I use a Hanita 3/4" 3 flute variable pitch at 8400 rpm. 200 ipm .50" doc. I prefer polished uncoated solid carbide to TICN coated in aluminum.

When you need to drill a hole bigger than an inch in diameter or so, a hole saw is the right tool for the job. However, hole saws have a well-deserved reputation for being no fun to use. If the prospect of using one conjures memories of an ice pack on your wrist and the smell of burning wood, relax and read on.

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Climb-Cutting is when the feed direction of the workpiece is the same as the rotation of the cutter. The term climb-cut comes from the fact that the router bit ...

My favorite are the SGS S-Carb 3 flute endmills. You can really Haul with these roughing, and then come back with a slower finishing pass.

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I only have 6k spindles for the little Haas TM-1 and TM-2 here, but 6061 with a 3/4 cutter x 1.625 FL can go 6k, 85-100 ipm, .125 deep, .375 wide.

I prefer just a high-polish hi-rake solid carbide 3 flute. Like the sgs's or maford 138 series. Plowing full width will give you that burr alright. Leave more for a finish pass maybe, make sure your climb milling. 8000rpm, ahhh somewhere between 50-100imp. :/

When possible, drill from both sides. This does two things. First, it helps prevent blowout. Second, you don’t end up with the cutout plug stuck in the hole cylinder. Start cutting from one side, stopping as soon as the pilot bit comes out the other side. Next, insert the pilot bit in the hole on the other side of the workpiece and finish the cut with the hole saw.

He made the finish pass bigger, but it's still leaving the same size burr as before. Which leads us to believe it has little or nothing to do with the finish pass. Our machinist is convinced it has everything to do with the helix angle of the cutter, could there be any truth to that?

For aluminum you should be at least 1000 SFM so for a 1/2" endmill that would be 7640 PRM. So, run the MAX RPM of your machine. I only run slower with long reach tools. For 1/2 endmills, we run 12K RPM all the time.

I prefer just a high-polish hi-rake solid carbide 3 flute. Like the sgs's or maford 138 series. Plowing full width will give you that burr alright. Leave more for a finish pass maybe, make sure your climb milling. 8000rpm, ahhh somewhere between 50-100imp. :/

CrazyDrill Cool XL line offers a solid carbide deep-hole drill in the diameter range of 1.0 mm to 6.0 mm for drilling depths up to 40 x d. All drills are coated ...

Together, we are the strongest Mastercam community on the web with over 56,000 members, and our online store offers a wide selection of training materials for all applications and skill levels.

Look at Helical solutionss, we run 95% aluminum and they are the best for the money that I have seen, also niagara 3fl elites.

A good hole saw kit is a staple in every pro's arsenal. Check out these great tips to drill faster, cleaner and safer with your hole saws.

So the high helix should actually be better for aluminum? And the coating isn't so good for running lighter loads like we usually do?

I don't know if we changed the speeds and feeds much when we switched tools, but I just figured I'd ask here and see what your thoughts were.

On a side note, what kind of speeds and feeds should we be running at with aluminum like this? Without too much of a machining background, the cutting formulas don't make a ton of sense to me, especially if I don't know what kind of chip size/load is best.

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Sounds like the tools you are using are more for stainless. Garr 842M series and IscarEB3??? are high helix polished and would be a better bet.

Like any other cutting tool, a hole saw will get dull with use. If your hole saw cuts slowly or starts to smoke, it’s likely dull and needs replacing. If you’re adept at sharpening, you can give it a shot, but a new hole saw makes life much easier.

Our Smart Feed and Speeds wizard will recommend the best cutting speed, feed rate, and carbide grades for Milling, Turning, Drilling and Grooving.

For holes one inch in diameter or less, a spade, auger or Forstner bit is a better choice than a hole saw. These bits are far less likely to catch and twist your arm, and there’s no plug to pry out, just wood shavings. So start building your hole saw kit with sizes that are larger than one inch.

I agree, Ticn is a ferrous cutting coating. If you MUST get coated get ZRn of Ti Diboride, otherwise go polished, high helix!

We make alot of aluminum parts as well, I like to use DataFlute brand 3fl. emills. They work well with no coating !! For HSM we will setup on machines with much higher spindle speeds, and actually have the HSM option.

Mar 25, 2008 — Its basically the same thing as running far too small of chipload on a climb cut, you are rubbing and burning up the outside of your cutter, ...

Hole saws are often tasked with cutting through studs and joists, which are typically pine, spruce or Douglas fir. All of these  species contain lots of pitch and resin, which build up on the hole saw’s teeth. This buildup adds friction, slows cutting and increases heat. This excess heat causes the teeth to dull very quickly. Cleaning off the pitch after use greatly extends the life of hole saws. You can buy specially formulated cleaners, such as CMT Formula 2050 Blade & Bit Cleaner ($18 for an 18-ounce bottle) at home centers. Or, do a quick search online to find plenty of homemade solutions.

We've been having some issues lately with getting nasty burrs on everything we cut (aluminum, 6061 or 2024). Our machinist has been using the TICN coated carbide end mills, usually 3-flute and 45 degree, and they've been leaving a nasty burr compared to using a 30-degree 3-flute standard carbide cutter, which wasn't leaving a burr at all. On the one we're taking about a 0.100" depth of cut using the whole diameter of the cutter, but there's a 0.005" finish pass at the end. Similar situation with the other one today, which is a 0.025" depth cut with a 0.003" finish pass at the end.

My favorite are the SGS S-Carb 3 flute endmills. You can really Haul with these roughing, and then come back with a slower finishing pass.

A quality hole saw kit costs $50 to $200, depending on the number of hole saw sizes and the type of teeth (bimetal, carbide or diamond; bimetal teeth are sufficient for most work). If you can’t afford to buy the whole kit at once, don’t worry. Most manufacturers sell individual hole saws and arbors. Build your kit one saw at a time as needed, sticking with one brand so you can use the dedicated arbor for new hole saws. That way, you won’t end up with odd-sized hole saws that you’ll never use.

Sounds like the tools you are using are more for stainless. Garr 842M series and IscarEB3??? are high helix polished and would be a better bet.