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Too slow cutting speeds lead to edge build-up and blunting, while too fast results in quicker insert wear, deformation and poor finish. Tool feed calculator F.

2018218 — Basic Guidelines · Low notes will generally be flat. High notes are typically sharp. · Open notes (such as middle and high C's and C#'s) are ...

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There is some elitism in the flute world regarding the choice of finish because the metal used in the flute affects the quality of its sound.  That’s why you’ll never see a professional flutist play a nickel-plated flute.  For a beginner, though, nickel is a perfectly acceptable choice.  It also requires less maintenance than silver, which makes it even more appropriate for young beginners.  Like a bicycle, if your flute student continues beyond the rudimentary stages of study, s/he is going to “outgrow” the instrument and need a new one (not in terms of size, but in terms of skill level).  It’s at that point that you should consider other finish options.

The flute I currently play is a Muramatsu that I purchased used, because that was all I could afford.  It was about half the price of a new one and had been used by one other owner for two and half years.  However, before I bought it, I took it to my teacher, Jacob Berg, who graciously agreed to look it over and render his opinion free of charge (although my dad did offer to pay him something for his time, which is always a good idea).  Decades later, I’m still playing the same flute and have had absolutely no issues with it.  It IS possible to get a good used flute; I know, because I’ve done it.

However, if you are looking at a used or a gift flute, you may run into a more advanced model with open (“French”) holes in some of its keys.  If you can, at this stage, avoid the open holes.  It can be a major source of frustration for some beginners.  If not, there are “plugs,” which are usually small pieces of cork or plastic capped with a silver disc, you can insert in the key holes.  I’m not a big fan of them.  (I can explain why elsewhere.)  For now, suffice it to say, if you can get closed holes, get them.  If you need plugs, use them.  Better to utilize these options than to have a beginner quit from frustration.

Solid silver—This option allows for the best quality of sound out of the three I’m listing here, but I’m not sure I would recommend it for a beginner, most especially for a young beginner. While you don’t have to worry about it wearing off or chipping, it is a softer metal, more prone to scratches and other damage.  Even if your beginner is careful and responsible, kids are kids and stuff happens, you know?

(By the way, if the beginning flutist is so small that s/he cannot reach the keys with a normal/straight headjoint, then I would also be tempted to ask if the flutist is even big enough to hold the weight of the flute in playing position for an extended period of time.  Perhaps it is too soon to begin to study the flute.  It is something to consider.)

New v. Used:  While new flutes are pretty and shiny, there is often nothing wrong with purchasing a used flute.  Flutes are like cars or any other machine.  They often outlast their original owners, but things can break down from time to time.  If you are considering purchasing a previously-owned flute, just like a car, take it to a trusted flutist or instrument repair person and have them help you check it out before you buy it.

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This website is created by Amy Inman Barnes, who has been studying, playing, and teaching the flute for decades.  (She is not telling how many decades.)  It was started as a labor of love for an instrument to which she has devoted a significant portion of her life, and she hopes you enjoy reading it as much as she’s enjoyed putting it together.

DRILL SIZE. DECIMAL. EQUIVALENT. TAP SIZE. 80 .0135. 79 .0145. 64 .0156. 78 ... 50 .0700. 2-56, 64. 49 .0730. 48 .0760. 5 .0781. =3. 11. 32. 64. 47 .0785. 3-48.

Brand:  This is one place where you usually get what you pay for, so if you’re willing to invest a little more money, this is where you should spend it.  There is nothing more frustrating for a beginner than a flute that doesn’t work correctly, so you want to make sure you get a GOOD one.  In my teaching experience, I have found the Yamaha student models are the best, although I learned to play on a Gemeinhardt and was very pleased with its performance, as well.  (For any of my readers who may be skeptical about my motives, I should say at this point that I do NOT have any affiliate relationship with any flute manufacturer, so I don’t earn a dime by recommending these brands.)  Armstrong and Emerson have been reliable brands for my students.  Selmer is also a very popular brand among students, and for the most part, they are decent flutes.  I’ve had less favorable experience with other brands.  These are not the only brands, by any means, but they are the ones with which I have had the most experience as a teacher and a music store salesclerk.

We have a range of high-feed milling tools, including indexable, solid, and exchangeable head, that enable you to take advantage of this fast process.

Good question.  Let’s see if I can help you narrow the choices a bit.  There are 4 main things to consider: brand, new v. used, finish, and features.

I've been thinking about one of these, but do I need to use a second drill bit to make the hole deep enough for my screws?

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Nickel plate—This is the cheapest of the choices, and at this stage, there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. Be aware, however, that one downside to plating is that it can come off.  Through constant friction or even with particularly acidic body chemistry, I have seen plating wear down and/or chip off over time.

With all of that being said, if some kind relative or generous friend of the family walks up and offers you a solid silver or gold flute as a gift, obviously, you’re not going to turn it down.  It just requires extra care and vigilance to keep it looking and working its best.

Silver plate—This is the next most affordable finish. Many student models offer this option.  It’s a step up from the nickel, but it is less expensive, and perhaps a bit more durable, than the solid silver flute, simply because silver is a “softer,” more pliable metal.  However, be aware that, as with all plating, it can wear off over time.  Silver also needs to be polished regularly to deter tarnish from building up.

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