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I have a mill so I would not bother with it. If I were you I would get an 8-10mm steel rod and practice before attempting it on the motor.

Be advised that the shaft is case-hardened steel. This will complicate your efforts unless it’s a flat spot you’re going for.

This kind of stuff is where my trade skills come into play. I know I can do it, I just want to hear the experiences of others before I attempt it.

do you need an actual keyway or would a flat spot do? I’ve done both with a dremel and a cutting wheel, but that method doesn’t result in a a closed oval hole of a keyway, you end up with a slot that goes out to the end. Doing a flat spot is usually enough to get a flat bottomed grub screw to hang onto the shaft.

and also: put the motor in in a sandwich bag and poke the shaft through a hole in it, and blue tape around the hole to keep the bag out of the work area. This will keep hot metal from getting inside the motor.

I’m happy with an open hole at the end, as I would use loctite anyway, but the motor pulleys i bought have keyways so I figured I may as well use em

I did this for my sk3’s using a Dremel tool. Been working perfectly for three years and counting. Just remember to tape over any openings in the motor before you start, to keep out metal shavings. Edit: If @longhairedboy says so, then it is so.

Tips and tricks would be appreciated i will do my own in a couple of weeks, but thought it would be best to gather some intel first.

I recently had to extend a keyway, just use a Dremel and go slow. It’s really easy. I have pretty minimal experience on the whole front, just welding back in high school.

using a cutting wheel on a dremel at reasonable cutting speed (two thirds up on the dial) will result in a lot of heat going into the shaft, so stop and blow on it every few minutes, you don’t want it to get toooo hot, not good for the motor.

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