Angular milling

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I’ve used the hard wood and soft wood styles above myself. Have to say I preferred the soft wood ones. Just found them easier to work with. They’ve both held up well over time. I used wood glue to secure them instead of epoxy. For me this has worked out really well. First attempt was a disaster. Had to remove, fill and try again. @Psychotiller has a fantastic how-to on the other forum (not sure if it migrated here yet) on how to install the inserts deftly. Would highly recommend checking out if you’re about to do for the first time.

As @Sender said, I had good luck with these, but don’t use them in a fiberglass deck (or fiberglass layers) without epoxy on the perimeter of the hole.

On that note, epoxy locking in inserts is good, but of course be careful to keep the epoxy off the inner threads! In order to help with this, just a smear of epoxy in the perimeter of the (properly sized) hole and let it reach the b stage cure so it is a little more tacky before placement. A small dab does a lot. If you put too much, you WILL get some in the threads.

Form millmachine

Some hard wood threaded inserts have self tapping barbs that will go on the bottom so I think that’s where a lot of confusion comes from (like drywall anchors). The slot on the thread is meant to be used with a specific manufacturer drill bit that will drive the insert without marring any surrounding wood. Most people just use a flathead screwdriver but make sure the head is NO WIDER than the insert itself. You can also use a hex head bolt that is meant to fit that specific thread pattern, tighten it into the insert, and then insert the insert/bolt combo into your hole and ratchet it tight.

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Profile milling

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I feel like a lot of different styles work, but the right size hole is paramount. I always recommend doing a test hole in some scrap wood that you have around that is (hopefully) close to the same density as the deck you are using, or at least relatively close.

Our decks flex and move. No mater what material they are made of. For this reason, I recommend soft wood. Trampa/composite decks might be the only exception but I have yet to test one of those decks. The loose teeth grab more without stripping.

End milling

Even though they’re self tapping do you still drill a hole for them and then epoxy them in? Or do you just drill a small divot and screw them in from there?

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I use soft wood ones however i fined that if you apply to much torque they tend to crack at the top so. be careful with them.

I do drill a full hole the length of the insert and use a drill bit collar to make sure I don’t drill all the way through the deck. Just put the insert right next to your bit and find the place where your collar needs to be. If i remember correctly, the trampa 15 ply is about 10mm thick. my insert is 6mm long. I drilled in about 7/8mm and it worked beautifully.

I actually had a different experience with the ez-lok threaded inserts went with the recommended size and it cause the wood to bulge up and stripped 2 of them trying to get them in. I the drilled the hole to the next size up and it was a lot easier to screw them in. I also used a socket cap screw with a nut I between the insert and the screw head as I have seen the screw head get stuck to the insert.

Straddle milling

Just a tip of general info that will serve anybody well: when picking a drill bit to fit a screw, the diameter of the drill bit should be equal to or barely smaller than the diameter of the screw’s shaft (if you stripped all the threads off)

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Face milling

Practice on a piece of wood first. I use loctite 648 btw. You can sort of see in this picture the point at which I apply the loctite. see the insert is halfway in.

Drill a pilot hole the size of the shaft of the insert (the part without threads). If you don’t have the exact size drill bit, go a size down. The idea is to get only the threads to cut into the wood and no wood get smashed or compressed.

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There is actually 2 inserts on that screw. the top one is being used to push and screw he bottom one in and when the bottom once is flush with the deck, you just unscrew it and violla, insert inserted. Saw this on a @Psychotiller thread so just stole the idea blatantly

use these on my trampa. never had a problem. the slotted side goes in first and once the slots are in, i apply loctite red on the thread and screw hem all the way in. the correct drill bit is 4.5mm for the 3mm inserts.

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You can differentiate these 2 by the depth of the slot and whether the slotted end is tapered like its meant to go in a hole.

Form milltools

SLOTTED SELF TAPPING THREADED INSERTS PLASTIC WOOD ALLOY M2 M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10. M8 x 15 - M8 Thread Size, 15mm length, 1.50mm External Thread Pitch. M10 x 18 - M10 Thread Size, 18mm length, 1.50mm External thread Pitch.

Here we go! Different schools of thought on this, and some decks (harder or softer wood) work a little better with various inserts.

Formmilling cutter

If you don’t have a tap set, get the m2-m5 kit on Amazon. It is like $12, and really comes in handy for all sorts of stuff.

Been using these tidy little inserts I got from aliexpress lately and figured I’d take a few photos and share how I’ve been doing it! Step 1: Drill the bolt holes through the enclosure. I use a 5mm bit as I want to use m5 enclosure screws. I...

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There is scattered info on the builders forum about these, but nothing concise. What threaded inserts do you use on what board and why?

I prefer to use the stainless ones though. EZ Lock inserts are a pretty nifty little system too. @mmanerjust got some of those and had some good luck with them.

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Am I the only one who just used M5 wood inserts that bite into the wood so hard, that even without glue removal is impossible?